Escape

Import more state owned cr@p from the PRC?

They should have started with the interior, then it would have been a good price for a running Excel.

That's the difference, some of us are already nuts, so little things like that don't matter too much. 😄 I appreciate you'd want everything to work, but it certainly wouldn't stop me from driving my car. On my first Esprit, when the LH tank started leaking, I isolated it and ran the car on just the RH tank. Without a working gauge, as that is in LH tank on the SE. I knew I could do about 200 miles on one tank, so made sure to fuel up after 150 or so. I did cut it close once, and managed to put 37 liter in! Now if it's an important gauge like temperature, that would require urgent fixing.

If you jump the fuel pump relay with everything else off, you should hear a clear buzz coming from the tank. Cracking open one of the connections on the fuel filter is the easiest way to prove there is flow or not. If you take the output side, you have tested flow through the filter at the same time. 😉 If there is flow with the jumper instead of the relay, try starting like that. If the engine still doesn't fire, I'd check if the injectors are being fired. You can do this by unplugging one (1 and 2 are easy to get to), first check for 12V at the orange/white wire and then have someone measure for voltage across both pins while cranking. A decent multimeter will see a voltage spike as the ECU applies ground to complete the circuit.

A groan is more likely to be from the PAS pump. The rotation of the UJ is too slow to make much noise, but it can give a notchy feeling.

Congrats!

Indeed, one of the earths is missing. As said, not that big a mistake as you'd notice it when wiring for real. @Alistair Enser I wasn't just kidding, I never need much persuasion to take a trip to UK. So if you can't find a solution closer by, let me know. 😉

You can move the needle on its pin, but you need to be careful. Are you saying it never reaches full (or thereabouts)? If it does move across the scale, personally I'd leave it at that and just keep in mind there is still a good reserve below 0. If it doesn't move much at all, you'd need to glue it back on. It wont be easy making sure you glue it in the right position though.

The IAT sensor is located on the right hand inlet elbow, top side, behind the right hand bank. In your picture it's hidden by the coolant tank.

I've corrected the title. Just to make sure those who do a search will have a good scare when they reach these last posts. 😁

That's just wrong, there's no reason a cyclist or any other road user should be exempt from speed limits. Over here, police have made it clear that cyclist do need to follow speed limitations, particularly in 30kmh and 20kmh zones. Of course, a lot of them don't and there is little or no way to catch and fine them. Dangerous driving should apply in any case though, especially when a (fatal) accident occurred. This sort of ruling just strengthens their idea of being entitled.

As above, an engine that starts but immediately dies often doesn't get (enough) fueling. If you take out a plug after trying to start, is it wet /soothy/smelling of fuel (indicating fuel but no spark) or dry (no fuel)?

This is the diagram you need: Make sure the AC is off. Next, the Otter switch is the most likely place to start. It's not too hard to unplug the , if that stops the fans, you have found the culprit. If it doesn't, try removing the fuse or relay for the AC, just to make sure that's not on all the time. Finally I'd check the relay, as they can fail in the on position.

Sounds like you have one of these: