Eclat S2 Running Issue

[carrierbywagon]

Hi all,

 

I’ve been busy over lockdown getting my 81 Eclat in good order but I’m now having an issue with getting it started. Before I drove it into a new garage a few weeks ago it wasn’t running that well. I had attempted to tune it and it was running better before I parked it in there. However now it refuses to start. I’ve had issues on and off with getting it started - including when I first bought it from the auction - it refused to start when I came to drive it home! Sometimes it has just flat out refused to start over the past 6 months but could eventually start it.

Below are the things I’ve done that I thought each time had solved it as the car would come back to life:

1. New battery

2. New starter (hi torque but with extra wire put in for cold starting)

3. New spark plugs

4. Reset timing to 9 degrees BTDC

5. Reset carbs as in Hamill’s book

6. Checked for spark at each plug

7. Fixed small fuel leak in carbs

8. Tested and checked coil and dizzy cap

 

Sometimes one of the carbs would backfire but the engine wasn’t close to starting. Now I had been tearing my hair out thinking how it still won’t start when I decided to compression test:

1. 180 PSI

2. 180 PSI

3. 115 PSI

4. 110 PSI

 

So my questions in summary are this - have I missed anything obvious or have I got some sort of engine issue such as possibly a head gasket issue between cylinders 3+4? Is there any other test I can do before I tear off the head?

Any help would be much appreciated!

I look to post a restoration topic once I’ve got the car back running of what I’ve done!

 

Thanks,

Ben

[rjwooll]

Hi Ben,

I'd wait until you can do a compression test at normal temperatures before jumping to any conclusions. Cold engine tests can be quite misleading.

Have you replaced your plug leads (have had problems with old ones myself)

If ignition looks OK squirt carb cleaner into the air intakes while cranking - if it fires, this will help identify a fuelling problem.

Cheers, Richard

[williamtherebel]

Could do to check the condition of the fuel filter. Also check the small breather pipe near the filler cap. Yeas ago I had a fuel starvation problem. Then one day I tried to fill up with petrol and there was a large "sighhhh" as I took off the filler cap. Because the breather pipe was blocked it caused a vacuum to build up in the tank until eventually the petrol pump couldn't overcome the vacuum.  I cleared the breather pipe and it has always run ok since. 

[carrierbywagon]

Hi Richard and Lez,

I have assumed plug leads are good since I get a strong spark at every spark plug but may try some other ones as I’m getting desperate!

I had tested cranking whilst putting easy-start in at the carbs - again nothing. Once or twice the carb might spit out but not sounding like it would start. 

Regarding the fuel filter, that has been recently replaced. I’m definitely getting fuel to the carbs and after a period of cranking I can see fuel on the spark plugs so clearly it is getting to the engine.

 

Back to the compression test - I can’t do a warm one since it won’t start! I still think having such low compression in cylinders 3+4 may be my problem but it seems strange I’ve had it running before!

 

Ben

[rjwooll]

Are you sure you need the cold start wire on the new starter motor? I fitted a new Wosp motor from Lotusbits a while ago and seem to remember I didn't need one. Was there an existing cold start wire or did you put one in yourself?

Cheers, Richard

[rjwooll]

Silly me - I didn't need a cold spark wire because I'm running with an ECU!

In the meantime there is some info in this thread which might be useful:

 

[carrierbywagon]

Thanks, I’ll have a look next week and keep you all updated!

[Drawfiler]

Are you sure the ignition timing is not 180 degrees out, Check  by making sure the two cam wheel marks line up and then check mark on crank pulley. Yes I know this is fundamental but the timing light will work at 180 degrees out and you will get farting and banking but no running. All this is from bitter experience!

Peter

[carrierbywagon]

Success!

I had noticed that when I looked closely, both the carbs had been leaking from the pump jet diaphragm area. One of these was leaking onto the distributer!

Two rebuilt carbs later, new dizzy cap and spark plug gaps set correctly and the car is running again!

During the rebuild I also noticed that one of the fuel mixture screws was seized and I nearly destroyed it getting out!

I think it was a combination of these problems that stopped it from starting, not just one.

Thanks for all your help.

[Clive59]

On 06/08/2020 at 19:18, carrierbywagon said:

1. 180 PSI

2. 180 PSI

3. 115 PSI

4. 110 PSI

they should be within 10%, so 3 and 4 are very low. I have an S2 Elite, and cold compression test gave 175, 163, 175, 165, so your 1 & 2 seem as they should be. Can you do a warm test now it is running? Would be good to know.

[pbharcourt]

Just a thought, have you checked the anti-syphon flow lock valve is working properly?