davevr6car

In no way carry out the repair by using jubilee type clips....I did this and it cost me an bottom end engine rebuild on my S4s.....and I used heavy duty bolt clips, 2 either side of the joint. Get Pirtek to come out and do the joint properly. I was travelling at about 90mph on the motorway and the joint came apart dumping most of the engine oil all over the road.....I did well not to loose the car.....and they had to close the lane way to clean up the oil. I ended up spinning a big end bearing, and nearly destroying the crank. Hand to get the crank re-ground and as it was using oversize bearing from the factory it was a nightmare to find the correct over oversize bearings to suit. Now I'm running braided hoses from engine to coolers.

Just get an engineering shop or even an alloy wheel repair shop to weld it

Currently Insurance companies and the police can download the ecu post incident....they don't need to wait till 2022. Most cars post 2016 have this facility

I'm thinking of doing the same with my wheels......what size rims did you go for?

Hi Barry, I be interested if you're willing to sell. What colour is your bumper and what condition? Cheers Dave

Hi all, does anyone know or have a S4s or V8 rear bumper for sale. Trying to source the original type rather than the aftermarket fibreglass type. Cheers Dave

Why not leave NI completly and there wouldn't have to be a hard boarder.

Buy a mechanical Stack boost gauge and plumb it into the boost circuit from the inlet manifold ...this will give you a real boost figure which you can compare to your electrical dash gauge.

Barry....I've 25mm spacers on the rear and 10mm on the front is my S4s without any issues...and really fills the arches out nicely. When I get to rebuild my wheels...this is what I'll be increasing the size of my rims by.

Looking very good Ian......you'll be amazed with the difference when you're finished. I used a manual vacuum pump in place were the aircon pump is......creates a lot of vacuum.....keep up the good work.

Just wondering if you could remove the oil sender and attach an oil pipe line and pump oil into the engine under pressure....this should get to all the needed parts and also prime the pump.....when you know the oil has circulated....turn the motor over

You could just search for the centre pieces and then buy new polished outer rims and inner barrels from this company.....www.felgenfuchs.de. I'll be rebuilding my wheels soon replacing my outer rims with new 1/2" wider rims this company.

My hub snapped while doing 80mph on the motorway on the way home from the UK on the day I collected it...the whole suspension on the drivers side collasped....fairly scary moment.....did well to keep it under control....took a while for the smell of poo to disappear from the cab

The rear brembo callers are the same ones used on the Renault espace

The standard lotus rides too high and looks strange, even odd with so much air between the top of the tyre and the wheel well......I lowered mine 25mm all round and it looks so much better and gives it a wider stance on the road.....my next setup will be the Nitron racing shocks.....the best out there....LOTAC are overpriced for what they are. I think the standard height is 160mm measured from the chassis to the road.

What I meant by the edu controlling it was......the ecu will not allow full power until the engine is up to temperature.....even on my old 95 S4s the ecu restricts the amount of boost until the engine is up to temperature

I presume the ecu controls this in modern cars

from memory my S4s flywheel didn't look like that......has that flywheel been lightened? I don't remember my flywheel having a radius step on it like yours.....I have heard because of the big difference in price...people swapping out the S4s flywheel and clutch assembly for the earlier SE and S4 assemblies.

The existing bracket can be adapted and if required and you can get a universal push rod from Demon Tweaks which can be cut to length and attach the original clevis to......just make sure you get the right thread pattern

Here's an idea of parts: Wilwood proportioning valve £101.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wilwood-Adjustable-Proportioning-Bias-Valve-Distribution-Block-Brake-Switch/280845940737?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Nissan Patrol master and servo 2nd hand £69..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-Y61-3-0-BRAKE-SERVO-MASTER-CYLINDER-VC05C-M245T-ZD30-1997-2013/132462468616?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3APatrol+GR&hash=item1ed760de08:g:PpUAAOSw5YNZtDh7 vacuum reservoir £12....... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A6-C5-C6-2-5-2-7-TDI-2000-2011-VACUUM-RESERVOIR-TANK-443131541/122703412864?epid=1709554742&hash=item1c91b17e80:g:0BgAAOSwT~ZZtlb4 manual bleed valve £10...... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-Manual-Car-Turbo-Boost-Valve-Controller-Booster-Kits-Universal-Blue-C/263384634437?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49129%26meid%3Da04a6f6bbb4f40a88a640f7ebd707ac3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152245941293&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 vacuum gauge £13...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-2-Car-Auto-30-0-In-Hg-Vacuum-Boost-Gauge-Pointer-Meter-Smoke-Lens-White/112595498210?hash=item1a3736f4e2:g:80MAAOSwYkBZ22ru mechanical lotus vacuum pump new £69.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cardone-Industries-64-1006-Vacuum-Pump/131704688831?epid=76188755&hash=item1eaa3610bf:m:m0gtBnOetxiJlHHDKEKAfqA The above is an idea of what you need.....you will need some brake pipe fittings......vacuum pipe and some other small bits....but for £300 or so you'll have your conversion.

I really do think people are over thinking this conversion.......the best thing is to find the biggest master and servo that will fit in the current location....the rest can be adjusted thru....pressure switches or bleed valves......and you can install a brake bias valve to control the pressure going to the front and rears...this will give great adjustment to your type of driving. This is why I fitted the Nissan Patrol mater and servo.......if its good enough to stop a 2 ton 4 x 4 then it'll stop an Esprit. '

I agree with Mike, in regards to the correct amount of vacuum been supplied. When I did my conversion first on my S4s I used the Mr2 servo connected to an original SE vacuum pump. It made shite of the servo....too much vacuum. On my 2nd attempt I used a nissan patrol servo unit with a manual turbo bleed valve and an inline vacuum gauge.....this let me adjust the amount of vacuum going to the servo.....in other words I could adjust the amount of servo assist going to the brakes. The other thing to remember is to have a vacuum reservoir... if you loose engine power you'll have no vacuum....the same with an electric vacuum pump....if you loose electrical power, you'll have no vacuum......so I fitted an Audi A6 vacuum reservoir. Its not the hardest job to do to an Esprit.....but it's a completely different car once converted......you'll never look back........probably the best upgrade you can do to an Esprit!

I did this up grade years ago.......removed the ABS system.......removed the aircon pump and in its place is the earlier type vacuum pump from an SE. I'm running a nissan patrol servo and master cylinder. I also installed an audi vacuum accumulator with a couple of non return valves. The vacuum supply system also has a turbo bleed valve and vacuum gauge fitted so I can adjust the amount of vacuum assist. I have the S350 callipers and discs up front, S350 rear discs using the original brembo calliper as the handbrake and a set of 4 piston callipers for main rear brakes which are mounted on the S300 brackets. Its a great set up which changes the car completely.

Ditch this useless system and go servo with vacuum assist and you'll never look back.

the S4s 's flywheel is also stepped by about 1-2mm this is why you have to be careful if your going to get the face of the flywheel machined....and thats why the bolt pattern is different.....there's no reason why the friction plate and pressure plate can't be refurbed.....