andyblackman777

Thanks guys, I was looking to replace the starter, it works ok but is old and I have everything apart. Engine is out of the car. A new OEM one from SJ is £300 and this one is £360 plus the vat so only another £60 extra. maybe i'll look at getting the original rebuilt

has anyone fitted one of these? https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/lotus-esprit-v8 I was wondering if it was any better than the stock one Cheers

That is on the forum somewhere I remember Mike S putting up the dimensions of those tools a while back now

Yes they're not cheap to rebuild as I'm finding out! I need a clutch too. The mot guy burned it out a few years back getting it off the brake rollers, not been right since then. Just figuring out the best way to go with that. JAE sell a Clutchmasters clutch kit, apparently a good upgrade. haven't asked for a price yet......

looks mint Steve. Is it in the car yet?? Dave I took mine out and did it slowly in a pillar drill, used a 10mm thick steel guide too. I think to do it on the engine with a hand drill at least a 20mm thick guide plate. I used a 5mm drill and cut the shank off to use as a pin afterwards

Thanks Guys. The hard line is in good condition so I think I"ll leave it, As Steve says the braided hose is just plastic with braid on the outside. originally when I saw the red hose from the master cylinder I assumed it was longer than 300mm!! Hence my purchase of the braided line some years ago now.

I have a full length braided clutch hose from SJ. I am in a position now to install it. I was wondering whether to run it through the chassis where the oil and water pipes go, as opposed to externally under the body. The other option would be just to replace the short plastic section from the master cylinder. There is about 300mm of red hose then hardline all the way to the back. I could get a custom braided hose just to replace this, I'm thinking that would be a better option. Thoughts? Cheers Andy Ps I'm changing the oil lines and have the engine out so have good access.

Hi, Has any one tried water meth injection to keep the charge temps down??

Yes I did wonder if it was due to lack of use. Or the Gauge......

Erick That's what I thought could be the problem but alas it wasn't. first thing I checked. easy job with the engine out. tolerance pins fitted with the crank Locked against the marked vane. Also if this was the case the air would be escaping from the valves on the leak down test.

Yes wide open throttle. I did both, while it was in the car, all between 100 and 120 best. the hot ones were not much different. Odd now they seem better when its out of the car and stone cold. I assumed it was maybe on the way out and only did the leak down to see where the air was leaking from. When the leak down didn't seem to bad I though id re check the compression and it was 20 % higher on all cylinders.

Hi all , I'm after a bit of advice, I've pulled the engine out of my car to do some work which requires its removal. The engine runs perfectly. Before I did this I ran a compression check which showed all cylinders evenly low, which is bad. Now the engine is removed I performed a leak down test this shows on between 5-10 percent leakage on all cylinders, which is good/ok. I then performed another compression check now I'm getting 125 on all 4 on the left bank and 130 on 3 and 140 on the remaining cylinder on the right bank. Should be 150 +/- 10 % Now I'm in two minds as what to do. leave it or rebuild it. Bear in mind I have another engine stripped that I was going to rebuild and swap with the current engine. Plus is 3-4k just on bolts, gaskets and bearings if nothing needs replacing! Im tempted to do what I originally planned and put this motor back in the car. Hmm Thoughts Cheers Andy

So I had the information all along........ I'd forgotten that the service notes have some specifications at the very beginning. - piston/liner clearance 0.010 - 0.039 mm (0.0004 - 0.0015 in) Sounds tight but I guess that is correct. Thoughts??

Mine was doing that and it was ok at first showed good charge etc but then eventually started to misfire. changed alternator all fixed. failing that could be a bad earth somewhere??

New liners and pistons would be the way to go. If there was no oval I would probably just run a glaze breaker through and assemble with new rings. I only need stock pistons so it would be nice to know what the clearances should be before assembly. The service notes only have the range of sizes the components should be not a specific clearance .