Craig Red Evora

The worst part is getting the springs back on as they are very powerful. Make sure you put the adjuster back in the correct way round as it will come out with the pads.

Depending on how handy you are you can replace the LEDs on the disc yourself. I bought 2 packs of LED's from RS (7031212). You can remove the disc through the light bulb aperture of the headlight without the need to split it. Cut the old LED's off, easier and safer than trying to de-solder, then remove what's left with the soldering iron and fit the new ones. It is VERY fiddly and you need patience but all LED's replaced for £4.20 plus VAT and a few hours of my time. I do have some specific tools to help and developed a technique after doing the first one though.

I have had an issue with my NA where if the fluid overheats the pedal becomes really heavy and the bite point moves right to the top of the pedal travel. All returns to normal when the car cools down and then comes back on the next journey when things warm up. This is despite having the extra heat shielding on the slave cylinder pipe from Lotus. I have since added some extra and fingers crossed it hasn't come back. A bleed of the system (the fluid is very dark and full of bubbles) restores the lighter pedal and bite point position, might be something to try if it hasn't been already.

Hi Bruce The simplest way is to get someone to activate the headlight washers (headlights on, press the windscreen washer button 5 times) and when it pops up you grab it. The covers just clip on so are really easy to swap. The washer rises with water pressure so holding them up doesn't do any harm. The spring is surprisingly strong so it isn't comfortable, you might want to wear a glove. Craig.

Hi Anthony It isn't actually an LED strip rather a length of clear plastic/rubber that is end lit by an LED in a black plastic cup. It is possible the cup has fallen off the end of the plastic and is illuminating the inside of the dashboard instead.

They just got painted as trying to replace would be too difficult due to the three dimensional shape. I had brush painted them before but it was really time consuming and there was always the danger of the grill scraping the paint off the brush into a blob which drips. This time I masked up all the surrounding paint work, gave them a good wire brushing and then painted using a small foam emulsion roller. As long as you don't overload the roller the paint goes on really nicely and it takes a fraction of the time.

Having sorted the grills on the top of the car I started looking at the front bumper. I repainted one of the small side ones but still wasn't happy. I also knew that eventually I would have to do the whole thing again so looked for an alternative that I wouldn't have to keep repainting. Found a plastic version on Amazon which whilst not being the highest quality moulding looks pretty good on the car I think, definitely more modern, and lighter too. I need to sort the cut out for the towing eye but the front of the car is coming apart again soon for a new radiator/bumper bracket repair so can either do it then or just carry a set of wire cutters and if I ever need to use the towing eye cut the hole. For anyone interested it was under £18 for enough to do the whole front bumper.

Got my order a couple of weeks ago and finally managed to do my drivers seat. Very impressed and despite having done the whole seat have plenty left. They kept my sample on file so anyone asking for Oyster for a Lotus Evora should get a good match.

Hello Resurrecting this thread to confirm it is totally possible to remove the sidelight board without dismantling the headlight as described by rabidh above. I repaired mine a couple of weeks ago. I had two failed LED's which I replaced with ones from RS, 703-1212. They are a bit brighter so I ended up replacing all 10, then as that sidelight didn't match the other one, replaced all of those as well! It's fiddly but cost a total of £5 to have all the LED's working and a bit brighter too. To get the old ones off the board I found it was better to cut them just above the solder on each side diagonally down to the board with a sharp knife and then remove what was left with a soldering iron. Trying to un-solder them intact just wasn't working and I was in danger of damaging the board. Hopefully anyone with failed LED's that is handy with a soldering iron can try this fix, alternatively complete board are now available to buy I believe.

So the radiator in the link I posted has a 34mm core whereas the Evora one is 42mm so that's not going to be any good. Might have to bite the bullet and order from DeRoure, £480 is a lot though.

That would be ideal but as the car is my daily driver I can't have it off the road for too long. It would be a nightmare to take the front of the car off only to find it doesn't fit and have to put everything back together only to repeat another day. But as you say a massive saving is if does fit.....

Not sure exactly but this looks similar. Also I don't know the dimensions of the Evora one to compare. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-TO-FIT-VAUXHALL-FRONTERA-A-MK1-PETROL-TURBO-DIESEL-MONTEREY-A-MK1-/292266027371?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Hello Did anyone discover if the radiator is the same as a Vauxhall Frontera? Is there any sort of visible part number on the ones people have removed? I need to replace mine and would have gone for the all alloy Elise shop one but Brexit is going to make it fairly pricey, albeit cheaper than the standard Lotus one and it running cooler might be an issue as my Evora is my daily driver and is used all year round. Looking at images online one model year of the Frontera radiator does look identical and is a hell of a lot cheaper.

Hello, you do know that you have to double press the unlock button for the passenger side? They don't both open at the same time. Just in case you hadn't realised and the time it did work was an accidental double press.

Does the dash mimic show that the door is open? I had similar window behaviour and it was the door latch. The car thought the door was still shut. A good squirt of WD40 and operating the latch with a screwdriver a few times cured the problem. I could also make it do the strange window jumping behaviour by closing the latch slowly, it reached a certain point and would go crazy. A cheep fix and much better than hundreds for a window regulator, good luck.