1979 Yellow Lotus Eclat: My project thread

[silverfrost]

If they humb,  just more simple to replace,  they are cheap items and do not take long to change,  

[soldave]

I think I know the answer here but just want to check. Over the winter my new (6-month old) cam cover gasket is possibly not sealing as it should. This has led to smoke from that area of the engine/manifold area. I've had the bolts loosened and adjusted which accounted for a little oil spillage, and have had the car warmed up idling and then for a short drive. It's still smoking quite a bit though.

Strange (to me) thing is that the smoke appears to start from the underside of the manifold, and comes up in the gap between number 2 and 3 manifold headers. With the engine off and cooling it's not a constant stream of smoke, but 5 seconds then smoke appears, then another 5-10 seconds and it comes again. Like oil is dripping.

Apart from what you can see in the the pics, there's no other oil I can see. From my wonderfully limited description and poor pics, would your money be on things still leaking, or just excess oil on the manifold that needs burning off?

[TAR]

I would wipe the oil from the places you have photographed. Take it for a drive and see it its returned. 

[soldave]

3 hours ago, TAR said:

I would wipe the oil from the places you have photographed. Take it for a drive and see it its returned. 

Well this might have been one of the simpler mysteries I've had with the car. Went outside to a small puddle of oil under the car and the top of the manifold in the cylinder 2 and 3 area quite wet. Took the cam cover off and it it didn't look in shocking position, although the ends looked a little too squashed down. Only 8 months or so old but probably better to replace. Now I traced back my posts in various places, and I believed, rightly or wrongly, that with the rubber gaskets RTV wouldn't be needed. Wondering if that's not the case though. So my choices as it looks are:

1. Replace with rubber gasket, apply with no RTV, hope for the best (although am guessing with current oil leak a simple replacement gasket won't work)
2. Replace with rubber gasket, use RTV (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Gasket-Maker-RTV-silicon-high-temp-sealer-instant-sealant-water-oil-resist/332189765903) on Both sides of the gasket.
3. Replace with cork sealant (although given my art & crafts skill, getting me an craft scalpel and punch could result in me losing fingers!). No RTV needed.

Edited May 12, 2019 by soldave

[black eclat]

Exhaust cam cover leaking is an age old issue with the early style cam covers. The seal slips out of position so easy during fitting and you typically do know about it until the day after your inaugural run.

However there is a partial solution. With the inclined engine design, the oil pools in the exhaust cam box and whilst the car is in motion, its not really an issue. The problem starts when the engine is stopped. All the oil collects in the cam box above the cam cover gasket line and hot oil needs not be told twice about a poor seal.

Out it leaks all over the hot exhaust manifold.

If that does not catch fire, then it will smoke like a train on the next start up until its all burnt away.

What I have done to alleviate this issue is to drill out 2 holes in the the cam box in chamber 1 and 4 as per the pictures. This means that the oil will drain away to a much lower level in the cam box, all below the cam cover gasket line.

This is how bad it got on my Eclat.

You can see the pilot hole drilled in the casting. This was increased to the full size of the casting plug.

No. 1 Chamber.

No 4 Chamber

Only downsize to this modification is that the cam box needs to be removed and its not so easy to do with the engine in the car. Its not impossible but easier with the engine out.

Thought I would share this for all to see. 😀

 

[EXCEL V8]

Have you had your engine running since the mods?  Do the drillings leave enough of an "oil bath" for start-up?

Pete

[black eclat]

6 hours ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Have you had your engine running since the mods?  Do the drillings leave enough of an "oil bath" for start-up?

Pete

Hi Pete, covered 16,340 miles since the drilling of the casting. Some of those miles were in Spa, some in The Alps and some at home in Mondello.😀

I examined the Inlet cam box and saw that it had its drains located so that its orientations allowed most of the oil to drain back to the sump. But the exhaust cam box has the drains in the same location but the orientation of the exhaust cam box meant the oil accumulated in the cover. 

So I did not see that it was necessary for an oil bath in the exhaust cam box only for startups. 

However, I stand to be corrected.

[soldave]

Thanks for the advice, gents. I had my first attempt at making a cork gasket today. Whilst i got the shape and layout OK, it came out too big on both sides. I did trace the rubber gasket exactly but maybe that one has got stretched out of position. I'll do a few measurements tomorrow and make another one.

[EXCEL V8]

2 hours ago, black eclat said:

Hi Pete, covered 16,340 miles since the drilling of the casting. Some of those miles were in Spa, some in The Alps and some at home in Mondello.😀

I examined the Inlet cam box and saw that it had its drains located so that its orientations allowed most of the oil to drain back to the sump. But the exhaust cam box has the drains in the same location but the orientation of the exhaust cam box meant the oil accumulated in the cover. 

So I did not see that it was necessary for an oil bath in the exhaust cam box only for startups. 

However, I stand to be corrected.

Thanks Michael - that's really good to know.  I'm in the early stages of building my engine - any good mods will be incorporated!

Pete

[soldave]

Don't want to tempt fate, but after getting a proper size cork gasket cut out and fitted, and after the excess oil on the manifold burned off (killing off any local wildlife in the process!) it may be sorted out. I spotted a tiny whiff of smoke as I pulled back into the house, but may have been as I stopped on a slope and there is still a bit of oil near the warmer parts of the engine.

Fingers crossed it's all sorted though. On to the next problem!!!

[soldave]

Quite a bit going on so I'd better get into it. Since May I had a really enjoyable trip to Lotus in the Peak. Some beautiful driving roads and great to see so many Lotus models together in one place. The weather held all day too, which was a bonus.

Then earlier this week I was lucky enough to be selected to take part in the Lotus Evija launch, as they wanted a yellow example of Lotus models throughout the ages. Bit of a trek to get there: 190 miles and a 4-hour drive each way, including one hour stop-almost stop-stop in London traffic. On the motorway at a steady 70mph the temp gauge stayed at 90 degrees and sometimes just starting to go a little over before dropping down to 90 again. Might be the voltage stabiliser but might be the engine getting a little too warm for my liking. Think I might invest in a new thermostat and gasket to make sure I'm covered there. But it was the London traffic on a beautifully sunny (and hot) day that had me watching the temp gauge almost constantly. Radiator fans were on constantly and the needle stayed just a needlewidth above 90; pretty pleasing though.

Got to the venue and spotted a few other Lotus parked up, got into position, let out a sigh and turned the car off. Tried to turn the radiator fan off but the switch (the spare Lucas switch that's in my centre console) didn't really want to turn off. Pulled the switch out of the console so I could remove a wire from the back of it, and that's when the fun started! By fun I mean smoke. Smoke suddenly started pouring out of the centre console area and from the engine bay. PANIC!!! Grabbed the fire extinguisher but in this case there was smoke without fire (see what I did there?!). Alas, the radiator wiring between battery and switch had basically become ash. I know, I know... a much better way would be to use relays etc. I know this now and have worked out a much better and safer setup (see diagram below)

To be fair, everyone there was awesome in helping out, both Lotus staff and other owners. They found where I could get a few things to get the fans working again and I set off on foot. Missed the Lotus drive around London as I needed to make some repairs, but I hardwired the fan to the battery so that I could get home. The car covered another 190 miles and other than nearly becoming an inferno just as I pulled up outside the launch event (still embarrassed about it now), the car didn't really skip a beat.

The long trip seems to have taken a bit of a toll on it though, and there are a few things I need to look into.

1. Fan wiring. Car's not going anywhere until that's all set up in a proper manner. I hate car electrics but need to embrace my hatred.
2. Thermostat and gasket. Should be a relatively quick switch once I get some extra coolant, but nothing's ever simple!
3. Headlight vacuum system. Prior to this week, the vacuum system was on point and headlights would stay down for 12-13 hours (i.e. factory spec). On arriving in London, it's decided to start losing vacuum after a couple of hours. A simple vacuum system but it's going to be a long process to diagnose as it's such a small leak.
4. Rear diff seems to be leaking a little more than I'd like. Replaced the output shaft seal on the passenger side a few years back but need to have a look this weekend to see where this one is coming from.

So good times, but plenty to do now.

[soldave]

My parts came in today so I got the old thermostat off and did some testing. Not incredibly scientific but it does seem that at the same temperature the new thermostat is much more open than the old one. Hopefully that'll help with cooling.

Got the driveshaft off and although the oil seal looks in decent condition (the o-ring less so) the bearing was a little loud. So I've got replacements and will just have to get a garage's help in getting the old collar and bearing off and new one on.

[soldave]

The Eclat is back... almost! Rear diff oil seal, bearing and o-ring changed, thermostat replaced, and fans rewired. A few things I've noticed whilst I've been working on the electrics today.

1. I suck at anything electrical. I mean, I really suck! know my crimping tool isn't the best but most of my woes today were caused by crimps just falling off as I was doing other things.
2. The cooling panel, whilst stock and supposedly to redirect 1/3 of the airflow to the engine and 2/3 out of the vents, is a pain! It takes up so much space at the front of the engine bay. Until I've confirmed everything is good after driving then it'll stay off. Debating whether I'll put it back or not.
3. The lower radiator pipe seems to be rubbing against the power steering belt. I'll try to rotate it a little so that there's clearance, but I'm wondering if this pipe is completely stock. Have a look at the pics below and let me know what you think (don't judge me by my intake hose!). I can't see a SJ equivalent for the metal part of the pipe, but it's possible I'm just not finding it..
4. A new otter switch and my dodgy wiring both seem to be holding up, with the fans being operated automatically, but with a manual switch in the cabin too. Interestingly, the otter switch closes and fans come on when the temp on the temp gauge is about a needlewidth over 90, which makes me think it's readying 8-10 degrees over. Maybe the voltage stabiliser that needs replacing.

Need to do a shakedown drive tomorrow after the car's cooled and I've adjusted that lower radiator hose, but looking good so far.

Edited August 3, 2019 by soldave

[soldave]

Double birthdays this past week, as my Eclat turned 40 years old and on the same day my cat, Xander, turned one year old. Complete coincidence but love it! Took a couple of shots and even let him have a quick wander on the bonnet (after giving him strict orders to keep claws in!).

Nice little drive today too with no issues, but wanted you to take a quick look at this video. Does this sound like front suspension or bushings to you? I've replaced some of the lower bushings when I replaced trunnions and anti-roll bar but it could be something I missed. I do know the bushings on the top of the dampers have seen better days though. When I push down on the rear (new dampers and springs two years ago) there's virtually no noise.

Oh, and just as an explanation, this video was taken midway through my audition for Blue Man Group 😂

Edited August 26, 2019 by soldave

[EXCEL V8]

Spray WD40 or similar on one set of bushes at a time and see what happens to the noise.

Pete

[oilmagnet477]

Dave - you seriously need to make sure that the cat isn't getting squashed under the car when you are testing the suspension! 1 Year old? That's f**king huge. I thought my cat was big but your's casts a massive shadow!

Don't wish to argue with previous advice but in my experience, I used silicone spray on my creaking P83a RR suspension and after a short time (and repeated applications) the noise stopped. WD40 is good at dispersing water but it evaporates quickly leaving little behind.

Car looks great btw

[soldave]

3 minutes ago, oilmagnet477 said:

Dave - you seriously need to make sure that the cat isn't getting squashed under the car when you are testing the suspension! 1 Year old? That's f**king huge. I thought my cat was big but your's casts a massive shadow!

Don't wish to argue with previous advice but in my experience, I used silicone spray on my creaking P83a RR suspension and after a short time (and repeated applications) the noise stopped. WD40 is good at dispersing water but it evaporates quickly leaving little behind.

Car looks great btw

Thanks. I'll try some silicone spray on it and see if it quietens down.

Xander is on the large size, but British Shorthairs can get sizeable. His dad was almost 8kg and his mum about 6.5kg. He's about 6kg right now so is a bit of a chonk!

[soldave]

Amazing what a bit of lube on your ball joint can do! 😂 A healthy squirt on both sides and the noise seems to have gone away for now. Nice cheap repair!

[soldave]

Not posted any updates here for quite a while, and not been active on the forums either for a few months. Life and a few other things took over, but I have kept driving the Eclat when I've had the chance. Took it out for a trip today too, to a nice new place in West Yorkshire called The Motorist. Cafe, car garage and with plans to be everything for automobile lovers. The guy's very nice and has big plans. Hopefully they'll all work out for him.

The Eclat is running quite well since it's attempt to catch fire on the Evija launch visit. Only thing today was the indicators stopped working part way through the drive but pulling over and fiddling with the fuses sorted it - it's just a bad connection. Have cleared the terminals but the fuse box has seen better days. Thinking of getting one of these to replace it with: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Brand-New-Fuse-Box-For-Ford-Escort-Capri-Cortina-Taunus/161303918141

The only other winter jobs I have planned are maybe to fit a new aerial and to finally work out how to remove the rear speakers from the fittings, and replace them with some cheap upgrades. Other than that it'll have a quiet winter and be raring to go come sunny weather in Spring

[rjwooll]

On 07/12/2019 at 19:56, soldave said:

Not posted any updates here for quite a while, and not been active on the forums either for a few months. Life and a few other things took over, but I have kept driving the Eclat when I've had the chance. Took it out for a trip today too, to a nice new place in West Yorkshire called The Motorist. Cafe, car garage and with plans to be everything for automobile lovers. The guy's very nice and has big plans. Hopefully they'll all work out for him.

The Eclat is running quite well since it's attempt to catch fire on the Evija launch visit. Only thing today was the indicators stopped working part way through the drive but pulling over and fiddling with the fuses sorted it - it's just a bad connection. Have cleared the terminals but the fuse box has seen better days. Thinking of getting one of these to replace it with: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Brand-New-Fuse-Box-For-Ford-Escort-Capri-Cortina-Taunus/161303918141

The only other winter jobs I have planned are maybe to fit a new aerial and to finally work out how to remove the rear speakers from the fittings, and replace them with some cheap upgrades. Other than that it'll have a quiet winter and be raring to go come sunny weather in Spring

Dave, I've similarly had trouble with fuses (and connectors generally) on my S2.2 Elite. Repeated attempts to clean the contacts didn't seem to yield reliable results. Then EspritS2 (on this forum and/or lotusexcel.net - can't remember) recommended Rail-Zip for treating connectors. It is used by model railway enthusiasts to ensure a good connection between the track and the wheels. Anyway, treated my fuseboxes and it fixed the problems I was having - typically hot fuses under load because of high resistance in the spring/fuse connection. It is now sorted! I'd highly recommend it - you can find it here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pacer-ZAP-Rail-Zip-2-Corrosion-Inhibitor-PT23-Rail-Zip/121373466010?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Good luck, Richard

[soldave]

Damn it's been 6 months since I posted in my project thread. Must mean I've had a good run of reliability and that's generally been the case. Changed master brake cylinder for a Land Rover one after mine started leaking a little, but that's been the main bit of work I've needed I think. A couple of weeks ago the car was certified a historic vehicle so car tax became free for me, and I got a refund for some months this year which was very well received.

Took a look at the front suspension this past week and think I may have found the next area that I'll try to renew. Take a look at the pic below - the spring seat on the driver's side looks harder than a quadratic equation, and the damper ribber doesn't look much better. Looking at the threaded part of that damper, I could easily see me having to replace the whole thing. I've got Gaz shocks on the rear so may do that on the front too as a winter project, along with the following poly bushes:

• Top wishbone bush kit
• Top spring seats
• Lower wishbone pivot bushes
• Steering rack mountings

Should have the handling as good as if not better than new. Does anyone know off-hand if the Gaz shocks come with top damper bushes? I think they do but just wondered if anyone can confirm

[EXCEL V8]

You may find the top arm bushes are fine - they seem to last really well.  As for the other bushes I'd recommend sticking with rubber if it's a road car.  I bought some polyurethane rack bushes from SJ and they are so hard you cannot seat the brackets again without bending them!  Hopeless.  I'll be changing them back to OE spec rubber.  The poly lower arm bushes are easy to insert (after pressing out the old bushes!) but the spacer washers that you have to fit are a real pain in the bum to line up sometimes - I had to shorten the central tube to make room for them.  You need to press out the old Metalastic bushes anyway so again I'd recommend replacing them with Metalastic.  Top spring seats in polyurethane are a good idea if you can get the right size/thickness - the original ones are also a nice snug fit around the Armstrong damper shroud and and the I/D of the spring, so the spring is prevented from "walking" too much.  My chassis has a small hole where the spring had shifted and slowly rubbed through the metal!  Damper spindle bushes in polyurethane are again a good idea but the locating spigot on them is almost always about 18mm - you need to enlarge the holes in the chassis tops to suit.  

Pete

[soldave]

Thanks for that @EXCEL V8. Really good advice and maybe I go for the rubber bushes instead 

[EXCEL V8]

If you're passing near Nottingham (village to N.E.) I can press out the old bushes and press in the new ones if you want - I've made press tools of the right size.

[soldave]

Beautiful weather today so after work I decide to go into the hot garage and start taking the front suspension apart, so I got to work on the driver's side. Upper wishbones came off surprisingly easily, and the bushes don't look to be in too bad condition (although would appreciate some thoughts on the pics below, as I may be wrong). Next to come off was the track rod end... and that's where I came to a grinding halt. Just loosening the top nut and track rod bolt started spinning. Managed to get that nut off after a bit of improvisation, so at least I just needed to remove the locknut and spin the track rod end off.

Oh no that wasn't going to happen! Sprayed a ridiculous amount of plus gas on it. Used my 2000W heat gun (not blow torch quality but it got some heat into it), but it wasn't budging at all. Didn't help that the lock nut doesn't look to be in great condition either. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get hold of another 22m spanner to see if I can get better purchase on the nut, and I'll also get some more Dremel cutting discs in case I've got to cut it off. That would be a last resort as I don't want to risk damaging the power steering rack by cutting too much.

I did manage to take a closer look at the spring shoulder and also the damper spindle bushes and confirmed that they definitely need replacing. So one step forward and one step back today. But tomorrow is a new day and I'm determined to get that track rod end off.