Pulling the engine and box

[red vtec]

My head gasket has given up the ghost, it also looks like I have a leak from the water pump or a hose near that area. I have decided that I may as we'll pull the whole lot out and fix all the issues. As the chassis rail near the turbo needs recoating.

Any advice on how to go about it? I have access to a fork lift to lift the lot out. I helped out when Dave Freeman pulled his engine out so have a rough understanding of what to disconnect. Mine is a carb turbo, so no ecu etc.

I'm thinking head gasket, water pump, new silicon hoses, rebuild carbs, check clutch, drive shaft seals, clean up wireing, clean up engine bay, check manifold, respray plenum. Put back in!

Maybe green dot pulley?

Edited November 12, 2013 by red vtec

[Mike6]

Hi Chris

 

You can do all that lot without taking out the engine. I can testify to that and its not a bad job. Have you done a compression test as I also replaced big ends, pistons and liners all with engine in situ. You might not need to do all that but a new set of piston rings probably wouldn't go amiss.

 

Mike

[red vtec]

The main advantage of pulling it all out is that I could put the block on a stand and work on it in the garage. if I leave it in the car it will mean being outside.

 

I will do a compression test first.

[espritmania]

I think that pulling  it out is a wise option,I have just finished refurbing the engine.I found loads of smaller jobs which I did while the engine was out.

[red vtec]

i'd like to get the car fully sorted, i'm always fixing small stuff i'm thinking bite the bullet and restore

[troutrou]

Well if you take it out then it would be the ideal time to remove both fuel tanks to check their butt for rust, refurbish or replace them if need be, replace the foam tehy sit on, clean and treat the area, check the health of the fuel pipes... sort out all the fuel system in short...

On an old '88 it would surprising if the tanks were spotless especially if your car sleeps outisde in the damp, as I understand it ?! Well unless some previous owner kindly took care of that side of things in the past, if you are lucky.

Edited November 12, 2013 by Vince

[pete]

petrol tanks?

petrol tanks?

someone else beat me to it

[Vanya]

Speaking of the petrol tanks, what do the stock ones look like? Mine look like alloy from above and spotless from the little hole beneath - I'm wondering if the PO changed them since I don't have any paperwork mentioning it (maybe need to re-check) - in any case they look to be made of the same material as my header tanks which were replaced in alloy some time back and are spotless still today...

[jonwat]

Speaking of the petrol tanks, what do the stock ones look like? 

Stock ones are painted with flaking black paint & pitted with rust, pictures here.

 

Yours sound like alloy. 

[Vanya]

If they are (will have a closer look when the opportunity presents itself), I'm gonna have myself a cold beer in celebration. Or dance a jig.

[red vtec]

I have alloy tanks already fitted

[mdw]

You will find a lot more to do and replace than you plan at the moment but it will be a lot lot easier especially as winters nearly here. I looked at it that what ever jobs I did I knew I wasn't going to have to redo them for a long long time, if ever.

[red vtec]

I'm looking at this to rebuild the esprit that I want, iron out all the bodges, that have been done over the years and upgrade a few bits to a modern standard.

[Mike6]

Hope you have deep pockets. There is an endless list of things that are advisable to do with the engine out

[red vtec]

Right what is the best way to pull the box and engine out? all in one? split then take out in two? what is the best way to disconnect the drive shafts from the box?

 

I have no problem lifting it out as I will be using a merlo telescopic handler with a 9m arm and 2.5 ton capacity on it!!

 

Thanks for any advice

[Escape]

We pulled the engine and box as one piece. Separating them is much easier on the bench, putting them back together even more so.

The driveshafts I disconnected at the box, by tapping out the 2 rollpins in each CV. I needed to split the box, so they had to come off anyway.

 

It worked great with a forklift (with extended forks), should be even better with a telehandler, as long as you have enough room to manoeuvre.

 

Filip

[mdw]

Undo the Cvs rather than the roll pins unless youneed to.

[mdw]

Oh forgot to say the grease in the cv joints will now be oil , not a lot but will run out when you cut the clips off and remove the gaiter.  I did mine in the garage and lifted them in 2 bits which allowed me to leave the tail gate place on its struts.  If taking out in 1 chunk I think you have to prop the tailgate up vertically  and lift the lot at quite an angle. 

Edited November 29, 2013 by mdw

[Escape]

We removed the tailgate completey. You are right about lifting at an angle to get the box to clear the rear of the car. But with a forklift or telehandler that's not a problem.

Also agree that if you don't need to split the box, it would be easier to separate the CVs.

[red vtec]

I will split the box if it's coming out I may as we'll check the clutch

[Escape]

I will split the box if it's coming out I may as we'll check the clutch

 

To clarify, when I said I needed to split the box I meant take apart both halves to access the differential bearings. Not just separate it from the engine to check the clutch. The latter you can do with the roll pins in place.

 

Filip