Steve4012

My fuel pump seemingly failed. I had an old spare that was functioning when removed so short term I put this on and all was fine for a bout 2 days before this did the same thing. I had voltage at the pump terminals but just got a 'thump' at the fuel pump when ignition turned fully on. Thinking I was unlucky I bought a new pump. Same one as I put on my dry sump which works perfectly. All fine for a couple of weeks but now it's done the same! It can't be 3 faulty pumps inc. one new one. 2 of the fuel pumps were noisy before failure inc the new one. Looking more closely I have found I only have 7v at the pump terminals. So far I've tried and failed on disconnected rev limiter, beefed up ground by adding jump cable to negative of battery, the trip switch seems fine and this also trips ignition but the car still has spark and fires on the fuel left so I think rules this out too. Engine has been out and fuel tanks too which are spotless inside. New fuel filter 300 miles ago and all new fuel pipes at same time. Any suggestions on why the voltage drop to just the fuel pump (battery fine and cranks car easily) and can this be confirmed as to why the fuel pump just thumps instead of whirring and were noisy before failure? I don't think there is a relay(?) and fuses in glove box all look fine but these would surely be good or bad not 7v Thanks for any help in advance, Steve.

Thanks Fabian, all sorted and sealed back up👍

Ah..that makes perfect sense! Thanks very much Pete.

I've had to reseal the rear gearbox cover on my 85 turbo but can't get the speedo drive to stay put in the plastic housing. The pic shows it's already fallen partially out and keeps dropping fully out so I can't take the risk and reseal the cover. Should there be an o ring on the spindle? Doesn't show anything in the parts manual but I can't see how it would stay in otherwise. Maybe @Lotusfab can help as I know you've got yours apart presently...

Ok just to conclude this @Andyww is absolutely correct in saying that oil will leak out of the distributor if a Powerspark is fitted! It took a while but once it started it was quite a lot so back to original now.

Are Oetiker clamps good for this application?

Sad to see that John's car is now up for sale as an executor sale by his brother. I didn't know John, but read many of his postings on TLF when researching prior to buying my turbo esprit a few years back. Always sound, sensible advice with a touch of humour and I know from various threads his opinion was highly respected. RIP John.

Enjoyed that drive home tonight 😃

Fred Davies owned my dry sump for 28 years @Andyww. He only sold it due to being diagnosed with Alzheimers and sadly passed away late last year. I had a very nice phone conversation with him about a year ago. He seemed like a real character and certainly had a great interest in his old car.

Fabian, I've recently had this conversation with Steve at SJ about my 85 turbo that I currently have the engine out of. It has a stamp on the bellhousing indicating it should have one shim in the bottom two bolt holes but there were none present. He said when the engine is back in and the gearbox reattached (I do mine separately) measure the gap between sump and engine and calculate how many shims you need (details in the manual). Remove bottom two bolts, slide shims in and reinsert bolts. This may be easier than wrestling with the gearbox out of the car. I know the manual has a procedure for a new sump but not sure why the above couldn't be done. Steve said this is how they measured it at the factory before stamping shim requirements on the bellhousing.

Is this not the car that has recently sold (SimonF?) with the red louvres having been painted back to standard black?

Have you found the handbrake to be any better?

Yes but it if I remember correctly I only had two? I know I had to re use one or two others when I found the wrong quantity of a particular size. It was all a bit frustrating for a kit that costs around £100.

No I kept the originals.

I found exactly the same as you with the rebuild kit from Eurocarb Fabian. It wouldn't take much to get these identified and organised just once and send a copy with each order.

Ah sorry, didn't realise they were vertical on an S2!

Which way round do you have the alloy coolant pipe that houses otter switch? Otter should point down otherwise air can be trapped under the switch.

I put a new accuspark distributor and viper coil on my dry sump. I've only done a couple of hundred miles with it but no leaks and car runs perfectly.

Fabian, when doing my dry sump I found the seals went on the crank easily with plenty of lubrication. It was a job I was fearing to be difficult but was far easier than I imagined and importantly no leaks!

Yes you can connect the manometer without removing plenum. I put the connectors into a piece of plastic tubing to stop dropping them and use the tube to get it started into the thread before tightening with screwdriver. Cylinder 3 is tricky but perfectly doable. Steve.

Thanks gents for the confirmation. I've learnt to accelerate with one eye on the gauge and one on the road! I'll look at the road more in future☺

Hi all. When I'm on full boost with the boost gauge needle vertical as it should be and then change gear I get a momentary flicker of the gauge needle to around 2 to 3 o'clock on the gauge. It's just an instant and doesn't stay there. The wastegate has been dismantled/ rebuilt as part of the rebuild and holds the boost steady until I depress the clutch/ come off throttle. I actually have this on both my G Turbo's so pretty sure it's normal but would appreciate confirmation. The blow off valve on the plenum is also fully functioning with the plunger moving freely. I'm thinking it's a momentary crossover between closing throttle and the blow off valve venting the excess pressure? Thanks in advance, Steve.

Thanks very much Sparky 👍

Can anyone tell me if the gearbox will come out with the turbo in situ? The bolts from turbo to aux manifold are not playing ball and I need to lift engine and 'box separately to take it easy on my DIY hoist. I can then deal with troublesome bolts when the engine is out. Thanks in advance, Steve.

Delighted to say my dry sump PTO 188X mentioned earlier in this thread, has now completed its 15 month mechanical restoration and passed its mot today first time! Now back on the road after a six year lay off 🙂