wooooody

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/740919044589170/?ref=search

There's a valved S exhaust for £100 on Facebook marketplace I think I spotted earlier today. Mate had one on his NA years ago, it definitely improved the sound.

I can't see anything specific already on here (or elsewhere) but wondering what coolant people are using? I'm doing a full flush as I've replaced the air con condenser and had the radiator checked and tested at the same time. I can't find the recommended Havoline at all and can only find the Petronas in 1 litre bottles. Is there a known good alternative? Should any OAT coolant do? Toyota coolant is readily available but only in pre-duluited form. Cheers

Feedback is appreciated, it's why I've posted on here. Tbh, I'd probably missed how the tray slides out, so you're absolutely correct on that. The Evora, I think having owned a sport 160 for a long time, rides quite high, so my thinking was another 5mm of fastener protrusion should be ok, but again, I take your point. I've probably been over thinking this and an improved version of the standard set up would be best; 8.8 steel M8 bolt with a standard hex head rather than the ones Lotus fitted with the 10mm flanged head, tef gel and either a zinc or stainless washer with some sort of isolation washer between it and the undertray.

I happened across these studs today. Unfortunately M10 and A4-80 stainless, but will assess lengths against requirements. Could be a nice solution with an isolated washer and nyloc nut. At least then if the stainless corrodes to a rivnut in the chassis, the nut should still come off fine.

On the graphite, I've been using it for 17+ years on the Elise and not had an issue. Forgot I have tef gel now, so will use that. Still haven't decided what way to go, did discover a large stash of fibre washers this week that might be an idea to isolate the tray from a washer. Also looked at aluminium Bolts, might be possibly up to to M10 rivnuts for those. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304566946719?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IGZ6SQ9TQ96&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kvzANOirTT2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Galvanic corrosion. Stainless acts faster than mild steel paired with aluminium, especially in wet conditions and more so if there's any salt present. I used aerospace stainless washers for my Elise undertray 16 years ago despite knowing it could be an issue. You could see the effects within months.

You should be able to drill out the three spinning of course and replace the rivnuts. It's what's the best option long term. Unfortunately looks like there's no access possible to the nut side for the inboard fixings. Stainless of course must be avoided in contact with aluminium.

Do we know if this is an easy solder fix?

Doing a few jobs so had to remove the front undertray over the weekend. It wasn't the most fun job I've ever done as I'd to lie under the car, goggles on, to drill out three of the M8 bolts, galvanically corroded to their rivnut. I'm considering a few options and whatever goes one will have duralac as required and graphite based anti-seize on threads. Has anyone converted to a rivnut, stud & nut over the rivnut and bolt set up? Might even help installation?

I'm finding first weekend aside, the Evora didn't get much attention at all. Very few turned heads, certainly less than our 1971 mini got and it turned fewer heads than my Sport 160 Elise (though the noise might have some bearing on that). The first weekend though, was cringe. Two streets away a middle age man (I suspect he owns the M2 in the same place), stopped, crouched and gave a double thumbs up. Next day, in the high street area a similarly aged man stopped in his tracks, jaw agape and couldn't get his phone out to film fast enough (this is an area with plenty of Lambis, McLarens, Ferraris and the odd Maserati). Later that same day I had a young guy in a C3 flash the headlights enthusiastically from behind, cut from the outside lane into an off ramp at the last second, tailgate, over take me and another car on a blind crest and then do laps of the next roundabout, first out the window, waiting for me to catch up. I wasn't playing so he rejoined the motorway at the next opportunity.

The struts I removed are Stabilus lift-o-mat (not sure if they're OEM) and are 406mm. The clio struts measure 410mm.

Side by side mine were slightly longer than the ones that came off. I can take actually sizes later. Given where the tailgate opens to, I wouldn't want to fit anything longer than the Clio ones

An update to this fairly old thread that's probably not worth a new thread; MK2 Clio tailgate struts fit perfectly, ends are the same, they're a few mm longer but go on fine. Tailgate now opens nicely and stays open every time £11 delivered from eBay for a pair.

That's been on autotrader fire about a month at £30k. Now removed.