davevr6car

I can't understand why people are paying such big money to get their turbo's reconditioned. The turbo on my S4s was showing signs of wear to the main bearing. So I bought online from a turbo dealer, an upgrade t4 compressor housing and back plate, with larger compressor wheel, 360' bearing and all new seals including upgraded oil seals for 160 quid. I took apart my turbo very carefully taking pictures as I disasembled the unit. replaced the bearing and seals and before installing the turbine and compreesor housings had the unit professionly balanced for 60 euro's. The turbo is back on the car and running great. So to do just a standard rebuild on one of your turbo's shouldn't cost you more than 120 pounds including balancing. Just my 50 cents worth. Have photos of my disasembled turbo and rebuild if anybody is interested. cheers Dave

Bump

Hi Ben, I have a V8 valance if your interested. I was thinking of doing the twin exit, but I'm going for the centre exit now. Let me know if your interested. cheers Dave

I removed the short pipe that runs from the steering rack and Pirtek put a standard fitting on the existing hard pipe. This allowed them to build me a standard length of SS braided pipe in about 15minutes. I fiited it to the car using the original mounting points on the frame but with larger P clips. Another plus point is that it will never rust! Cheers DAve

Cheers Travis for the quick reply. I thought the same, but I thought with the lobe at 180' away from the follower that this should be the largest clearance between the cam and the follower, but on mine it wasn't. For referance, iIf you where to say that the lobe was at 12 o'clock and 180' away was 6 o'clock. the clearance I have at 6 o'clock was .15mm, but measured at 4to 5 o'clock position I was getting a clearance of .2mm. Is this normal or are my cams showing signs of wear? Cheers in advance for any advice / help on this. Dave

Hi, I replaced this pipe on my S4s. I got Pirtec to make me up a stainless steel braided line from the front of the car to the connection joint just under the pump. Worked a treat and only cost 40 euro. I think the pipe from Lotus was 120 pounds. Cheers Dave

Hi everyone. Just got a question yea might be able to answer. I have the engine out of my S4s for a bottom end rebuild. While I have the engine out, I decided to check the valve clearances to make sure that the shims are all within tolerances. lotus manual says the Inlet clearances are .13mm - .18mm. Where exactly do you measure the clearances between valve bucket and the cam lobe. I presumed it would 180' from the highest part of the lobe, ie when the valve is completly shoot. This is where I measured on mine and got readings of .15mm , but when I turned the cam maybe 10' to 15' I got readings of .2mm. So my question is should the largest clearance between cam and bucket be .13 & .18mm no matter where on the cam lobe the measurements are taken from. Cheers Dave

Hi, I looking for a rear bumper for my s4s after my exhaust pipe came loose and melted a hole straight thru it. Any help appriciated. Cheers Dave

Hi Peter, I noticed you mention in a previous post that you were breaking a S4. I'm looking for a rear bumper. Do you still have one from the s4 in good condition. cheers Dave

Hi, I looking for w rear bumper for my s4s after my exhaust pipi came loose and melted a hole straight thru it. Any help appriciated. Cheers Dave

Hi all, just to bump this topic back up to the top. I'm going to rebuild my turbo and am going to replace the compressor wheel housing and wheeel to a slightly larger type similar to the cosworth RS500. Somebody on here must know the dimensions of JW upgrade turbo. Why is it such a big secret? So can anyone tell me the inducer and exducer sizes on the compressor wheel.

Hi Martin, Fitted the vacuum gauage and bleed valve upto the servo today and tried it with a vacuum pump. system kept its vacuum so no leaks. Vacuum gauge very handy for this. Connected up my front brake lines.....very hard to get those original front pipes flared! I ended up replacing the fronts from the master back to the front suspension uprights. Bleed the brakes... they were very spungey... then I adjusted the connecting rod inti the servo and now the pedal feels solid. Will have to fit my new rear setup now, replace the clutch and turbo, rear oil seal, put the gearbox back in and reassemble the whole rear suspension and then I'll try me brakes out. Its all uphill! Cheers Dave

Lucas, This is the reply email from John. David: We are no longer able to source the parts to build the ceramic ball bearing turbos. Regards John Some body out there must know the spec of these turbo's. Are they .63 A/R compressor wheels? cheers Dave

Hi, I contacted John recently in regards to purchasing his stage 1 ceramic turbo for my S4s. He explained that he does not carry the parts anymore to build this turbo! Does anybody know the exact specs of his stage 1 turbo. I know it has mods done to the turbine houseing and runs a larger compressor wheel. Any ideas Cheers DAve

Hi Travis, They are Compbrake Pro 7's 4 pot fitted with 40 & 32mm pistons. I picked them up off ebay for £178 new, bargain, some guy have bought them new for a project and then never installed them. They are 130mm mounting centres and are used as an upgrade for some Porsches. The S300 had the same 130mm mounting centres. I picked up a pair of these rare brackets some time ago fro German ebay. Some grinding had to be done to the rear od the caliper to stop it fouling on the radius arm, but noting too major. I have to fabricate a 3mm spacer plate to go between the brake disc top hat and the hub to centralize the disc in the caliper. I have also dumped the stupid delco braking system. I have fitted a MR2 master and servo using a fabricated bracket. I'm in the process of fitting the vacuum line to the servo which has an Audi A6 vacuum res tank. I'm fitting a turbo bleed valve into the vacuum line along with a vacuum gauge. This is to adjust the amount of vacuum going to the servo so I can get the ideal amount of brake feel and brake assistance and can be gauged by the vacum gauge, in other wors adjustable vacuum assistance. It's all work in progress at the moment, heres a few pics before while I was test fitting the servo. Hi Nigel, Yea the workmate does look a bit shagged alright. Need me a new one.

Hi Nigel, Here's a few photos of what I've done and am doing to my S4s. I have replaced the old brembo setup. I have installed the s350 Ap discs 320 x 32 up front and 320 x 28 on the rear, and installed Ap 4 pot calipers up front. I have just carried a 4 pot caliper install on the rear. 40 and 32mm pistons mounted on S300 brackets which have been drilled out and rethreaded to M12 to suit the calipers. I will brake down the rear setup for cleaning and painting. bump

Hi Mike, I also have an S4s and I'm not happy with the standard of the brakes. I have fitted the s350 ap brakes all round including calipers and wanted to remove the ABS Delco system. Where are you getting your vacuum from to feed your SE servo? Was the SE servo a straight fit / what was involved in the conversion? Cheers in advance for any info / help on the above. Dave

Hi Gordan, Just did mine on my S4s at the wqeekend. DON'T GET RIPPED OFF BY LOTUS DEALERS ! I got the same rod ends / ball joints as Dave. 4 x M6 ball joints cost me 12 pounds including delivery off ebay and I got the two bearings from a local bearing shop for 7 euro for both. Total cost 20 euro! or 17 pounds, that means that some of the advertised suppliers are making at least a min of 35 pounds. These are standard parts from a bearing shop. I also changed my drive shaff seals. Got my seals from the same bearing shop. The 2 seals cost........wait for it.............10euro in total. cheers Dave

Paul, I replaced both coolers on my S4s. When trying to undo the hoses the connectors snapped off on the coolers. I got a hydraulic hose shop to make me up new braided ends for the crossover pipe. Rather than replaceing the supply and return pipes, I got the same shop to make me up new ends and joined them ontn the original supply and return pipes. This saved me havin to try ande install new pipes thru the chassis. As far as I'm aware you will have to remove the gear lever assembly to cut the cable ties holding the pipes to the chassis. I'm not sure if you will have much room either to pull the new hoses thru with the steering rack in position. Much easier to cut the originals 12" from the cooler and join in a new pipe. Cheers Dave

Hi Jez, I too have a S4s and was going to change the existing brake setup over to the servo assist as fitted to the later GT3's and v8's. Is this the system you have on your car? cheers Dave

Hi as far as I know its the same handbook hat covers the S4s. The handbook I got with my S4s covers the S4 fitted with Brembo breaks. Part No. AA82T0324J Cheers Dave

Wookie, I think I might have a rear crank oil seal leak on my S4s and was hoping to replace it by leaving the engine in situ. Why is it necessary to remove the sump? Cheers Dave