Engine mounts

[Jonathan]

Looks like you have to lift the engine quite high to pull the mounts out, I done the gearbox without lifting, just supporting but the engine ones look different.

I did think about jacking the engine but not too sure on whether this is safe to do (dont think it is) - I have a crane (Betsy) but nothing to really support the engine on.

Is it a tough job to do in this respect (I can see myself lifting the whole schebang out) or is it just as easy to get the local Lotus dealer to do it for

[Sparky]

Hi Jon

They're pretty easy to do, and you only have to lift the engine a couple of inches. It's possible to do them one at a time. Spread the load when jacking the sump, and it'll be fine.

I normally jam a ring spanner on the bottom, and turn the bolt from the top using a ratchet and long extension. The big bolt doesn't have to come right out of the mounting - it just needs to be pushed up when you remove the mounting itself. It's a bit fiddly to get at the 2 13mm mounting nuts/bolts on each side - ratchet spanners are a boon here. Dunno if you're planning to change the big mounting bolts, but you'll have a bad time getting the nearside one out!

You really should change the buffer washers too. Outrageously expensive.

Edited August 14, 2009 by sparky

[Jonathan]

Cheers Sparky - yeah I was a bit 'hmmmm' about the one next to the manifold.

I might have a look at doing it myself then. Buffer washers ? arnt they just metal oversized thick washers, like snubber washers on the suspension ?

[Sparky]

Not so simple, I'm afraid! The washers are rubber-clad and shaped specifically for top and bottom of the mount. Around

[silverfrost]

Hi Jonathan,

Did mine a few days ago, buffer washers are a must as the new engine mounts wont last five minutes with worn out ones. Expensive but when you see them they are pretty much like little mounts themselves so thats why they cost a bit.

Hilly put 2 pink dot mounts on his v8 and when i Ordered mine from SJs he also added a bit of trivia that the sport 300 also uses 2 pink dot mounts! you learn something new everyday

Regards danny

[Jonathan]

Cheers fellas - hard work with the heat shield you say ?

Off to lipscombs it is then

Thanks for the tips

[fjmuurling]

Hi Jonathan

I did them last year myself, they are not hard to to. I did lift the enigine just a little bit (I didn't want to put to much strain on the various hoses etc.) and removed the engine mounting legs (one at a time) in order to renew the engine mounts. I put the one with the pink dot on the hot (exhaust manifold) side and the one with the blue dot on the cold (RH) side. I also renewed all the nuts and bolts. Be very carefull when your remove the legs from the engine casting in order to avoid stripping the thread in the engine block. Use loctite when putting the bolts back which mount the legs to the engine. As for the heatshield it is not hard work but a big puzzle, I forget to take pictures when i removed the various parts of the heat shield.

As for lifting the engine I used a big piece of wood for spreading the load on the sump which I placed as forward as possible (across) in order to avoid pressure in the middle of the sump, when lifting the engine with my jack and while I was working I placed to axle stans under the beam. Also renew the big washers (top and bottom are different) they are relativly expensive but not changing them will ruin the new mounts in a short time.

Have fun,

Freek

[mr.oogieboogie]

i found a bottle jack and a wood pad for the engine took up only a small amount of space. the heat shield not too hard, ut threr are two bits bolted together and form almost an L shape (bolted together at the bottom) would reccomend putting in a new bolt and bolting them up off the car as trickey to get back together on the car

[Jonathan]

Hi, back again

I've just slackened the bolts down ready to take them off but worried about jacking the sump.

I've learned to throw caution at the wind becuase 1. this car is cursed 2. over the past 6 months everything I touch breaks, if it can go wrong it will go wrong.

A cracked sump will probably send me to the loony bin for the next 50 years so I'd like to be 100% sure on what I am doing.

i) 1st'y I'm looking at putting as much wood as possible across the sump to spread the load.

ii) I'm using a scissor jack

iii) I'm planning to crank it just high enough to get the mounts in and out (about 2")

My sticky is where to jack.

Furthest back is the ideal spot (more fulcrum less strain ?) but I cant seem to get in there easy.

Looking at the picture where is the best place to crank it do you think.

Oh btw, both mounts had both washers missing

I think this car was servied by Mr M.Mouse before hand....terrible

[andydclements]

Jack it using a block of wood to help spread the load, and go for the pint where the sump has strength in the direction of the jack, so near the flywheel.

[Jonathan]

So on this pic, along the very bottom then - thats the sump plug / gearbox end - Worried too far that end might require more push.

Well I'll give it a go, if you dont hear from me for a long time, you know it's gone wrong !

[Simon350S]

Did you say a dealer would change both mounts for £50 labour?

I can't see it myself unless they knew a super fast way, thats not even an hours labour!

[Jonathan]

Yeah that might have been last year, times are hard now

Only took me 10mins to take all but 1 bolt out (the one you cant get past the manifold grrrrrr ) - not as hard as I thought, easy an hour job.

Cant now thought becuase all the bolts are loose

I need some more M8's so I'll tackle it next week, just found an insanely thick bit of teak so that should spread the load OK.

Just really worried, last job I have to do before it's totally road worthy and I just want it to go without any hicups - as you can imagine any damage now would mean a few darns and shucks.

[mr.oogieboogie]

which bolt cant you get past the manifold

[Sparky]

Jon - that sump won't crack if you put any halfway decent bit of wood across - don't worry!

The left-hand mount bolt will not clear the manifold normally. What we've done is grind a bit off the head to remove it. You can usually persuade the new one past the manifold with a few gentle taps.

[rogerch]

I was thinking with the necessity to cant the engine to remove the left fuel tank I might take the mounts off to give them a quick tart up and paint. This thread is fast putting me off that idea.

[Jonathan]

Well thats that done.

Not too hard, once all the bolts are loose, I jacked it on a huge bit of wood bracing the sump along the sump plug where the engine meets the gearbox and winkled each mount out.

The gearbox mounts were none too happy with it but only took a few seconds to change and lower, getting them M8 bolts back in is a bit hard though.

Quick torque up and should be ready to roll !

Bit bum trembling but nice to have done the job without breaking the engine...so far...

Edited April 6, 2010 by Jonathan

[Simon350S]

Well done dudes

[Jonathan]

Aye, it's all go here - roof needs altering, lick of paint and it's ready for the road testing. Lets hope the engine gives me a few 1000 miles before going south.

[Vulcan Grey]

Jonathan,

As you know, my car has no rust issues

But I could not get the motor mount, on the hot side, off at all.

I had to unbolt the motor mount from the chassis and remove the mount with the engine.

I later had to cut the mount off the engine leg with a hacksaw.

ok, so maybe my car has some rust:(

[Jonathan]

No sympathies from me on the rust side

That makes up for it hehe - quick question...

Mine has no heat shield where you're showing it.....

I must admit I did look at it and think "hmm nice place to put a heat shield".

Think I might need to make one looking at that.

Edited April 6, 2010 by Jonathan

[Simon350S]

There should be one matey, its part of the set.

Maybe it was not replaced last time the mount was changed?

[Jonathan]

I think thats a safe bet, along with the bent control arms, un-tensioned differential - 1/2 the engine mount parts were missing LOL.