fjmuurling

Problem solved. It was the vacuum switch for the mode/fresh air flap wich was (slightly) out of "height" [Parts Manual 18.11A item 20]. Glued it back into the bracket (finding the right height was a bit challenging).

Thanks for the info Tom. A quick search with the GM partnumber revealed a couple of local (my side of the channel) suppliers.

I'm curious about yout trunk switch. Any pointers as where to buy or from what car?

Thanks for the pointers. Somehow I oversaw Section PD in the WSM . Thanks for the offer Filip, but it is in my WSM. The vacuum check with the "help" of the circ/recirc valve is an easy one in general that is wat I normally do. If that one stays open for a long time after switching of the engine than the vacuum system should have no leaks.

Old original one (AFAIK) which I took out last year. The chamfering is cleary visible. The function of the split spacer is to avoid putting an axial load on the 2 lugs of the hub carrier when tightening things up.

I have a problem with the front screen demisting and the heating of the cabin. There is no way I can get an airflow out of the 2 screen demist ventilation openings nor can I heat the cabin. So far I have checked the following: vacuum hoses and assorted rubber reducers/elbows were replaced years ago by silicone vacuum tubing. recirclation / fresh air flap is working. The 2 control knobs with the 2 bowden cables are working. (when I turn them the inner parts of the cables move) various linkages as far as i can see (took the centre console out) are also working. I can see that the vacuum valve is being operated by the cam Coolant level is fine No apparant vacuum leaks (brakes are working fine). With the fan running I can only get air out of the cabin vents. Can anybody tell me what is supposed to be going in the "airbox". i know there are some flaps inside but the workings (despite having the parts manual) elude me. Any other ideas etc are more than welcome.

or red or blue

Check the marking on the flywheel. It is behind a rubber cover on the TOP right side of the bell housing. A second best option is the small notch on the crankshaft pulley. Cylinder 1 is in TDC firing when the dimples on the camshaft pulleys are pointing to each other.

Here you have a servicemanual for the Sanden compressors SD_Service_Guide_Rev.2.pdf

Due to R134 and R12 being different gasses you need to change "some" parts which are suitable for R134a all hoses receiver drier and prussure switch thermal expansion valve, with one adaptor to fit the valve to the evaporator. New tartape in order to repack the new expansion valve. Flush condensor (getting rid of R12 Oil) Compressor, I fitted an SD514 add 2 service ports to the hoses As the connections on the new sanden compressor where radialy mounted you need 2 "short" 90 deg hoseconnectors Fill the system with R134a and maybe some additional oil (usually there is an amount of oil in the new compressor) It cools the cabin more than OK, but I have no camparison against a working R12 system. (In my opinion the glass sunroof also does marvels for putting heat into the cabin) Big job but doable, hardest part is removing / routing the hoses through the sill cover (just remove it and refit) and under the fueltank.

The AC compressor can be fitted after the engine is installed. In fact you can take out the engine leaving the AC compressor in the engine bay with the AC hoses connected. I did it myself a couple of years back when I converted the non working R12 system into a R134a system.

Yep I got them, picked them up last sunday at the post office dropoff point. Forgot to post it here, but i send a message to A(ira)lex. Now I need time to fit them 🤔 and make some blanks for the ABS holes. (or fit a couple of old ABS sensors and blank of the electrical plugs).

Just measured on my 1990 SE, the stripe is 3 mm in width.

Speedy Cables | Automotive Instrument Repair - Mechanical Cables

I saw this Esprit V8 at the Audi Regiosprint 2023 yesterday.

Saw this elan yesterday.

Be careful with swapping relais. The brown one has a "protection" resistor build in across the coil which kills the inductive voltage created when the coil is switched off and thus protection the driving circuit against the high inductive voltages.

I got an email from Alex (Aira) that the uprights are finished and ready for shipping. 😃

thanks Mike

Just curious, is there also a picture from one of the RH uprights with the VSS holes.

My version.

@mike_sekinger there might be one set unallocated....................................

Thanks for all the information.

Hi Mike @mike_sekinger, can you give us an (small) update? I know you are on top of things but nevertheless every snippet of information is welcome.

Hi Grahame, Until know no luck with finding the right paintcode ☹️