Escape

The wire loom of my SE has several unused connectors like that, probably left overs from earlier versions that had some air control solenoids etc in the right buttress.

Yes, as far as I know the tachometer always uses an unregulated 12V. I suspect to match the signal from the coil, which is also 12V.
As said in the other topic, the Europa uses a 10V regulated feed for the other instruments.
Sounds like an interesting conversion using a period correct gauge.

I think, on the LR servo, we managed to get the pushrod out without splitting the actual chamber. Just the center section with seals etc. We took it out before welding on an M8 to prevent heat damage to the membrane.

You'll have to put pliers to the cross shaft to be able to rotate and move it to select different gears. You can easily check when you're in 4th as the output will turn at the same speed as the input shaft. And it's one end of the range, the other being 1st, so a big difference in ratio.

The clutch shaft/ input shaft is separate from the main shaft in the UN1 gearbox. Good for dampening vibrations, but as the shaft is not directly supported by a bearing and only connected through a splined coupling, it does allow some play. A little bit of play is no problem, once bolted to the engine the other end of the shaft will sit in the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Too much play can point to a worn front bearing or excessive play in the coupling between clutch and primary shaft. But those are the exceptions.

If you have a car able to tow a car trailer, it will happily pull an S1 up a slope as well, even with the handbrake stuck on. Or if you can find/ borrow a car trailer with a winch, that will do the trick as well. The rear cradle is a good and safe spot to attach a tow rope. The small winch on my trailer had no trouble pulling out several Matras that had all 4 brakes locked. That's similar weight to an S1.
I would not try and force the car to drive. In my opinion the fuel it the least of your worries, but you took quite a bi risk starting the engine with the old timing belt. Who knows what else could be stuck apart from the handbrake? Bringing a car that's been sitting back to life usually takes a decent amount of TLC. Especially if it's a special car like an S1 as you'd want to be very careful. Not something to rush just to be able to move it. A couple of months ago I insisted on trailering a mate's X180 stood for a couple of years. Even if it was a bit of a hassle to maneuver it out of the barn. She was winched on the trailer and from there straight on to the lift for a thorough check, service and timing belt before attempting to start her.
As an aside, how did the Esprit survive the cover? I've heard horror stories of cars covered for longer periods as moisture can get under the cover and cause all kind of trouble, from corrosion to mold... 😞

The round black plug should just pull apart. There is a seal inside, so it might (will) take some effort to wiggle it lose after so many years. The thick white/red wire should be the starter circuit. I'd leave that alone, as long as it's closed it shouldn't need cleaning.

Most cars have a dimmer switch (rheostat) for the panel lamps, sometimes together with the instrument backlight. Can be useful to make the cabin a bit darker and thus less distracting on long night drives.
I think it was Saab that had a switch in some models that turned off every backlight expect for the speedo. Military Land Rovers (and likely others as well) have a panel light switch to turn everything off, to be used in combination with IR lights to avoid being seen during night operations. Not really relevant these days, with IR detection etc.
I wouldn't say a panel light switch is a very useful feature. I do have the rheostat on my cars set quite low, so the backlight is minimal.

You're right that it is a water pump, probably an electric replacement for the standard engine driven pump for the chargecooler circuit. Not a very tidy install, there is room in the engine bay if you put some effort in it.
Have you checked coolant levels? If low, air in the circuit can cause the pump to whine. Or if the car has been sitting for a long time, it could be other debris/dirt or a clogged pipe somewhere. A flush would be the first step.
Filip

It doesn't matter on the later cars with electronic ignition. It's probably just a leftover in the manual from an earlier version, for cars with the distributor on the auxiliary shaft. And even then the position is not critical, as long as you get the ignition timing right.

I take it you mean the orientation of the metal spacer block? It seems correct in your picture, but easy enough to verify, the holes should align perfectly. If they're off some distance, flip it over and try again. 😉

Hope your test gives a good result!
I put in the rebuilt alternator today, about 15 minutes to fit and tighten the belt. I used a medium prybar to lever the alternator to tighten everything. It did involve what I call the reverse Lotus position: head in the engine bay, feet somewhere sideways and my bum high up in the air. 🙂 I hope nobody took pictures...

I think that's normal. Looking at the wiring diagram, the tell tale has no connection to ground if the indicators on both sides are flashing. You should get the flashing hazard triangle in the switch though.
The manual also only mentions the indicator tell tale light flashing when either left or right indicators are in use.

Should be behind the dash:

If the float valves in the carbs don't seal, the electrical fuel pump will overfill the bowls and fuel can make it's way to the plenum. The purge pump in turn will draw in the fuel. Not sure your '89 Turbo Esprit but on the Excel you hear the fuel pump tick ever slower until it stops when the float valves seal. My guess is your pump keeps ticking/pumping and is flooding everything. It's easy enough to take off the fuel lines and carb covers, to clean and check the valves.