1982 Eclat Riviera restoration......

[directordanw]

I feel your pain! I've been there. There are loads of them, and they seem to be in a different order depending on who put them in, and what the PO has done!

But, off the top of my head:

The 3 in the driver's footwell - cooling fans, horn & headlamp flash

Two in the o/s light pod - one for each headlight lift motor

1 by fuel tank - electric aerial

I think that's it. My PO has then fitted one on the starter circuit - which seems quite wise! I only identified them by matching wire colours on the wiring diagram. Have you got one? I've created a colour version of the diagram which I'll PM to you.

[Don.Hasi]

Start with this http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/35478-elite-riviera/page-2#entry357027and that http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/64500-relay-fun/?hl=%2Bwiring+%2Bs2.2 and enjoy

Dan, could you please post your diagram? Would be helpfull for any of us thanks in advance

[directordanw]

Here it is, it's not complete and it's not perfect but it sure helps!  And I deny all responsibility if your car's wiring bears no relation to what's on this diagram!  Use at your own risk!

 

That second thread that Don pointed towards was my relay pain last year, so I'm fairly well versed now to help you through yours Terry.

[Benco]

Thanks guys, there's some pretty ropey wiring in the boot (where I found the multimeter ), and also a black 6DA wiper control unit. So it looks as if I have a spare, I haven't seen the proper unit yet - is that hidden right up behind the dash?

[directordanw]

The wiper control unit and the flasher unit are underneath the dash, directly below the gauges and steering column. So if you're lying on your back with your head in the footwell they're right in front of you.

[Benco]

Well, this is where we (my car and I) start to get to know each other a little better. I've spent most of the day tracing all of the wires with the multimeter. Realised that best bet with under dash work is to take the front seats out, so the ropey old things are covered up in the garage.

1) The problem I had with the car cutting out as soon as I switched from position III to position II, is all down to the ignition switch (and what a pain that is to get to!). It's not working at all in position II (the running position), the other 2 positions work ok.

So first question, is this a known problem, any suggestions for fixes or is it a replacement (and that looks like a new assembly (steering cluster Diassembly?

2) With the help of Dans coloured wiring diagram (a great help!) I've checked all wires to the fuse boxes and no surprise that there are a few mods there. Am now checking each wire off on a printed copy of the diagram. I've read through the other posts on the electrical system and see that finding a good earth is important, so will probably put an earth block on the frame in the drivers footwell, straight from the battery. Pretty amazed at simple things like the switches in the car, lots of grot/grease/corrosion on even simple switches like the rear int light switch.

3) Fuel pump now has proper power, checked the supply and earth at the pump, all ok but no action at the pump itself. Will need to drain the fuel out anyway - is the pump investigation just a case of disassembly or any particular things to look out for?

4) Headlamps and relays, yesterday I was getting assorted noises from the headlamp pods, no movement yet, moving the harness on the passenger side pod led to a raid series of clicking on the right, so clearly some bad connections there. If I wanted to just lift out the pods is it a case of removing the 3 screws from inside each wheel arch and unscrewing each pivot point?

Fun continues.....

[eclat22]

Hi, the ignition switch is an electrical switch that is held into the rear of the steering lock with a small screw from memory and is replicable without changing the steering lock/column. I might even have a spare in the shed.

Hope this helps

Dan

[Benco]

Thanks Dan, there are 2 small cross head screws under the key slot, will give these a go

[directordanw]

Achieving any reliability with the headlamp lift motors was an agonising process - which in the end resulted in one replacement motor from Rimmers as the original was so gummed up with the old grease that it had burnt out, and therefore kept blowing the fuse.  I found the easiest way to get the pod out was to remove the headlamp unit which gives access to the mechanism and the relays.  It's then an easy job to undo the two pivot bolts and the actuating arm that attaches it to the motor.  There is enough cable on the lights to lift the pods up and lie them in the engine bay - assuming you've got the bonnet off (which is a huge help when doing anything to these cars!). That way you can easily observe the action of the motors which are still on their brackets - these are held in place by those three screws in the wheel arch.  And you've got loads of access to the wiring to test the circuit and to replace the relays - and mine were a corroded mess when I took them out.  When I refitted the relay block I then mounted a tupperware box over them with silicon, with a notch cut for the cables, to try and minimise rain and road water wrecking them again.  It's then only another three bolts to remove the lift motor from the bracket if it needs replacing.

 

Glad the colour diagram helps.  I found it invaluable!

[Don.Hasi]

And I deny all responsibility if your car's wiring bears no relation to what's on this diagram!  Use at your own risk

This should also be noted on the original documents

 

Thanks for your work so far, Dan

 

 

@Terry: be careful with testing the pods without lubricating them after so many years. At last a motor could blow... I would try it first without the pods on like you have already investigated yourself

[Benco]

The headlamp pods are permanently down at the moment, so can't take out the lights to ease access as Dan suggests. So thinking about removing the whole lot in one go....is that a 'simple' case of removing the 3 bolts each side and the pivot pins? To take the out as an assembly?

Sounds like good waterproofing is the order of the day for anything outside of the cabin, Tupperware sounds like a good option!

[directordanw]

Underneath each light pod you'll find a large (10cm) rubber grommet.  Unless the grommets are gone.  In which case you'll find a large hole!  Reaching up into here you'll be able to feel the motors.  On the bottom of each is a winder that can be used to open the pods.  Some of the winders are just pull and twist knobs, others need a screwdriver - seems to depend on whether they're the originals or your PO has pillaged them from a TR7.  I have one of each, but the unit is exactly the same.

[Benco]

Thanks Dan, will check these when back in Bristol

[Wilf]

Make sure you have your battery disconnected as manually turning them may have the potential to reawaken the motor and having it cycle whilst your hand is in there could be painful.

[Benco]

Only a brief spell on the car this weekend. On the headlights, I looked at the space under the pods, there's just a 4 cm diameter hole with a threaded bolt (to be turned with a screwdriver) and a lock nut. Will have a look at this presuming it's the mechanism, no hocke big enough sadly to get my hand/fingers into.

I've been very conscious of the fuel in the tank. On one of those brief moments when the fuel gauge flickered into life, it showed over 1/2 a tank. So emptied this today and took the tank out as it was rusty on the back and corners and I wanted to repaint it before it's in properly. The fuel itself was quite brown, so expect there's some rust in it where it's been stood for years. Once the tank was out it looks like surface rust, that I'll treat.

On the fuel pump side, are there any serviceable parts in it? I looked at the service manual and it's a little light on information.

Thanks

[directordanw]

That's odd. I obviously didn't explain where the access hole is very well! On the bottom of the car, behind the spoiler, directly beneath the light pod. Plenty big enough to get your hand in. I'll try and get a photo.

The SU fuel pumps are eminently serviceable. It's a points based mechanism so the contact can be cleaned up. Or there are rebuild kits available - I got one for my MG off eBay. Search YouTube for a John Twist video of how to restore them.

[eclat22]

For fuel pumps look up burlen.co.uk

[Benco]

Thanks, Dan I'll take a photo too tomorrow so we can compare notes.

[Benco]

Hi Dan, the hole in the body work is about 4-5cm diameter.

[directordanw]

Hi Terry,

 

That is fascinating.  That's got to be the hole I'm referring to because of the position of the winder but it is completely different to my model.  If you look on the SJ website they even list a 'Large Diameter Access Grommet' which they say 'covers headlamp motor winder holes on Series 2 models' and yet there's no way this fella:

 

 

would fit in the hole that you've got there.  Haven't had a chance to photograph mine today, but pinched this photo off the SJ website.  And like I say they're about 10cm across.

 

Either way that winder will allow you to manually lift the pods, and then you can whip them out as discussed.

[Benco]

Thanks Dan, if that's the winder then I'm on it tomorrow evening to see what will happen!

[directordanw]

Unless the motor is seized solid you should be able to wind it by hand.  Good luck!

[Benco]

Perfect, after a couple of turns both ways, they moved up pretty freely, I'll be taking the lights out to get to the relays/motors as you suggest. Thanks!

[Don.Hasi]

this is how it looks like from above. It is like Dan has told before a greater inspection hole where the complete motor could be changed through this

[Benco]

Managed to spend some time on the car today, with a 'headlight pod' mission! Took the lights out, which off of the wiring loom worked and then worked through the holes to access the motor connections. Sadly no life in the motors so they'll be coming out anyway for repair and to change all of the rusted bolts.

I was expecting the pod removal to be easy, but no surprise that both in-board bolts had seized, with the head of one of them completely coming off. Luckily the nut on the rad side was rusted so well that I could unwind it from there. The other side was equally painful, but sadly no nut to grab onto - even the mole grips couldn't get a good hold on it. So out with the dremel (don't think this will be the last time!) to reduce the size of the boss, I pushed the pod over as far as it would go - to pop the 'boss' out of the body - and success! Re-tapped the threads on every bolt/boss sides, presume these will need greasing when refitted?