Vulcan Grey
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Posts posted by Vulcan Grey
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We saw something about this distillery in Ireland, Cape Clear Gin. Anybody tried it?
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I'd also be interested in the aluminum alloy and the anodizing spec?
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On 02/05/2023 at 05:54, andyblackman777 said:
Ive been told its ok to reuse the crown wheel bolts, but i'm rather dubious about this. trouble is I'm finding it hard to source new oem ones??
Ideas/thoughts
Cheers
I bought new bolts for my quaife crown wheel. They look like ARP.
I bought them from JAE in California. GTO in Wales should also have them I would think.
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4 hours ago, PrecisionMike said:
Hi, just for clarification in case of my confusion.....Did you use Loctite 5188 to seal IRON liners? And did it turn out to be reliable. ?
My 1989 SE has aluminum liners, But no I used Hylomar AF to seal the liners. The Loctite 5188 would be too stiff and brittle for cylinder liners IMO.
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On 23/07/2022 at 07:51, MrDangerUS said:
Beware of the reversed flow of the MOCAL type stat plate. To make it function properly, one has to switch position of the in/out hoses on re-assembly.
For more pictures visit: https://lotuscorps.org/pictures/index.php?/category/48
Shouldn't matter. The system is totally symmetric.
Though Lotus does say this "Ensure that the oil cooling hoses are always re-connected to the engine in the original orientation in order
to maintain the direction of oil flow. Due to the significant volume of oil held in the oil cooler circuit, it is
recommended to purge the cooling system when changing the engine oil."-
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search threads for IAC minimum air rate bleed screw adjustment
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On 04/03/2022 at 14:42, sam kirovski said:
So gentlemen, where can we purchase these??? How do we manage the illumination between green and red which were the later?
JAE in California has them.
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I agree that the casting roughness is definitely causing a stress riser there. I think the actual mechanism may be stress corrosion cracking, definitely made worse by the interference fit and the galvanic dissimilarity of the steel bushing in there. It would be better if that rough casting line were sanded down, and the wishbone were thicker there, but may be due to the choice of alloy. High strength aluminum alloys like 2024 and 7075 may suffer more to stress corrosion cracking than other alloys such as 6061 or 7050.
The wishbones should be protected from corrosion. A clear coating would be best so a crack could be easily seen if it forms. You could always oil them...
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I looks very similar in profile to the C5 Corvette
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I would, but they aren't coming anywhere near The middle of the country!
The Denver dealer is not on the list of places they will visit!
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Both ALDL plugs work fine in my 89SE
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8 hours ago, Escape said:
Congrats!
Will the Emira become a stablemate or replacement for your SE?
It'll be a replacement. I've had the Esprit 21 years.
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Deposit down yesterday... Let the patient waiting begin!
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https://www.lotuscars.com/en-US/fuel-compatibility
Lotus Model Production Year E10 Compatible? Elan 1989 – 1994 No Esprit (4cyl. carburettor) 1987 – 1989 No Esprit (4cyl. fuel injection) 1989 – 1999 Yes Esprit (V8) 1998 – 2004 Yes Elise (Rover) 1996 – 2004 No 340R 2000 No Exige (Rover) 2001 – 2002, 2004 No Elise (Toyota) 2004 onwards Yes Exige (Toyota) 2004 onwards Yes Europa 2006 – 2010 No Evora (Toyota) 2009 onwards Yes -
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I agree that the cheap versions on amazon and ebay are of questionable quality. However... they are cheap! I read reviews supposedly written by people who said they had tried the expensive ~$400+ Harley Davidson Daymaker LED headlights and then compared them to the $35 Amazon version. And they thought the amazon version was definitely as good and much more worth the $.
At $35 I can afford to buy these and try them out.
My car had the H4 E-Code non sealed bulb, originally the USA version all came with horrible sealed bulbs that had not changed since sometime in the middle of last century! The sealed bulbs were useless on a car that can go over 30mph, and the headlights were better but not great (while blinding anyone who might see them in the 0.25s that it took for me to turn them off). SO I ended up only using the brights in the countryside.
If these LED are as much improvement as they appeared to be in my garage, and I can see any better, then I'll be very happy!
The price for the LED units including Sanj's adapter brackets, were much less than the price for the similar kit from PNM. Sanj's bracket is also backwards compatible with the original headlights!
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I had kept an eye on the posts about the LED headlight conversions, and I even bought a set of @sanj conversion kit with plates. But I had always put it off, and hadn't "finished" my research about how to install it.
It turns out, it's very easy!
- Raise the headlight buckets by hand (turn knob on back of headlight motors) and unplug the pod motor harness on each side.
- Remove the trim around each headlight, 6 screws
- Loosen the 3 screws that hold the chrome bezel, which holds the sealed bulb in place.
- Be ready to catch the sealed bulb.
- remove the 4 screws that hold the black bracket to the pod
- Remove the 1 screw that holds the brass colored ring to the black bracket.
- Twist the brass ring to snap it off of the 2 adjuster posts (do not screw with the adjusters)
- Drill out the 4 rivets that hold the plastic adjuster tabs to the black bracket.
- Use Sanj's kit supplied rivets to attach the plastic adjusters to the aluminum plate he provides.
- screw the spacer onto the aluminum bracket with the flat head screw and some loctite.
- Twist to snap the brass ring back onto the adjuster posts
- Screw in the screw that holds the brass ring onto the spacer post (use loctite)
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Repeat this for each light assembly you are changing.
- Attach bracket back into pod with the 4 screws.
- connect LED bulb assembly to the wiring in the car. No modification necessary, they are plug and play!
- use chrome bezel to hold LED in place and twist to lock. Tighten 3 screws holding the bezel.
- test pod actuation by lowering motors by hand (turn knob on back of headlight motors)
- Plug pod motors back into car harnesses.
- align headlights
- reattach plastic trim pieces.
Removed original black bracket and brass ring next to Sanj's aluminum adapter.
Back side of original black bracket. (drill out 4 rivets)
Remove adjuster from brass ring
Transfer and rivet plastic adjusters to new aluminum adapter
Snap the adjusters back into the brass ring
Screw brass ring to spacer
Installed low beam
The LED's that I chose were $35 each on Amazon!
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Love that Nautilus Blue color!
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I definitely needed a longer reach 2 ton engine hoist (1570mm jib) to reach the engine in my 89 Esprit. I tried the 1 ton version (1173mm reach) and that did not reach far enough.
It's much more difficult to raise the crane high enough to pull from the side. Pulling from the rear is much easier.
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most likely built up rust on the rothers where the pads sat. You can clean them off with some brake bedding in technique.
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The Radford silhouette does look similar to the Europa above
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As someone who's tried to rinse dirt/oil/anything out of carpet... It takes for F'ing ever and a metric tonne of water and soap!
I can't see using it in a garage, especially with a car that is ever driven in the rain/mud/snow/salt.
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The Denver dealer is not on the list of places they will visit!
Emira niggles and faults
in Emira Chat
Posted
Do you have an audio equalizer app on your phone by any chance? I tried an equalizer app recently, was trying to get more out of some new earbuds, but the result on my Android Auto system in my car was bad distortion! I disabled the equalizer app, and everything was fine.