Elite S2 Fuel tank removal

[Howard Cox]

Back again guys.

From my previous post regarding the Flowlock valve, it was seized in the open position, so not that which was causing no fuel to the carbs. I've now purchased a normally closed solenoid valve off the internet as they're not available any longer. Filter is clear, (though I'll fit a new one anyway) as is pipe from pump to Flowlock. The pump is running fine 2 lites/min. Don't know outlet pressure as it's just an open end.

My conclusion is there must be an obstruction in the tank or outlet connection, though the 28 litres in the tank ran out cleanly if not a little slowly just under gravity pressure.

SO IT'S TANK OUT TIME. I've disconnected the two rubber inlet connections from the filler necks. I've unbolted the two retaining fittings each side of the tank and disconnected the sender wires.

What can be holding the tank in place ????

It's solid. And I mean solid.  Not the slightest movement. I've tapped it with a mallet, knocked the crap out of it with a lump hammer, NOTHING, absolutely no movement at all, NOWT.

Any suggestions where I go from here guys. Getting frustrated now.

Hoping for help.

Howard.

[exeterjeep]

? got this? from S1 manual-

 

[Howard Cox]

Yep. Got the book, done all of that. Still rock solid.
If I didn't know better I’d say it's been banged into position and is jammed solid. How to get it out with nothing much to pull on or lever against is a mystery. 
Your avatar looks suspiciously like my new car….is it/was it ?

GCY676W

[exeterjeep]

6 minutes ago, Howard Cox said:

Your avatar looks suspiciously like my new car….is it/was it ?

GCY676W

Seen your car years ago at several lotus shows, mine was also a s2 elite in Altair green NCL463V - an ex Chapman car, I owned for 21 years!

Did not know that you had the workshop manual.

Elites (both S1 ands S2) are great looking cars and you can (just) get in the back.

[eclat22]

Has the tank been repainted at some time? Has the paint bonded it where it sits on the grp. From memory you have done all that is required to remove it. Is it possible that it has rusted to the sound deadening material that from memory is on it.put a spreader in the boot and try prying the tank upwards carefully

[EXCEL V8]

That's what I was thinking Dan - maybe it has bonded itself to the GRP somehow.  I agree though there are no other fasteners.

Pete

[Howard Cox]

Thanks guys, I’ll have another crack at it tomorrow.

Wondering if there are any figures for pump outlet pressure ?

With an open end it's delivering about 2 litres/min.  There are 3 fuel filters fitted  (god knows why) one is sufficient so wondering if the resistance is so great the pump cannot overcome everything as they're not positive displacement pumps. If I can't get the tank out I may just reinstate pipes etc and check flow rate at carbs when disconnected.

 

[Tony D]

If your pump ticks away when first switched on, then stops after a few seconds, I'd doubt your problem is in the tank. 

Check the delivery at the carbs. 

Tony 

[Howard Cox]

Thanks Tony, the pump runs continuously when ignition on. It's a hollow sounding tick, as if there's no fuel in it. When disconnected on the bench and pumping fuel the sound is a lot deeper. When on the car and running there's no fuel at the carbs, Flowloc open. That's why I feel there's a blockage in the tank. Delivery to the pump via filter is very slow.

[Howard Cox]

Well folks it's out, finally. Peter and Dan you were correct. The tank had bonded itself to the fibreglass via the undersell that had been liberally coated in the boot area. As suggested, a pry bar under the tank with a thin board to spread the load and I managed to prize it free.

Now it's out I can see why it took so long to drain the petrol by gravity through one filter. (see photo)  Mind you it was 28 litres and too four hours ☹️ Don't ask, everything was disconnected.

Peering into the tank via the sender unit I can see that the internal surfaces are excellent except where the rusty crud has deposited itself on the bottom in the centre section. It's drying out and will turn to flaky dust. Next question, what's the best method of clearing it all out now I have access. Never done a car tank before only bike tanks and they're easier to shake about.

Suggestions please.

Thanks again 🙂

 

[EXCEL V8]

Check the tank really carefully for pinholes - maybe try to get some pressure in there.  My Elite tank looked OK at first glance but had lots of tiny pinholes in it.

If you just need to remove surface rust inside the tank you could make up a strong solution of citric acid and leave it in there for a while - that will remove the rust, especially if it's warmed up.

Pete

[Tony D]

Various tank refurb and sealing kits available via fleabay. POR  15 was on my short list. 

Tony 

[Howard Cox]

Thanks Tony. Researched POR15 and whilst it has good resistance to petrol exposure, the effects of long term immersion in petrol don't look so good. My tank looks pretty good all round inside except for that big blob of gunge in the centre bottom.  It's drying quickly to dust so I think I’ll try and scrape the worst loose then vacuum it out.

[Tony D]

The product I was thinking about is specifically sold as a petrol tank re-line and sealer. Type 'fuel tank sealer' into ebay. Rustoleum do a similar product. Kits are available that also include cleaners. 

They must be long term petrol resistant or else it don't do what it says on the tin. 

Tony 

[Howard Cox]

Ok thanks Tony. I've removed the tank now and as is quite shiny and silver inside  (apart from that grungy blob in the centre section)  I’ve decided to soak in white vinegar for a few days then wash out with petrol. Should be ok. I've found that banjo bolts with filter sock aren't available anymore, so got a used one from Lotusbits. Fingers crossed. 👍