Web
Analytics Made Easy - Statcounter
1976 Elite restoration. - Page 21 - Projects & Restorations - TLF - Totally Lotus Jump to content


IGNORED

1976 Elite restoration.


Recommended Posts

I have a couple of new (still wrapped) pieces, plus the usual selection of others with a few marks and minor scratches. Is the finish identical, such that I'd only need to get the scratched bits redone, or would it be best getting even the new bits redone for consistency.?

Before seeing this link, I was going to refit the slightly scratched items, but now I'm having second thoughts. 

Can't be cheap though, I guess it's like chrome plating - heavy on the labour to get best results. Can anyone share idea of costs? 

 Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, Tony D said:

Can anyone share idea of costs? 

 Tony 

I'll have more of an idea soon when I've been to the anodising people in Birmingham.  Can't comment on the cost of Heritage's work - not used them yet.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried a local anodising company to me unfortunately they only do large industrial work and not interested in car trim. 
So after being recommended by Simon to Heritage Motor Works, the trim has arrived today at 2:30pm. 
No prices yet as they need to see what work is required.  

 

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

With the trim away I’ve now fitted the three grills in front of the radiator.  
Got to replace the exhaust “rubber” donuts that have perished  in a year since I fitted them. 
Next is to fit the sills. 

Has anyone fitted them ?
Are they attached with double sided tap and self tapping screws ? 

Thanks again. 
 

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exhaust doughnuts I purchased from Devon, I need to be superman to stretch them on.  There must be different sizes.  The ones on there have perished in around a year without moving more than ten feet. 
 

EA296D5B-1AC7-486B-B879-1D6FB761A8D1.jpeg

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Pete.  I made up a hook to stretch them over the opposite connector, failed, but before everyone thinks I’m old and weak, yes I’m old but the weakness is due to my rotator cuff having to be stitched back on.  Have to wait for my son to come over.
Will search for something better.  

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The exhaust is on !!! Six 50mm internal diameter and two 36mm internal diameter.  
 That tested my shoulder.  
Now back to doors and headlights.  Think will start with the lights , motor mounting bracket is done for first attempt. Need to sort out linkage.  

  • Like 1

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I was going to put the Lotus Elite letters on my car. Lotus went on the rear not to much of a struggle. 
Different story on the front with Elite lettering.  Both letter ‘E’ have one bent fixing pin on each. 
The letters came with the car from previous owner, new never fitted.  Question is has anyone purchased the E from SJs , and did it have straight fixing pins. 
The mounting holes are already in the car , so I could use the letters but perhaps do something on the fixing of them. 
 

 

28C8667F-B3A9-4E55-AC9C-FFC85A440432.jpeg

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it had to happen, been progressing well this last week, badges on front and back, mirrors on both doors, the bright trim should be back in couple of weeks.  So back to working on fitting the doors. New window channel guides from Woolies , all in both sides, frame in passenger side , with the sliding glass. Fitted electric window motor,  all good.  Not connected to electrics as I haven’t got any yet. So on to drivers side, the glass was very tight to slide in the runners. But put that down to me fitting the runner a bit un-even.  Bolt the frame in and no movement by hand pressure.  Take it out try again but no movement, with extreme force.  
So eventually got the vernier, glass thickness is 0.6mm thicker than passenger side.  
I have a spare which is the thinner size so now have to strip it out again.  The tight glass has the metal running track for electric motor , so need to remove and try and glue onto thin glass.  
Would the glass over manufacturing years gone from thin to thick, or in reverse thick to thin to save weight 😄

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Doris the dog said:

, mirrors on both doors, 

My car (which is still in transport) does not have outside mirrors fitted so I am thinking about what kind to fit. Do quite like the originals but they seem not to be available anymore (mirror heads on a ball pin stem).

What kind of mirrors did you buy? Did you mount the mirror base horizontal or angled (following the door line)?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, EXCEL V8 said:

What does the thick glass measure Tony?  It would be interesting to measure mine!  ISTR I may have two sets.

Pete

The ones that fit measure 4.2mm , the one that’s given me grief measures 4.8mm. 
I used this one as it has the channel glued to it that the motor arm slides in.  Also another annoying problem , the nylon wheel that’s attached to the motor arm on my right hand side is 0.030 thou bigger diameter than the left hand side , so doesn’t fit the channel either. 
Tomorrow I need to remove the channel from thick glass and attach to thin glass , and remove 30 thou off nylon bearing wheel, as they seem to be riveted on.  

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Dion said:

My car (which is still in transport) does not have outside mirrors fitted so I am thinking about what kind to fit. Do quite like the originals but they seem not to be available anymore (mirror heads on a ball pin stem).

What kind of mirrors did you buy? Did you mount the mirror base horizontal or angled (following the door line)?

 

Dion, after looking on eBay for several weeks, a set came up that I could refurbish. One was chrome the other black.  
Ive mounted them following door line. 
 

CD87355F-9AFB-480E-88D8-58186AB0136E.jpeg

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This morning back to changing the thick off side glass with a glass that’s 0.6mm thinner.  Frame removed from door skin , next to remove the steel channel that the window motor arm connects too , with a  nylon bearing. A bit of force , mallet and pry bar , off it came as my thin glass has not got one attached to it. Already found this nylon bearing is 30thou bigger diameter than the channel. So two choices swap with another I have here that on a near side motor, but the shaft for the bearing appears to be riveted over , so not a straight forward swap.  So it’s going to be  Machine the diameter down to fit in situ. ( file or sander). 
Both motors i have have the same part number, but at some stage one looks to have been modified.  
 

A8C85B2C-CF3A-4EF0-8365-BC14C00FE11C.jpeg

264A6877-637C-4720-B7F0-C1724A4F122F.jpeg

10D58F35-A6B3-40DA-B383-15CE4BB1CE5A.jpeg

FAB54D64-5204-4EEB-8B92-E4D8553AC299.jpeg

Tony 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience, serve personalized ads or content, and analyze our traffic. By clicking " I Accept ", you consent to our use of cookies. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.