andyblackman777

Did they do other work as well? There is no reason to remove the plenum or disturb any wiring to change Cambelts.

The bit about the wiring being to close to the sensors sounds odd? I ask them to expand on that. Sounds more like the cam timing being out causing rough running. why did you think it was electrical? Did it throw up any fault codes at the time??

Did you pay? Ive heard nothing from them??

Thomas, They have asked to borrow a spare engine I have to make the boost pipes. so hopefully they will contact me soon for that. Originally the lotus boost pipe was modified. Yes they basically re used the ends of the originals.The plan was, and people did, send in their boost pipes to be modified, (never happened). From my understanding from Alex this was still the case, however it now sounds like they are making the complete cold side pipe. Shame they don't want to make that short piece off the turbo. I guess its an odd shape so would be hard to form.

Well that sounds like good news. I don’t understand his comment regarding the cold side boost pipe. From what I understand that is the complex part. The hot side is pretty much a straight pipe of the turbo by the looks of it……

That will definitely help. If he knows it’s a definite 3.

I think they will eventually produce it but I feel it’s something they are using to fill any spare time they have between other jobs. Chris has really been pushing them. Hopefully they will contact me soon, so I can take them an engine to make the boost pipe pattern. After that hopefully not to long

Well from my phone conversation a few weeks ago. , Its promised again for mid-late June... Yes mike no radiator included However they haven't started yet and they need my car/ engine to make a pattern for the Boost pipes. Also sheet metal work has been delayed at the laser cutters and the fabrication/powder coating and pressure testing is very time-consuming. Good news is they do have the charge cooler cores 👍. I'm not confident

As above on Mikes post. turbo dynamics did mine came back like new. were properly knackered when I sent them.

I got away without using it. imperceivable movement in the shaft, the one that was doing the rounds had some missing shims so wouldn't necessarily work anyway, if the shaft is moving up and down a lot then this would be required I guess.

I just rebuilt mine last year. You don't need the injector alignment plate, The IMS shaft alignment plate for setting the chain tension is unavailable, I found that here was no perceivable vertical play/movement in this shaft, which in my opinion made the purpose of this tool unnecessary. I guess a nice to have but not essential. Cam lock blocks for initial timing setting, you can getaway without these, they are only used to hold the cams in the setting position while rotating the engine to the correct position. I found some thin paper under a couple of the cam caps enough to do this. Finally tightening is done with a spanner holding the cam still. you need : The Service notes. Flywheel locking tool I used this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295480531769?_skw=1x+Sealey+Flywheel+Locking+Tool+Renault+Petrol%2FDiesel+-+VSE2395&epid=23017013628&itmmeta=01JTFV690889V7WNGDQMJCQR8Z&hash=item44cc031b39:g:Nn0AAOSwdG5jySCj&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABIFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cTgH%2BWMAirYsxbeOQaDEu%2FMiGI0laHAj6Y8afnFD3LUC2Sle0GjgGpGX%2BGxZFGgggGH%2F%2BBxjYPYYo%2FwvR%2FDsQhm37IuN3lGDHdu2%2FA7U%2FkuAvFRs6VGlf2wUxFh6haTwtDh%2FAnGxO3ca%2BMdNpU32HJn%2BmuVnhfQ7QAjXpI4o5prHxnXrnPV4py7Bn4awgqamv9aN0goS2fg2Zu7CP8wIrPNqKHJf9pFYnyGUY9apHqKQSphX2rVwaon5CpxWJ3w3Q0zwMpKvxs4oDULMg6fW9iHdEy7ezfw9C9R3BTnrdLUfYXNGPdQH9X%2B0pYR892w385JpX3ywJMdKDs41TWhX2qq5nauSNJaMtnmrvxEZMORg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMopCZ-9Nl Liner puller. Main bearing cap puller, I used some long u bolts and a square section bar. Front cover alignment Dolly Cam timing kit from PNM, I made a peg tool for the tensioner adjustment. A proper engineering straightedge to check liner stand in and head? block flatness etc. A decent set of micrometers and bore gauges for measuring all your clearances. Bolts...... re use or not. up to you! Big end bolts I would replace. They are as expensive as a new rod which comes with them, £120 for 3 bolts or £124 for the rod and two bolts?! I was lucky enough to get the last set of custom made ones from Mike S for £500. Main Cap bolts I reused Head Bolts are reusable if not stretched. service bulletin update for this If you decide on some ARP head studs, these are custom made for JAE in usa to their specs, I had a nightmare with these. you'll find my post on this forum section. ( washer slippage). however if I was to build again I would use these now I know the pitfalls. I used some new OEM pistons and liners from SJ sports cars. These were matched sets. FYI. All the clearances were correct including ring gaps, Use all the correct liner sealants and cover/pan sealants. Loctite 5910 for sealing of all castings where oil is present. Hylomar 3400 for the liners, loctite 572 for cam pulleys its bolt. While your there drill there IMS shaft for a key to stop it spinning if the bolt loosens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Uvg2Jg2c_U Pancho pioneered this . Take of the EGR and Air injection and blank the drillings in the heads for the Air injection. Get a decent machine shop to re-cut your valve sets and adjust valve back heights. This was a bargain in my view. ( classic and modern in Bracknell ) so good that lapping not necessary Gaskets... Got mine from SJ and their own gaskets appear the same as the original lotus ones, made by the same company same thickness etc. I had two new originals probably the last ones on the planet and one was slightly damages so had to use their own gasket on one side. I couldn't tell the difference. Same for cam belts. Hope that helps

That is strange to say the least..............

Seems odd they just don’t respond at all?? Not even an acknowledgement they are busy or something. Very strange.

Not heard a thing! I’ll get on it. I wish he would just respond to my emails….

Also Check your secondary injectors. I had an o ring leak and massively over fuel the engine.