1982 Eclat Riviera restoration......

[Benco]

Thanks both, the wiring isn't as the schematic in the manual, I'd noticed that there isn't a yellow/white wire between the solenoid and the coil and I'm suspicious about the wires from the ignition module as they don't match the diagrams I found on the internet. I think I'll have to run a separate wire, but that's tomorrow's fun!

[markgenesis]

Ah, forgot about the ignition module, that could complicate things as the coil ballast could be done through that so it could be a faulty module causing the problem.

 

You could run a hot wire to the coil bypassing it, wouldn't run the motor for long though as you will overheat  the coil or dizzy, but it would let you get the motor running and pinpoint the module as the problem. 

[Benco]

Success! Engine running! And within first crank of the starter every time!

I hot wired from the starter to the positive on the coil (alongside the ballasted white wire) and started first time, fantastic - thanks for the pointers. The ignition amplifier must be working as it's sending the timing pulse off to the coil correctly, must be a loom fault somewhere. I measured the resistance from the amplifier to the coil, presume this is the ballast resistor, at 400 ohms.

This is the first time I've seen/heard a lotus engine running, took it nice and steady up to a working temperature (years of oil and my redex burning off still), increased revs gently to about 2-3000 Max on this startup. Was quite surprised to notice how slowly the revs drop when decelerating, presume the distributor is mechanical/centrifugal - sticky mechanism or is this a characteristic of the engine? (as I see it's not a vac advance system).

So, now with at least engine peace of mind, I can start stripping the car down for the next stages.

[johnpwalsh]

Well done Terry, so another one come to life through perseverance and help from TLF.

[Dunc]

top work Terry!

 

its great when they first fire and catch and you know it will live as the project is then viable.

 

How is the clutch? Sometimes they seize from standing (mine did) have you tried to start it in gear with clutch depressed?

[Benco]

Yes, I'm very happy - still a long way to go, but encouraging signs!

I suspect the clutch is seized as you suggest, should I pick a high gear (say 5th?).

[johnpwalsh]

2nd or 3rd will do fine, better if you are on a bit of an incline and with a good battery. I have seen some of mine take hours to free off and that was with the car up to normal temp.

[mikeeech]

Careful with siphoning petrol by sucking on a pipe... If you gag on the stuff and aspirate it into your lungs it can kill you

[Benco]

Thanks for the post, the day after those first attempts I set up a more robust (and fire safe) supply with no longer any need to siphon, works a treat and should have done it straight away.

In terms of the clutch it's definitely seized, and it doesn't help that the handbrake doesn't yet work. I'm going to be stripping it all down, should I persevere to get the clutch freed now, or is it a job I can also do when the body is off?

[johnpwalsh]

If the body is coming of then its a sintch, ten minutes and you can split the box from the engine and have the clutch freed without fear of damage to any other components. Just remember, BEFORE removing the gear stick, to put the car into 2nd or 4th gear as you will find it near on impossible to get the gear lever back into the box again. Same goes for the hand brake mechanism, bitch to work while fitted to the car but with the body off you have everything done before rebuild, fit new R clips, make anything possible with stainless steel etc etc.

[Dunc]

I eventually broke mine free using the handbrake on the excel. have a read through "Ice blue eclat excel" on the projects page.

 

As this is an S2, it has the getrag box (if its a manual) so doesn't have some of the foibles of the earlier box.

 

Why are you taking the body off? You have a galv chassis, so you dont need to swap the chassis/ or inspect and repair. I'd leave the body on. Pop the drums off at the rear, fit a new set of cylinders and check the pads (cylinders are capri mk1/2 single cylinder, with pads being MGC, Capri 3L) make sure its all moving, then pop her up on axle stands and have a go at shocking her free by starting the car in gear.

 

I cut a bit of plastic water pipe to hold the clutch down.

[Benco]

I'll take a photo of the rear rail, seen from the spare wheel, be interested if you think there's some corrosion there or not that needs addressing. I'll be having a go at the rear brakes this weekend.

[Benco]

.....just a question then to the assembled experience on TLF....

The car needs a decent paint job, new vinyl roof, (do I take the windows out for that as there must have been some leaks through the joints), the wiring seems dodgy, pictures of chassis tomorrow, the brakes need fixing, not sure about suspension components, gearbox seems to be leaking at the back end, need to replace the fuel lines and other assorted hoses and of course you've seen the interior .......and there's probably more....

Although my poor beach buggy is outside I'm not under time pressure, should I get the body off to do the next stages?

[CharlieCroker]

What is your goal for this car? Body off restoration or mot'd road runner? I would make a clear decision and go with it, if you want to do a top paint job then body off is the only way to go, and if you go to those lengths it would be foolish to overlook the rest if the car, chassis, electrics ect ect. I'm confused as to where you are heading with this car, you mention body off, but if you are going down that route then there is only one way to do it, you may as well do a full on restoration?

[Dunc]

most people would remove the body for one reason only - to replace  or perhaps repair and paint a chassis.

 

Yours is an S2 and is on a galvanised chassis from new.

 

None of the jobs you have mentioend require the removal of the body so why bother?

[Benco]

Can't deny that you've got me thinking, maybe I was so fixed on it being a body off job when I first saw it, that's why I keep mentioning it.

Anyway good fun today, sun roof out (easier than I thought), rear seats out (the PO hadn't screwed any of the rear tabs in, just twisted them in the boot above the petrol tank), quarter panels and tunnel out tomorrow (looks different to the manual in that mine all seems to be in one piece from just behind the gear stick). Bought some axle stands off Gumtree yesterday, so the back of the car is going up tomorrow.

Photos added on Dropbox:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xl2fujmtq6z2h9i/AAAUl3mB2Rp9jGL7cJMkq_00a?dl=0

[johnpwalsh]

Wow Terry, I remember seing her advertised and thinking that she would be a great chellenge.

[cbclotus]

Hi Terry.Not far from you in Exeter.Good luck with your car.will be a great car and a good investment....Mike

[Don.Hasi]

With only a tiny little more love from one of the POs the car would be easier to get back to glory...

Huge respect for your mission!

I have to tidy up some bits also and you are now just ahead of me...

In some occasions our S2.2 are more comparable to the Excel parts than the S1 of the manual. So it could make sense to get these documents as well. Probably the truth is somewhere in the middle of them

How have you get the rear headrests out?

Edited January 11, 2015 by Don.Hasi

[Benco]

Hi Don, rear headrests are bolted onto each of the rear seats parts, I can access them now that they're out. I have been left though with assorted rusted 'tangs' that slot into small metal brackets that have been pop riveted onto the body (through the insulation/sound proofing).

[Benco]

[Benco]

A slow day today, trying to take the right interior pieces out in the right order! Finally got the rear px qtr panel out and hoovered up the biggest spider I've ever seen! Where it's got wet over the years the rear lap belt bolts are in a terrible state and one is completely rotted away, going to have to be creative to get that out.. It looks better than it is, not holding a socket or spanner head.

[Don.Hasi]

Thanks for explanation.

 

For the rear seat belts... investigate the rear plates under the car. They are prone to rust away... If this is the case, you need some bits and can choose the more hard way to get them torn apart.

[mikeeech]

As for the body off thing. Personally I would not be put off. Its easier than it sounds although lifting it needs to be thought about and it makes sorting things out suspension and brake wise very easy. Depends if you like grovelling under a car or standing over it!

[Benco]

Having fun with the electrical system, seems as if the ignition key switch isn't working in position 2.

In terms of relays there seem to be loads across the vehicle, does anyone have a list of which is which? E.g 3 under the dash on the right of the driver, near the fuses are (in which order).

Anyone have a picture of which fuses supply which system (as seen from the engine bay)?

Are there any other relays hiding elsewhere?

Main earthing point to the chassis for the wiring loom, is this the bolt on the drivers side of the engine bay? Or is there another to check out?