Drawfiler

If the problem with the ignition is solved and you still are getting erratic rpm, I would look at these 1 are the o rings between carbs and manifold ok 2 are fuel levels ok 3 are carbs flooding, check by feeling inside the trumpets with ignition on, if fuel level is ok then check pump pressure. 4 it is just possible that you have mis assembled carb, are the gaskets and seals ok and is accelerator pump working properly 5 I assume carbs are properly balanced.

Angus, you mention moving the rotor arm up and down, if that’s the case, replace the dizzy cap as the centre carbon electrode may be worn, giving intermittent sparking. Peter

Just to add to Duncs entry, beware of getting too much sealant inside the cam chamber as I understand that bits can beak off and clog the oilways. I have fitted the covers with sealant only and no gasket which has worked well for me, you may need to remove the engine mounts to get the engine across so you can easily fit the lower (exhaust) cover. it could be possible that the smoke is caused by worn valve stems, have a look at the oil filler for smoke when the engine is warm.

So I have got the car running with clouds of white smoke from the exhaust and engine missing so I was a bit depressed! Mike Taylor told me to change the plugs and take car got a fast run, the misfire was a faulty plug lead. After a few miles of running the smoke went away, it was caused by water accumulation in the silencers and it needed the exhaust system to get warm to evaporate it.

My 78 Eclat without aircon came to me with one fan, on advice from Mike Taylor I fitted two modern fans and they seem to be able to keep the temperature under control under most circumstances

Sounds like stabiliser to me, check to see if there are any bolts on the terminal of the instrument, if not have a look at the stabiliser, if it’s gone, there art modern versions cheaply on eBay.

With the new sump you may have to change the power steering pump. You don’t need to alter the carbs if you don’t want to but I think that Lotusbits now market a replacement jet set. I haven’t done this as my Carr runs pretty well on the old ones.

Just check that the crank sprocket mark lines up ok when the cam sprockets are in tune, if ok and spark is as above things should run ok, check carb balance, as a guide, if you get backfire that carb will be a bit lean. also check that carbs are not flooding and fuel pump pressure is ok. a quick spark check is to connect your strobe timing light to each lead in turn, if no strobe there is no spark. this should do it, I had very low compression but engine ran ok you need to look elsewhere.

I fitted mine with a Powerspark, they set them up to suit your engine, no outside black boxes and reasonable price. peter

Thanks Pete, I have managed to get over the problem temporary as the blockage was in the flexible pipe to the nipple peter

Barry, my 3 way connector is on top of the diff so still can’t get at it without taking diff out, Alec, tell me more about the hole in the floor method please. Peter

After the Covid lay up, my Eclat front brakes were rusted up so the callipers came off for a rebuild, I thought that I would change the fluid while I was at it. The front brakes went well and I am getting a solid pedal, the rears are a different matter, I got the central bleed nipple off after a struggle and on pressing the pedal,only the slightest drop of fluid comes out and the pedal pressure remains firm. I wonder if the problem is with the balance valve or must I get the bleed pipe off and clean things out. If this is the case I am dreading taking the diff out to get access as I will have to work without a ramp and am tempted to go for the hole in the floor method, has anyone actually done this and if so did it work. Thanks Peter

So do you think it was in there for a while? I suspect that the belt would have lasted for some time without failure.

Interesting, what caused it, it looks like something dropped onto the inside of the belt and was pushed out from the tooth side, is there damage to the pulleys?

It could have been a lot worse, at least the liners and rings are ok so no engine out. I will grind a bit off the pins and try the head on then check the gap between head and block.