ekwan

eBay will probably cast a much wider net.

WInged dzus fasteners???

Can I add to the above that the recommended 3 to 4mm reduction in the sleeve length usually falls below the thickness of the bulkhead plywood. As the wood is liable to further shrinking, there is a chance (with vibration) the securing nuts could work loose. I replaced mine with self-locking nuts, so it would be a simple matter of nipping them up slightly should the dreaded rattle return in future.

I previously used the Liqui Moly KFS-11 which is a pure ethylene glygol based product. But recently, I have gone on to use the latest KFS-12++ or KFS-13 coolants which are compatible with the older glycol based coolants with the added advantage of a longer life of 5 years instead of the normal 2 years. I understand that these products are made to be similar in performance to VW-Audi's factory coolant of the same numbers, namely the G12+ and the G13. The latter might be more easily obtainable in the UK. I also use the Liqui Moly radiator flush.

That's the fuel inlet. I wouldn't even start the car if I were you, let alone drive it.

They are also available from SJ Sports Cars for around £12 a piece. You need to cut them with a scalpel sharp knife and squarely for them to give any decent light so it might not be worth the savings for anything else. Having said that, 90% of lighting issues are due to the internal reflector of the light source breaking away.

But for the time being, the only caster adjustment for Esprit is fore-aft only, achieved by shimming.

In a nutshell yes. For, a layman perhaps, for the uninitiated, no.

Caster adjustment is about the fore-aft position of the wheel, and after adjustments/shimming is to ensure that the wheel is in the correct position and the components are under as little stress possible.

......assuming the geo shop knows the peculiarities of an Esprit.

Heater bypass?

Errrrmmmm............On the front, you must have 1.5mm shim on the front and rear of the upper wishbones. That's now 3mm of shims (1.5+1.5) + the 3mm gives a total of 6mm. If you need to exceed this 6mm total to correct the caster, then you need the additional shim at the ball joint of the same additional thickness beyond the 6mm I believe the instructions will be found on the workshop manual on the page preceding the diagram that you scanned.

Yes. But you replace everything as you found them, measure then adjust as necessary instead of shooting at unknown targets in the dark.

You don’t move anything until you have measured your suspension geometry beforehand. ............not unless you enjoy doing work for nil benefit.

Part no. 27 should not require removal or swapping under normal circumstances unless you have chassis damage & repair from a heavy accident etc. The shims are used to obtain a rough toe-in adjustment, then the shims (washers) part. no. 37 are moved around to obtain a final toe-in adjustment. Lotus lists a total of 10 shims for the rear suspension i.e 5 pieces for each side. Should you have all 5 shims either under the radius arm, or beneath the lock-nut and you find that the correct toe-in values cannot be achieved, then only would you change part no. 27 to obtain the rough toe-in required. Part no. 27 is only changed as a last resort. IIRC more shims (part no. 37) between the radius arm and snubber washer increases toe-in and vice versa for fewer shims.

907 and 912 (2.0L & 2.2L) NA engines had DHLA45's 910 (2.2L) Turbo UK cars standard compression had DHLA40's 910 (2.2L) Turbo HC and USA cars had DHLA45's

I think he means part no. 10 for the RHS door

You have to watch out for the acceleration pump diaphragms, I believe the rod-ends on these might different for Lotus cars. I know for a fact, the one supplied for the DHLA45E are definitely specific for Lotus 2.2 engines.

The barrel sizes would be different. I believe the aux venturis are of a different design between the 40s & 45s. Also the choke sizes for the 40s range from 25-37mm. The choke sizes for the 45s range from 28mm-40mm. Even though there is an huge overlap in choke sizes, they are different for both 40s and 45s due to the difference in the external diameter needed to fit the smaller or larger barrels respectively.

At £6 for a new item, doesn't bear thinking about any further......

I am sure there are places in the UK that specialise in supplying hydraulic equipment. They should be able to make you aircon hoses to whatever length that is required. I almost never buy "off the shelf" oil cooler, aircon, power steering hoses as they are so readily custom fabricated.

I believe almost all cars have 2 Otter switches, one at the front and the other at the rear but only one connected. I can never figure out which is which. Any idea?

Unfortunately, I believe Kenlowe went out of business years ago.