sanj

Hi Eric, If you are currently in the habit of putting your helmet on before you get in the car, and you already have 5-point harnesses with correctly located shoulder belts, I don't see why you couldn't use a HANS. It's going to be awkward getting in, but then again it is already. Do keep in mind you will need new shoulder belts, as HANS uses a narrower belt.

Yes, aside from the bulb colour.

This is correct, the use of lbf in the manual is incorrect IMO.

Did you point out to Frank that a brand new one is available for less than half of what he's asking? Ridiculous, but most of his prices are...

The '88-'92 service manual had an incorrect conversion from Newtons to lbf, resulting in the erroneous figure of 120-150 lbf. Late manuals corrected this conversion error, and also lowered the preload spec, resulting in a corrected value of 8-9 lbf.

That bracket is the entire muffler bracket, so you're best bet is to find a used one. List price was over $550 two years ago...

You can also reuse the tailhousing from your old transaxle.

Having done the preload adjustment (with new bearings), I will guarantee you nobody without years of experience rebuilding these boxes is going to know what the correct "feel" is. The bearings are not that expensive, so it seems rather foolish to put it back together without replacing them. IMHO.

Nice writeup, thanks!

Bad catalytic converter?

Are you certain the wire for the light and the wire for the gauge are not swapped at the sender?

Not so easy on a '93, the shifter stalk is a very different design. I suppose you could change it to the earlier design, but most of the shifter assembly would have to be replaced. I think I still have most of the bits, as I changed mine to the '93 version.

I have over 3.2 degrees of castor on my SE with V8 wheels. It is certainly heavy, but it tracks beautifully even on roads where it used to dart all over the place. If I ever had to parallel park I'd be unhappy, but...

For those that have purchased a chip from Marcus or JAE, but don't wish to risk ruining their memcal, I do offer socket installation services. I have also successfully repaired other people's botched installs.

A to G is field service mode, which displays a blink code to reflect whether the ECM is in closed or open loop.

It is a bit confusing, but the revision you quote refers to the redesign to accomodate the Brembo brakes, not the change to the hub diameter. The service bulletin introducing the S4 refers to the change to a 58mm spigot to prevent numpties from installing the rear wheel on the front of the car. Aerobat, you should already have 58mm hubs.

You should not need to bore the wheels to fit any S4, as the reason they made the bore smaller in the first place was to prevent installation of the rear S4 wheels on the front.

Here's a pic, notice the yellow pigtail wire. This can become dislodged fairly easily, and may very well be the source of your problem. This shows the senders more clearly. 5 is the oil temp, 2 is knock, 3 is the oil pressure sender and idiot light switch sender combo. This pic shows the water temperature sender for the ECU, it's the green arrow.

Hi Paul, Where did you get the parts? Part number? Thanks!

Did you make sure the engine was at 30degBTDC when you measured the tension?

nm duplicate post

I suspect he is referring to the pressure control hose (vacuum/boost) which controls the fuel pressure regulator. Ernie, this is the small rubber hose which goes from the top of the fuel pressure regulator to a small tee on the intake manifold. If fuel comes out of this hose it means the regulator is shot. Even more commonly, this hose often gets a hole in it from being pinched between the fuel rail and the chargecooler. Without an intact hose, or with a leaky regulator, the engine will run rich at idle and lean under boost.

Powdercoat is a beautiful thing...