Electric Vacuum pump constantly pumping

[dodge1979]

Amongst other teethin niggles, Ive noticed the vacuum pump on my S4 is constantly pumping. The EBV valve has been removed completely, the vacuum hose from it plugged by looping it with a T-piece, the black and red vacuum hose comming from the little unit of the engine under the chargecooler has also had the same treatment, so essentially reduntant. This is how the lotusespritworld guide shows to do it, the linkage is being removed next week when the new throttle cable arrives..

So what can be causing it to run constantly, whether the engine is running or not..surely not right!What else does this little noisy box of tricks get used in..anything on the brake side of things? As Im having issues woth those too! See other post!

cheers for any insights...

Darren

[Sparky]

Well well, guess what else a vacuum leak would cause? A wooden brake pedal! Start at the pump and work away from it - you'll soon find the leak. Pump should run for only a few seconds at a time. You have a broken or disconnected hose.

[Iconic Ride]

That's all very well and good, Sparky, but I've found that, once finishing up vacuuming my Esprit, simply pulling the plug from the outlet usually turns it off without drama.

Just kidding, Darren. Hope you successfully find the leak.

[lrg_machine]

Darren

Is this the pump you're talking about?

Pump Pic

[Rich H]

That pump is different to my S4 pump and the vac lines don't go to the brakes on my S4 either!

I ripped out all the vac lines in the boot and re-plumbed it to remove all the redundant EBPV stuff.

Pull all the pipework to the throttle jack and EBPV all the way to the solenoids, then all the way form the solenoids back to the pump.

You need to keep the solenoids or it'll throw an ECL error.

Find the small nylon pipe that goes forward to the cabin and connect that directly to the pump output.

The connections are not that tight with new 3mm vac pipe so I put a small cable tie around each connection.

That removes 75% of the joints in the system that cause leaks.

Then get under the dash and find the distribution joint, it's a T piece with loads of little 90* rubber elbows on it.

I pulled them all off and replaced them with new vac hose and cable ties again.

This should fix the vac leaks, the vac pump should run for 30 secs max then stop.

To test it, ignition on but no start, once the pump stops, twist the RH heater control all the way to the right and you can hear the heater flap move with a hiss, move it a few times and you should hear the pump kick in again.

Took a few goes to get the joints sealed tight but it works well now.

[dodge1979]

Yes that pump is not the one on mine either. It goes to the two solenoids, for the ebc and throttle jack which I have closed off now and removed, so Im guessing it only runs the lines under the dash now for the heater? There are no vacuum lines going to the brake master cylinder or accumulator assembly, just solenoids and wiring plugs! It baffles me now! And also my clutch is deffo not working right..new master, slave, braided hose..bled several times and it still wont let you engage gears or bite point further up than on the floor..! Annoying!!

[Rich H]

Clutch is not related to the vac pump... I'd try adjusting the clutch fork but you need to understand what you are adjusting....

The vac pump will run the heater diverter and external air flap under the dash

[dodge1979]

Oh yes Im aware theyre completely unrelated items...these are just the last three things on the rebuild that are getting to me! The vauum pump being the least inportant..the naff clutch bite and brake pedal feel are priority!Clutch arm adjusted to no avail btw

[Rich H]

It seems that the hydraulics are a PITA on these cars...