S2 JPS project

[Lotusfab]

I’d come and help but its a bit far!

[LOTUSMAN33]

Well it’s all out but must say without Air Con it would have been so much easier 🙄

Body chocked up nice and steady, probably a little over belt and braces but better safe than sorry 😐 

Free and on the engine lift after releasing the mounts.

I measured up and made a wooden trolley to land the engine on so I could slide it out.

That bloody water pump fought me all the way hence trying to remove it, the domestic one is so much easier. I have checked and as per ‘Fridges’ advice a cap screw will be going in and fitting with the engine nearly in position on replacement.

The Air Con brackets caused lots of issues but to remove means taking the tensioner off, it would be a bit easier if you put the compressor and hoses in after like Lotus do at build no doubt?

Finally on the trolley ready to roll out, the L mount was very close so my measuring was cutting it fine to say the least,

All out ready for Sunday bath time and removing the gearbox, taking tappet shim checks and removing the Air injectors.

I’m pleased I ended up removing it in the end as the exhaust manifold was loose where someone had previously attempted to remove in place and the studs came out with the nuts then re-secured so probably blowing well.

Doing this job on S3 onwards is so much easier or with the body off early cars but doable on your own with a decent engine lift (mines paid for itself endless times over the past 15 years of owning it including my two Spanset strops. I will probably put it back without the engine leveller as not really needed if you get your slinging right. I never needed to remove the tailgate in the end which is good as pain to do on your own.
I was hoping to clean the engine bay but had commitments this afternoon/evening so task for the morning.

Dave  

 

 

 

[Fridge]

Great work. Worth the extra effort, as otherwise you'd have a very frustrating jobs lined up ahead.

[LOTUSMAN33]

Day spent cleaning the engine and box then got those Air injectors removed so I can manufacture some plugs on the lathe this week.
In the tray ready for some Gunk

The Air injectors actually block around 20% of the exhaust ports so glad they are gone now.

I think I know why the car was taken off the road and the clutch wasn’t working as it’s completely fried from slipping with oil. I don’t think the Gaco seal is the route cause though as the sump is missing two fastenings and seems to be where the oil is coming from. Either way I will be replacing the sump gasket, Rear Crank seal along with the housing gasket.

Now do I need to replace the very expensive pressure plate? It’s not scored and appears good but does have what appears a small amount of blueing.

The two missing nuts on the sump behind the bell housing, this explains the dirt on the gearbox being a mix of oil deposits and clutch dust.

Now back out and back to the bath to clean it all up.

Dave  

 

 

 

[Fridge]

False economy to not replace the pressure plate, but as you say, it's costly.

[LOTUSMAN33]

All cleaned up, I bought some gunk ultra but it’s rubbish and just spreads the oil, thankfully I found some of my faithful Carplan stuff in the shed which is so much better, wish I looked this morning and thought the grime was tough going.

Nearly there just a final clean with brake cleaner before reassembly now.

The pressure plate cleaned up really well with no scoring and the blue was only oil deposits as went with degreaser. I will see what deals I can get for a clutch kit through my friends motor factors.

Flywheel still has the machining marks in it and flat with just a little staining which will go with a 400 grit wet/dry flash over.

Whats the best quality Gaco seal to buy, we have used some awful ones in work from various suppliers?

I have re-sealed the end cover on the box and fitted the domestic exhaust carrier plate, I just need to make a support bracket for the speedo drive as the original carrier plate had one built in.

I gave these a quick refurbish today, unfortunately the wife came home just as I was putting them in the oven 🤭😂, thankfully she was out when they went in the dishwasher this morning 😁🤣, the sun did a pretty good job bringing out the wrinkle finish so no big problem 👍🏻
 

Dave  

 

 

[LOTUSMAN33]

Reading this looks like I still have a bit more to do getting the car to Domestic spec, I already have new Webber’s although these will be swapped out for DHLA at some point. My air injection system is now gone along with the federal exhaust system and catalytic converter with a Peco sports system on order.

I noticed the blue and red dots so will have a play with this once I have done the valve clearance adjustments. I still have a 45D4 distributor with vacuum so will get some UK springs and blank/remove the vacuum advance system.
I will be losing the K&Ns and fitting the stand air box with Air induction fan.

Copied from Golden Gate Lotus, excellent write up 👍🏻 and very helpful. 🍻

Dave  

CAM TIMING

You may have noticed those little colored dots on the cam pulleys and jack shaft pulley. Those are the cam timing marks. Early 907s will ahve a red and a blue dot. Later 907s will have a red, blue and yellow dots. Also embossed on each pulley is "in" or "ex", additionally there is a dimple on one side of each pulley. The pulleys for all three, cams and jack shaft are identical. So, what is needed to be done is to use these three identification markings and timing markings to set the engine timing to European specs.

First loosen the pulley retaining bolts on each cam. Set the engine to TDC, check timing not only at the flywheel but see that there are tow dots aligned at the cams. Now, the timing belt can be removed. The air box, the alternator and V-belt must be removed first. Then the belt tension adjustment screw can be slackened off, but not more than ½"! Do not remove the belt just yet, using a suitable nail or drill bit that is roughly 4mm in diameter (5/32") as a locking pin for the spring loaded tensioner, push down on the belt thus pushing the tensioner back and insert your locking pin in the small hole provided in the body of the tensioner. Now the belt is free to be removed from the pulleys.

Now the cams can be timed. On early 907s the blue dots were aligned on U.S. cars. On later 907s the blue dot on the intake and the red dot on the exhaust cam were aligned on U.S. cars. On early 907s remove the intake pulley and flip it over so that the dimple faces into the engine. Note each cam will have a dimple only on one side allow its outer edge. On the exhaust pulley likewise flip it, but the dimple will face out. Now both cams will require slight adjustments to align the red dots. Do not attempt to tighten the retaining bolts unless you have locked the cams in place (it's easy to turn a cam too far, pushing valves into pistons and bending those valves while excuting the tightening). Later 907s do likewise except align the yellow dots.

Now the jacksaft will require retiming. This is done by lining up the red dot (adjecent to the dimple) in line with the centers of the crank and the jackshaft. You can now replace the timing belt. If you do not have access to a belt tension gauge I recommend counting the number of turns that you loosened the tensioneer and additionally measure the deflection in the belt BEFORE having removed the belt. In this way you can refit the belt back to the original settings. Check the belt tension after turning the engine by hand at least one full turn. Replace V-belt, alternator, air box, etc. The ignition will have to be retimed to specs, but more on the next.

IGNITION

The U.S. cars are provided with distributors with vacuum RETARD! This must be disconnected. The European 907s use either a Lucas 43D4 (41623) or 25D4 (41584), whereas the U.S. 907 uses 25D4 (41634A) or 45D4 (41626). So the U.S. distributor must be altered to bring up it up to the European specs. This done by as mentioned disconnecting the vacuum retard. Remember to cap the manifold tap. The diaphram need not be removed from the distributor. Attain springs from your local parts guy for either of the European distributors. Install these springs by removing the point mounting plate to expose the springs and weights. Set the static timing to 7° BTDC. This will give your 907 25° advance at 3500 to 4000 rpm.

 

 

 

[LOTUSMAN33]

The timing on the engine is off so couldn’t have run well with the distributor marks aligned to the wrong side of the dimple and still out some, probably from use of a mirror I assume and not allowing for the tension.

I measured the Air injector threads with the male being 3/8” x 28 TPI and the female 1/2” x 26 TPI.

I can’t buy plugs or bolts of the shelf in 3/8 size as very fine with 3/8 UNF being 24 TPI so may just cut the injectors then blank the female threads.

I rechecked the valve clearances this evening as easier on the trolley but sizes are accurate so the inlet bank is coming off tomorrow once on the engine stand so I can order some smaller shims.

I will need to put the flywheel back on before I tension the belt just to confirm TDC although the crank pulley line looked accurate when I did the initial measurements in the car.

I have decided to replace the pressure plate for the clutch.

Next thing is to resist replacing the rings and shells when on the engine stand 😁😉

Dave  

 

 

[910Esprit]

Are you sure its not 1/8bsp, (28tpi and marginally over 3/8")  which would seem highly possible for this application.  If so, suitable fittings are readily available.

[LOTUSMAN33]

Thanks Steve, I will check that tomorrow as I use 1/8 BSP brass plugs in work on gauge lines. 👍🏻
Dave  

[yeller77]

Agree, pretty sure the air injector stuff was/is BSP, for whatever reason.

[LOTUSMAN33]

I tried a 1/8” BSP Die nut on the injector today which did cut but only a little so ordered some 1/8” BSP blanking plugs, I will run a tap down the head after plugging the ports just so nothing fires up. 👍🏻
Dave  

[LOTUSMAN33]

A little more progress...

Engine now on the stand and sump removed, definitely leaking as oil completely covering the upper gasket face so removing was a good thing, it took a while to clean it up but now ready to go back on, I cleaned the strainer but nothing to write home about as pretty clean.

I have removed both cam housings in the end as although the exhaust side was in spec the sealant was clearly failed when I removed the inlet side just flaking, also the ‘O’ Seal on the oil way was hard. 
I have measured the shims and going to adjust the 0.010” exhaust ones as I had some a thou smaller in my spares which worked perfectly taking them to 0.011’ clearance. 
I need to order six replacements for the inlet side though as took one for the exhaust and only had shims to take the 0.004” to 0.005” which I wouldn’t be happy with.

I have now rebuilt the tensioner which was a little rough when spun, the kit was really good quality from PNM.

The Air injectors are now blanked so well pleased as the plug sits flush with the port in the engine, hopefully they will be okay.

Back on the cleaning tomorrow of the engine bay measuring hoses and clips etc.

I have my domestic springs so will look at the shocks soon, I think gold is in order 😁

Dave  

[Lotusfab]

Hi Dave, after my oil pressure issues there are a few things I would do. Remove the oil strainer pipe and and check it for “necking”. Any indentation where  the olive sits and the pipe needs replacing. S and J sell the pipe. The new olive must be applied with oil and torqued up correctly.  
Secondly take the oil pump apart and measure all tolerances and check the PRV for scoring. Better still renew the annulus and rotor using the same method I did to correctly size the rotor if its stiff. The pump can be tested on your stand using the drill method you did on the S1. Figures for how much oil should pump with a drill are on my blog as a rough check- obviously depends on drill and speed, but its a ballpark. When its finished take the plugs out and turn it over 2 minutes and 30 secs it took for mine to pump oil. If none comes out there is an issue with the oil pump or pickup pipe - do not start engine until its resolved in the hope pressure will build. 
I was told by a well known builder they never pack the pumps with graphogen and always get pressure. Probably because the pump and pipe are perfect. I would pack with graphogen, as it does no harm. I know you have done all this before, but I have done it twice recently so it might jog your memory.

My S1 started to show what seemed a low oil pressure when hot. The S1 only needs 5psi at idle. I removed the oil pipe from the sender and measured the pressure with a test gauge. It was 35 psi! This is the pressure stated for 3500 rpm, so you did a good job on that engine! The low needle position was being caused by a faulty sender and its electrical contact.

[LOTUSMAN33]

Thanks Fabian, great advice and yes I was planning to do the oil pump run but need to get a couple blanking caps for my oil cooler connections as all going to be new and don’t want to connect the old one and introduce contamination into the clean engine.

I will need to connect the alternator bracket as on the federal cars it forms part of the pump housing. I will order a Aux housing gasket and do the inspection 👍🏻
Dave  

[Lotusfab]

Another way is to switch out the oil filter screw and screw the oil filter directly to the housing, removing the oil cooler sandwich plate. Thats what I did. If I find the thread I could send you it, although I haven’t got a clue where it has gone! I will have a look.

[Barrykearley]

10 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

When its finished take the plugs out and turn it over 2 minutes and 30 secs it took for mine to pump oil. If none comes out there is an issue with the oil pump or pickup pipe - do not start engine until its resolved in the hope pressure will build. 
I was told by a well known builder they never pack the pumps with graphogen and always get pressure. Probably because the pump and pipe are perfect. I would pack with graphogen, as it does no harm

I for one have seen just how problematic pump pick up can be. You can reverse pump oil up the galleries on a turbo - but I’ve never managed to get a pump to prime itself without doing this. Pack the pump with graphogen - it’s simply not worth the risk.

[LOTUSMAN33]

Thanks guys, I will definitely undertake. The seller did take the car to a garage before I bought it and got them to run it up with a gravity fuel supply which wasn’t ideal as I would of preferred to have just run it after a thorough going through and most garages don’t know these cars to well.

I hope that oil soaked cardboard wasn’t this car 🙄

I can’t find the movie file he sent on my iPad for some reason, it sounded ok other than the smoke from all the oil.

I did try to release the screw connection on the oil filter yesterday but suspect it’s been loctited in place and didn’t want to damage it, I can pick up some BSP blanks from work for the sandwich plate so no real issue.

I will need to get some graphogen grease though.
I am tempted to pull the head and put new shells and rings in it but trying desperately to resist as such low mileage, just finding little issues keeps me thinking 🤔😂

Dave  

[v8vantage]

If you're thinking about doing something then do it, no regrets later. Mission creep is in full force so just strip the damn engine and do it right to satisfy your concerns, it's already apart so easy enough to do now. I'd rather have a car mechanically perfect than cosmetically perfect.

[LOTUSMAN33]

I pulled the first shock off this evening and was surprised how little difference there is with federal and domestic spring length not withstanding the originals have been in place for over 40 years.

The original shocks are in unbelievable condition with only a couple stone chips and still firm which is superb news as these cars do drive nicely on the original set up.

Dave  

[TAR]

Not sure if it's a trick of the light in the picture but the clean spring looks to have a smaller diameter which would make the characteristics quite different to the other one. 🙂

[LOTUSMAN33]

I will measure that Tim although the old ones are caked in grease/oil and grime all dried in. They also had aluminium spacing plates below the bottom cup which I found on my last Elan M100 Development car which had a federal set up. 
Dave  

[LOTUSMAN33]

A bit of garage wall art fun, bought for 99p on you can guess auction site 😎

Original 80’s sign, not immaculate so suits my car and garage well 😂

Dave  

[LOTUSMAN33]

Engine parts, new 3 piece clutch and brand new water pump now all arrived so should be an enjoyable weekend rebuilding the cars heart 😁

I was very fortunate to find a pair of genuine brand new matched Lotus DHLA 45‘s, they certainly weren’t cheap but should really make the car.

I had new ones for my 84 Turbo back in the early 90’s and that was the best Esprit I have ever driven after it’s engine build. The new carbs are beautiful bits of kit although I will still be getting them on my test rig to check the accelerator pump delivery and adjust if needed prior to install.

My target is to get the engine back in before the end of October, over the past couple weeks I’ve been busy cleaning and painting all the removed items ready for the assembly which takes forever but will be worth it even if probably only ever seen by me.

I popped down and had my new header tank vapour blasted today as well, the alloy just looked too bling for my old car 🙂

It will get etched primed then given the original black treatment, with the complete new hoses front to back along with stainless jubilee clips, brand new water pump, radiator flush, domestic thermostat and fresh coolant it should hopefully be all fine. The radiator is in excellent condition already so maybe next year the fans may get some modernisation.

The distributor has been sent off to a specialist to be fully rebuilt to domestic 43D specification although it will still be marked as 45D on the body removing the vacuum and replacing the centrifugal springs along with new bearings and seals, it’s due back next week which will be good.

Dave  

[Lotusfab]

Hi Dave who is rebuilding the distributor?