Drawfiler

If the problem with the ignition is solved and you still are getting erratic rpm, I would look at these 1 are the o rings between carbs and manifold ok 2 are fuel levels ok 3 are carbs flooding, check by feeling inside the trumpets with ignition on, if fuel level is ok then check pump pressure. 4 it is just possible that you have mis assembled carb, are the gaskets and seals ok and is accelerator pump working properly 5 I assume carbs are properly balanced.

Angus, you mention moving the rotor arm up and down, if that’s the case, replace the dizzy cap as the centre carbon electrode may be worn, giving intermittent sparking. Peter

Just to add to Duncs entry, beware of getting too much sealant inside the cam chamber as I understand that bits can beak off and clog the oilways. I have fitted the covers with sealant only and no gasket which has worked well for me, you may need to remove the engine mounts to get the engine across so you can easily fit the lower (exhaust) cover. it could be possible that the smoke is caused by worn valve stems, have a look at the oil filler for smoke when the engine is warm.

So I have got the car running with clouds of white smoke from the exhaust and engine missing so I was a bit depressed! Mike Taylor told me to change the plugs and take car got a fast run, the misfire was a faulty plug lead. After a few miles of running the smoke went away, it was caused by water accumulation in the silencers and it needed the exhaust system to get warm to evaporate it.

My 78 Eclat without aircon came to me with one fan, on advice from Mike Taylor I fitted two modern fans and they seem to be able to keep the temperature under control under most circumstances

Sounds like stabiliser to me, check to see if there are any bolts on the terminal of the instrument, if not have a look at the stabiliser, if it’s gone, there art modern versions cheaply on eBay.

With the new sump you may have to change the power steering pump. You don’t need to alter the carbs if you don’t want to but I think that Lotusbits now market a replacement jet set. I haven’t done this as my Carr runs pretty well on the old ones.

Just check that the crank sprocket mark lines up ok when the cam sprockets are in tune, if ok and spark is as above things should run ok, check carb balance, as a guide, if you get backfire that carb will be a bit lean. also check that carbs are not flooding and fuel pump pressure is ok. a quick spark check is to connect your strobe timing light to each lead in turn, if no strobe there is no spark. this should do it, I had very low compression but engine ran ok you need to look elsewhere.

I fitted mine with a Powerspark, they set them up to suit your engine, no outside black boxes and reasonable price. peter

Thanks Pete, I have managed to get over the problem temporary as the blockage was in the flexible pipe to the nipple peter

Barry, my 3 way connector is on top of the diff so still can’t get at it without taking diff out, Alec, tell me more about the hole in the floor method please. Peter

After the Covid lay up, my Eclat front brakes were rusted up so the callipers came off for a rebuild, I thought that I would change the fluid while I was at it. The front brakes went well and I am getting a solid pedal, the rears are a different matter, I got the central bleed nipple off after a struggle and on pressing the pedal,only the slightest drop of fluid comes out and the pedal pressure remains firm. I wonder if the problem is with the balance valve or must I get the bleed pipe off and clean things out. If this is the case I am dreading taking the diff out to get access as I will have to work without a ramp and am tempted to go for the hole in the floor method, has anyone actually done this and if so did it work. Thanks Peter

So do you think it was in there for a while? I suspect that the belt would have lasted for some time without failure.

Interesting, what caused it, it looks like something dropped onto the inside of the belt and was pushed out from the tooth side, is there damage to the pulleys?

It could have been a lot worse, at least the liners and rings are ok so no engine out. I will grind a bit off the pins and try the head on then check the gap between head and block.

I took the head and gasket to Mike Taylor today and he found the problem, the two roll pins that stick out of the top of the block and go through the gasket then into matching holes in the head were bottoming out in the head holes. All this is because I had had the head ground so holes in the head were not deep enough to take the pins. on looking closely at the gasket he could see that there was a sign of leaking slightly on all four cylinders on the exhaust side. I will trim back the pins and put it all together again.

Have you considered shipping a complete used 2.2 engine from the UK? I appreciate it is a risk but worth trying.

Beware, nominally similar carbs may not suit as jets and machining of the main casting are engine specific. You need some from the right model of Lotus why not get a rebuild kit and do it yourself it is not difficult, you can’t get the jets in the wrong holes. You can do one at a time so you have one to copy. if you do get the float needles with polymer tips to give better sealing.

Now got the head off but can’t see the problem, gasket looks sound, head and block both smooth and clean, liners look ok to me so I am going to take bits to lotusbits for advice from Mike Taylor.

If you have those electric motors that look like wiper motors, the limit switches in the motor gearbox can play up so have a look at those.

Now I’m getting air/gas in the cooling with bubbles in the header tank so suspect gasket or liners, now taking head off for a look, will report back.

Perhaps the corrosion on the piston crown is because that particular valve was open all those years and condensation got in. When you have the head off, you must take care not to disturb the liners so male up a set of clamping bars to fit on the studs. Measure the ‘nip’ with a straight edge across each liner with a feeler gauge, you can check head chamber volume by getting a piece of Perspex large enough to cover the chamber area, drill a small hole in it and ‘stick’ it in place over the chamber with grease, then use a hypodermic syringe to fill the chamber space with water keeping a note of the volume of water as you go. when you get the crank out look carefully at the upper front main shell as over tension on the drive belt can lift the crank up and wear the shell away. keep us posted Peter

I converted my engine to 2.2 using new bits and a used enginel and have lots of good 2l bits left over, crank, pistons, etc if they are any help

I would consider replacing the belt pulleys with those from Lotusbits which a have a better shaped tooth form. The tensioner and belt should also be replaced.. I suppose it boils down to this ‘do I pull the head and have to pay for a gasket and head skim at say £100 or risk it and have to pull the engine apart later?’ if you leave the head on and subsequently have to remove it, there is the cost of inlet and exhaust gaskets which will have to be replaced again. my gut feeling is to lift the head while it is relatively easy then you can also look at valve guides and seats, update to double valve springs and clean the waterways, make sure the liners are ok etc. I would also give the oil pump a wiz with a battery drill and check its performance. All more work and expense but more peace of mind! BTW did the engine turn over OK before you started and did you do a compression test?

My 2.2 engine will overheat if left on tick over for some time, the two fans, thermostat pressure cap and thermal switch all work ok. Rad has been flushed clear. My question is=is it worth taking out the thermostat to improve water flow?