LOTUSMAN33

Pete can you send me a link, I’d like to have a look at the build to date? You should get something going on here as well if possible, I’d be interested to see how you are mounting the cam sensors/rings and the wheel sensors ( not thought about doing those yet). Dave 🙂

Hi Steve Both yours and Pete’s sound really interesting, I’ll flip over to your threads for a good catch up. Only time will tell how reliable my set up is, I’ve already had some spurious TPS readings with it losing its baseline, slightly over tightening being the issue so I’m hoping to sort with a couple tiny shims. If not I’ll replace it with another manufacturer and reprogram it. 🙂

Hi Pete I ran the emerald on my classic mini, it was a nice bit of kit. The MaxxECU is very user friendly with good support and easy to follow set up screens with help functions. I’m still a novice at injection installs although now confident in doing it on further vehicles in the future. The hardest part of the install is wiring route planning and making all the brackets to suit the application. I already have further improvement plans like cam sensors and going down the crank hall sensor route via a modified flywheel as opposed to the 36-1 tooth VR sensor as fitted currently. I will have to modify the bell housing mind which is fine with a welded boss. There are lots of other things you can add via the MaxxECU which I may consider in time to further refine its tune. Keep me posted on your plans? Dave

St Tropez cover?

Hi Pete I’m running a MaxxECU mini Dave 🙂

Well done Pete, can’t be many who have accomplished that in an early Esprit, credit to good care and maintenance 🙂

It’s a shame the video of it running won’t upload, it sounds amazing with instant pick up on the throttle and that was running 17 degrees BTDC, now I’ve used the timing light and reset the crank pick up datum it’s very sweet. I’m having a few issues with the throttle position sensor losing its reading but found losing the screws sorted that so I need a 5 thou shim to cure it properly. The exhaust is a bit loud being a full stainless 4 branch but isn’t leaking so it will quiet down a little with some carbon build up hopefully. The lambda sensor gets very hot and close to the body so a heat shield to fabricate. The ECU has an auto tune function I can set when driving so that should get me in the ball park until she’s finished and visits the rolling road tuners. All in all very happy but having no dizzy and coil means I’ve lost my taco feed which I need to sort out via the ECU. Ive now installed the three radiator fans on relays controlled by the ECU, I can set the temp they kick in and out which is pretty cool. I’ll speak to my fabricator/machine shop to see what can be done about the stabiliser group buy, it’s a lovely quality bit of kit 👍🏻 With winter fast approaching I’ll be storing this car and finishing the LHD 182H over the winter so this thread may stall for a bit. 🙂

Posted on FB today, photo of a football club posing with PPW post filming while doing promo work no doubt. 🙂

The later design Steve

Your mounts should be fine, there’s not much movement on the engine. Key is to protect the mount from heat under the exhaust manifold. The LH gearbox mount suffers similar with excessive heat from the intermediate pipe with also adds to the wheel bearing on that side. The mount stabiliser adds backup keeping the engine in position 🙂

ABE81909-8D76-4120-A423-F0FB4F4333A6.MOV It’s running, I need to sort a tacho feed but happy being a start file only, now the fun bit of setting it up. Currently it’s running 15-17 degrees BTDC at temperature but ran out of time to adjust this evening. Happy though as no leaks anywhere 🙂

That looks good enough Lez 👍🏻🙂 Here’s my original one and below one on the imported JPS.

I believe the design originated from the states, this has been remanufactured from stainless by a friend with a machine shop. It mounts from the bell housing to all newly manufactured chassis support bar bracket. I had one on JPS 008 originally. I can always get a price if anyone wants one, they aren’t cheap to make mind. 🙂

Engine now almost ready for first run, just the fuel regulator to seal up and connect. The new airbox took a fair bit of work to get the clips installed and to work properly, I added 3mm shims below in the end. Rubber came out well in the end. I have good oil pressure of the starter which was good news. C pipe all nicely welded up to remove the otter switch. I changed the water pump hose following Fabians lead after his failed, the quality of the PNM replacement is much better and reinforced. The exhaust is wrapped in DEI, having the HC engine eliminates the oil leaking issue so hopefully this will help reduce engine bay temps. Engine stabiliser in place to help save the engine mounts. Valance in place, I need to dress the new bumper to fit the body contours then I’ll drill and fit the nutserts for the valance prior to paintwork making final assembly quick and easy. I’m making use of the recent good weather to do a some more bodywork repairs prior to winter storage. 🙂

That’s strange as they normally come into range ok, are you getting an even spray from both barrels of each carb? Double check you float heights, are you gravity feeding the carbs as if so you need to give time for fuel delivery so slow the pump action down on the throttle lever. Did you ultra sonic clean the carbs and all the jets?

I spray my motorcycle engine with FS 365 which is a corrosion inhibitor, I ride it everyday to work in all weathers. Due to ongoing car restorations it’s lived outside most of its life bought new in 2018 yet still corrosion free. I did wax oil the frame internally from new being steel which helped. https://www.scottoiler.com/products/refill-lubes-protectors/fs365-bike-protector/ I also use Lanoguard on my car chassis but that does leave a sticky residue, it works well on our 4x4 though holding corrosion at bay. The FS 365 soaks into the aluminium engine casings so keeps them looking fresh, it sprays well also. 👍🏻 Dave 🙂

Sounds like a good list, 15 years is a long time so the oil is likely well drained from the internals now. As a minimum turn the engine over without the spark plugs to get oil pressure up first. You can lubricate the cam lobes ok by removing the covers as planned and pouring oil over them. I always pre-fill the oil filter with some oil but don’t overfill as you’ll make a mess screwing it on. Once running you can do a coolant flush, check the radiator hoses when you drain it initially for any sludge as well. Don’t be surprised to find several leaks once running with hardened seals as Tim states. Good luck and keep us posted 🙂

Will do Steve, I’ll do a posting on fuel injecting a lotus 907/912 once I finish listing all the parts and current prices etc. I’ll still get it on the rolling road after my home setting up just to confirm it’s all ok and smooth the power curve. Dave

A bit more progress, it’s a slowly transforming back to its origins. Wolfies all stripped and polished with some budget tyres to roll it about on and get it painted. Sills now fitted and the wheels, the bodywork continues and that’s all I want to say about that endless task, needless to say I could get away with murder as no longer own fingerprints 😁 Chassis now patched up and given a healthy coating of black with several applications of lanoguard to help slow further corrosion, it’s good enough for the MOT now letting me remove the Irish number plate. New rack and brakes installed. Gearbox is in along with the exhaust manifold, I’ve had to weld a boss in the intermediate pipe for the lambda sensor. Still lots to do in the engine bay but new loom now together and laid out roughly so going through the exercise of mounting all the sensors. Nice having a coil pack with no distributor sat under the fuel source. I need to remove the C pipe and weld up the otter switch hole as the fans will be controlled via the ECU now. I had to remove the inlet manifold again to drill/tap the extra holes for the air control valve inlets and vacuum outtake for the ECU and fuel pressure valve (not fitted yet as awaiting fittings). Hopefully first runs in a few weeks so fingers crossed 🙂🤞🏼 Yes I know a cam cover is back to front… 😳 I’ll sort that when I remove to coat with oil prior to its first run 😉

Although not a lotus it shows how filming tech has changed to get realistic camera roll, a long way from cameras attached to scaffold planks in the SWLM. 🙂

From FB 😍

Chris, my lad went with ‘more than smart wheels’ who had him on the road with a box for £1200 the first year and £820 the second year. It’s due again next month so I’ll see what they quote now he’s just turned 20. 👍🏻🙂