Headlight pods come up, but no lights come on!

[Dixie237]

So I got back today from a 100 mile run out. In the last few miles the light was just starting to fade so "on went the lights" ....or so I thought! As per post title, pods came up. It was only when I got home that I could see the main lights were not on. Side lights yes. When I pull the stalk to "flash" the lights the headlights come on so they are getting power. I'll have no time this week to get out and troubleshoot, and wondered in an attemt to streamline sorting this next weekend, if anyone can suggest where the most likely issue would be?

Any thoughts, time spent replying much appretiated.

Cheers

 

[Paul Coleman]

Could be as simple as the light switch itself or a bad earth.

[Dixie237]

Thanks Paul,

I forgot to mention, the switch is "new" that was my first job after buying the car!. I'll check it out again anyway. I need to start a "parts bin collection" I'll grab a new relay and check that also. I think my I'll dive into an electrics "service" over Easter. Check all earths to the chassis, remove and clean  switch / relay contacts etc. Hopefully I'll resolve the lights issue doing that.

Thanks again for reply

[jonwat]

1 hour ago, Dixie237 said:

I forgot to mention, the switch is "new" that was my first job after buying the car!.

Definitely something you've done then. 

[peteyg]

Another possibility is melted contact on the stalk. Depending on where your relays are, if the power is going through he stalk as per original setup the plastic around the contacts can melt. Flash will still work if that bit hasn't melted.

Pete

[Escape]

Can you still get permanent high beam as well? That uses the same part of the switch.

[Dixie237]

3 hours ago, jonwat said:

Definitely something you've done then. 

Perhaps I won't swap the relay out myself then! 

59 minutes ago, peteyg said:

Another possibility is melted contact on the stalk. Depending on where your relays are, if the power is going through he stalk as per original setup the plastic around the contacts can melt. Flash will still work if that bit hasn't melted.

Pete

I'll take a look at that Pete, thanks..

3 minutes ago, Escape said:

Can you still get permanent high beam as well? That uses the same part of the switch.

Good point, I'll take a look tonight

[marcbria]

Stupid question but have you checked the bulbs. On my daily driver I had 4 tail lights all burn out at the same time, so that may be the place to start. 

[Dixie237]

6 hours ago, Escape said:

Can you still get permanent high beam as well? That uses the same part of the switch.

Permanent high beam fine. So would that mean the switch is working as it should?

3 hours ago, marcbria said:

Stupid question but have you checked the bulbs. On my daily driver I had 4 tail lights all burn out at the same time, so that may be the place to start. 

Not stupid at all, all four lamps burning fine on flash and permanent high beam...

[marcbria]

Hi Dixie,

May still be burned out bulbs, although sounding less like it. The normal headlights are dual filament, flashing turns on the high beam part of the low beam bulb as well as the high beam bulb.

Brian

[Dixie237]

4 minutes ago, marcbria said:

Hi Dixie,

May still be burned out bulbs, although sounding less like it. The normal headlights are dual filament, flashing turns on the high beam part of the low beam bulb as well as the high beam bulb.

Brian

Hey Brian, of course! Mmm so a visual on the filament? Ill take a closer look.

cheers

[Escape]

12 hours ago, Dixie237 said:

Permanent high beam fine. So would that mean the switch is working as it should?

I don't have the electrical diagrams for the S2, so don't know the details. If you do have the circuit, the tests you have done should help you find the point of failure. As the bulbs are not that easy to access, look for the feed cable for the dipped beams and either put 12V on it or do a continuity check (needs to be done on each side separately).

[Dixie237]

2 hours ago, Escape said:

I don't have the electrical diagrams for the S2, so don't know the details. If you do have the circuit, the tests you have done should help you find the point of failure. As the bulbs are not that easy to access, look for the feed cable for the dipped beams and either put 12V on it or do a continuity check (needs to be done on each side separately).

Thanks for that. I need to add a multimeter to my toolkit. 

[Dixie237]

On 21 March 2016 at 11:17, peteyg said:

Another possibility is melted contact on the stalk. Depending on where your relays are, if the power is going through he stalk as per original setup the plastic around the contacts can melt. Flash will still work if that bit hasn't melted.

Pete

Long over due resolution to my issue. Finally found the time to resolve after lovely light summer day driving. It was indeed the stalk. The red/green wire feed to the lights had melted the copper 'rivet' partially through the plasic block on the switch resulting in loose contact. .

making my troubleshooting harder was aslo a loose spade connector on one of the blocks to headlight. I did a resolder of the contact which worked, but opted for a new switch for permanent install.

Any info on a relay mod like the window motor relay mod to bypass live feed through the stalk switch?

Infact any other recommended relay mods for high amp areas reccomended?