fjmuurling

After testing USB Serial adapters without success I bought a PCMCIA Com card (Quatech SSP-100) and all works fine now on my IBM Laptop. Freek

Thanks all info, I live in the Netherlands so not close by thanks for the offer for the sound test. I don't want to decat my car so I will fit a new cat (Larini sports cat or similar). 108.8 Db is loud Nick should be awesome but maybe a bit to loud for me but you have the Larini exhaust without the cat. Jonathan if you can mail me the sound file I would appreciate this very much. Thanks Freek By the way I'm not going for the dual exit pipe system.

Do you have the Service notes section EMH (Electronic M.P.F. with Charge Cooler )?? In section 4 are the diagrams with all the pinnumbers for the ECM as well as the layout of the pins of the 4 connectors. My scanner is inoperative maybe someone has these pages already scanned in. Freek

Can somebody describe the sound of a Larini silincer compared to a stock exhaust. I'm considering replacing the stock exhaust for a StSt Larini system but I heard that the larini system is LOUD. Freek.

If you clip something on the belt it will change the weight and therefore also the frequency. The frequency depends on the mass of the belt, the free length and the tension. Freek

Hai Travis, Any progress yet, I'm really anxious to know the outcome. Freek

I used the marks on the front of the engine, there is a small groove in the v-belt pulley and a small kind of flange on the engine with 10, 20 and 30 deg (BTC) markings. You need the 30 deg BTC mark if you tension the cambelt with the microphone etc. Furthermore before taking off the cambelt (cylinder 1 in TDC and the coloured dots on the cam sprockets pointing to eachother) i marked the belt and sprockets as well as the sprocket on the crankshaft with a small paintmarker after which i transferred the markings of the old belt to the new belt. Freek

It's not that difficult to do but it takes some time to do it the first time, acces is limited with the engine in the car but it is very good possible to do it yourself (depending on your technical skills). I did mine last winter (1990 SE) as part of an almost full C service. I only modified 2 pieces of tools namely a hexagon wrench (needed to be a bit shorter for loosening the vacuum pump) and a 19 mm ring spanner needed a different angle (blow torch and vice for modifying, needed for tension roller adjustment). Furthermore in addition to the normal tools you need some torque wrenches and the car needs to be of the ground for acces from below. In order to adjust the belt tension i used a laptop with some software (Tunie!it 3.40) and a microphone (some topics ago "cambelt tension"). If you do the cambelt then also change the other V-belts aswell as the roller bearing for the tensioner. Hope this helps and if you need more info let me know. Freek.

How about yourself ?????????

Travis will you let us know the outcome of the checking of tune!it with your hightech equipment. Freek.

Don'nt use a very cheap microphone, it needs to be sensitive and able to detect low frequencies. Mine costed a bit less than 20 euro. Freek

I have don't the burroughs gauge and i tried to order the kriket one about 5 months ago at my local gates dealer but without result, so i can't compare it for you. The initial setting was performed (when fitting a new belt) by means of twisting the belt (a little bit less than 90 deg.) between the inletcam and the aux cam. When checking the belt after aprox 1000 km the frequency was about 73 Hz. which was too low, however in order to set the belt tension on spec again a marginal tightening of the cambelt tensioner was needed. It took me about 8 times of getting under the car and getting back up again. The distance from the belt to the microphone was about 7 mm and almost in the middle between the two sprockets. The belt was only lightly tapped by means of socket head screwdriver. As for the sound i know a properly adjusted belt has to "sing"a little bit when running but i didn't notice it maybe it is because i don't know what to listen for. All I can tell is that the whole seems to run better and smoother. Freek

Hello, Last week i performed some maintenance on my car and the cambelttension needed to be checked (replaced it about 1000 km ago). The initial method I used to tension the belt was the twist and turn one but I never felt really happy with it. So I went looking for a burrough's gauge without results. After an email to Lotus (very quick reply) I got an pdf file with a new method of tensioning the cambelt on 4 cylinder engines, it meant using a clavis gauge which is very expensive (around 600 pounds). A gates SST 1 does the dame job as the clavis gauge but doesn't display the frequency and still costs around 400 euro. After reading some posts in the V8 section I came across a piece of tuner software for musical instruments. I bought a good microphone, downloaded the software and installed it on my Laptop and guess what it worked great (see the attached pictures). The program is called Tune!It 3.40 and the microphone I used is one from Trust, and of course you need a Laptop or Computer with a soundcard. See the attached pdf file on how to tension the belt. To make a long story short I just wanted to share this information with all of you and I hope you find it usefull. sn_ef_p18a.pdf Freek

The markings were really there, the B and the C were stamped next to the holes. I was about to mark the right hole when replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder when i saw them. I removed the drivers seat in order to gain better access. Spotting the marks was not that difficult compared to getting the clevis pin in with the wavy washers. Good luck and if you need any advice let me know. Freek

In my car the holes are marked B (brake) and C (clutch). Freek

Just make sure that the spring didn't do any damage to the piston and or bore otherwise you need a new mastercylinder. The only solution is to take out the mastercylinder and open it up to check, it looks like the spring is jamming things. Freek

My car has it also sometimes, it is the clevis pin which attaches the fork of the mastercylinder to the pedal. The hole in the pedal is a little bit worn, try lubricating it a little bit. Freek

Take a look at the ramspott & brandt website ( http://www.ramspott-brandt.de ), they sell one type of slave which is for the 4 cylinders and '96 and '97 V8. On my Turbo SE the old slave had the spring and the new one is also spring loaded. Hope this helps Freek

Just something to add about the orifice. The size of the hole determines how fast the sensor will react to pressure fluctuations, so a small orifice means that the sensor is less responsive to (small) pressure fluctuations and therefore the needle in the gauge is more steady. A bigger hole means a quiker reaction time but a less steady needle. Freek

Update on car stops when running Installed a new relay and cleaned the contacts (which were still very good) two days ago and the car ran fine after that. However the same thing happened today again and now I know what is wrong. The fuel cutoff inertia switch is causing the trouble, the fuel relay is being energized when it needs to be. So when i bypassed the inertia switch (with a paperclip in the connector, temporally repair on a parking place) the fuel pump came to life again. Ordered a new inertia switch which will be arriving the end of next week. The faulty inertia switch didn't show that it was set (the knob on top comes up which has a red shaft when the switch is set by a heavy bump like in an accident). Freek

Thanks Travis for quick reply, tomorrow i will buy some good contact cleaner and check the voltages and also follow the apropiate section in the EMH manual and hookup freescan to check the voltage the ECM sees. Freek

Hello, I took the car (1990 Turbos SE) for a drive today to pick up some engine oil (about 90 km from my home). Bought the oil and started cruising again and decided to take a detour on my way home. The car was absolutely running fine. After aprox 80 km the car died and i pulled over. Checked for leakages etc and waited a couple of minutes before restarting. After restarting the car i had the same problem again after less than 1 km. I looked like fuel starvation but the tanks were about half full. I did the following: * Found out that i couldn't hear the fuel pump running. * Checked fuel pump fuse was ok however changed with a new one, still no fuel pump running and not possible to start. * set and reset the fuel inertia switch a couple of times (which i also did the first time as the road was quite bumpy) without result. *Changed the fuel pump relay for one of the aircon relays, guess what no result. *Opened up the fuel pump relay (still looked very good on the inside, no corrosion etc) and manually operated the contacts and i could hear the pump running. * I figured what the &^$%$ is wong lets try to start the car and after turning the key again the car came to life like nothing had happened. This all took place somewher not close to home and cars passing by all the time which was quite embarrassing. 5 minutes later a friend of mine came by who i had called more than an hour before. We drove to his home without any problems and after some coffee i jumped in the car and got home without any problems. Anybody has any ideas what was wrong, i'm going to change the relays for new ones anyhow. Many thanks in advance, Freek

In my regular car i use TomTom 5 with my pda, but in the grey devil i just use the old paper charts etc because it is lots of fun to drive the lotus so if you get lost it just means more fun. Freek

1 bar is 14.7 psi so 55 psi is 3.74 bar. Freek

Thanks Travis for your quick reply however i would like to change it for a silicone hose and i prefer to take the old one out not before i have a new one, so if anybody knows the inner diameter especially on the side of the coolingwaterpump elbow that would be very helpfull. Thanks Freek. By the way Travis i think we have one of the nicest colours for our cars.