S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation

[Lotusfab]

Where did you get the studs and gasket from?

Edited October 17, 2015 by Lotusfab

[Lotusfab]

Have found a lotus service bulletin for the fitting of the head gasket for a later engine.  It seems to imply fitting the gasket without sealant??? has anyone done this, would be a real pain to fit without sealant and find its a disaster. May contact The gasket manufacturor and ask them? Heres the extract,,,

Geotze head gasket (B912E7029Z) installation

Tuesday, 13 May 2014 12:26 Lotus Esprit

The following information has been extracted from Lotus Service bulletin 1993/07. 
This bulletin covers the introduction of a thicker composite gasket as a direct replacement for the various laminated type gaskets. 
The new composite gasket offers a number of improvements over the original laminated construction gasket. 

The original Lotus Service Bulletin had two omissions/errors relating to the later type of cylinder head studs to be fitted and the tightening procedure. 
This information has been amended so the revised bulletin below is correct to follow.

Whilst the primary content of this bulletin is correct and is still applicable, some improvements in terms of available sealant technology have taken place since 1993. 
Loctite 567 is highly recommended as a superior alternative to 572. 
This latest product offers an elevated temperature range, improved sealing ability and easy removal of cylinder liners.

Great care needs to be exercised when installing a new head gasket. 
Make sure all the surfaces are flat and spotlessly clean. 
Locate the new gasket on the two dowels that protrude from the cylinder block. 
Then check that the integral oil seal in the gasket is in alignment with the oil feed gallery that delivers oil from the block to the cylinder head.
                     

Lotus Service bulletin 1993/07

TITLE:            Introduction of revised cylinder block, head & gasket

REASON:       Quality improvement.

                      The cylinder block and cylinder head of the Lotus 910/920 engine have been re-cast and upgraded in respect to stiffness, lightness, cooling efficiency and dimensional control. In addition, a new type of cylinder head gasket has an increased tolerance to severe thermo-cycling, and improved durability.

ACTION:        The new components have been introduced on engine serial number: 28096 (last 5 digits of engine number) - January 1993.

With the exception of the block deck height and various core and blanking plugs, the new block and head share all functional dimensions with the old type, and when service stocks of the older components are exhausted, the new parts will replace them. 
New heads may be fitted to old blocks and vice versa, but the new head gasket should be used in both cases.

The new block and head may be readily identified by cast Lotus logos on the front and rear faces of the cylinder head and at the top right hand rear of the block.
 

Cylinder Head Gasket

The steel and asbestos laminated gasket, B907EO026Z (Coopers - silver incolour) has been replaced by a reinforced fibre-composite gasket A912E7029Z (Goetze - grey/brown in colour) 
This uses a built-in silicone sealing bead around the periphery and a Viton seal around the oil feed hole. 
The compressed thickness of the new gasket is approx. 0.5 mm (0.020") greater than the old gasket and the deck face and liner seats of the new cylinder block have been lowered by a corresponding amount.

Service Replacement

i)   New engines must be fitted only with the new type gasket. Fitment of an old type gasket to these engines may result in piston foul and/or detonation due to the raised compression. 

ii)   When stocks of the old gaskets are exhausted, old engines should be fitted with the now gasket, which will also replace the 'extra laminate' thicker gaskets (A911E1292, B911E1292) used on some low compression 912 N.A. engines.

Note that the extra thickness of the Goetze gasket will result in a slight reduction in compression ratio (typically about - 0.5 numerically) when used on old engines. 
This may be advantageous to fuel octane tolerance, especially if the head face has been machined to correct distortion or erosion.


Goetze Gasket Fitting Procedure   

There are two points to note when fitting the new type gasket to new or old type engines:

a)       New engines must be fitted only with the new type gasket.

b)      The cylinder head nut tightening procedure has been amended and requires the use of an angle gauge. A Sykes Pickavant tool under Lotus Part No. TOOOT1235 will be despatched and invoiced to all dealers shortly.

Use the latest type cylinder head studs (B907E0224Z) identified by the dimple machined in the top end. Tighten into the block (with oiled threads) to 37 - 41 Nm (27 - 30 lbs.ft).

Fit head gasket (dry) and cylinder head. Fit washers, oil head stud threads and fit nuts.

Using the existing tightening sequence (from the centre outwards; see Service Notes EB.7),

Tighten the head nuts in the following stages:

i)        20 Nm (15 lbs.ft).

ii)                   + 75 degrees

iii)                  + 40 degrees

iv)                 Wait 5 minutes 

v)                   + 20 degrees


Cylinder Liner Adhesive

The sealant used between the base of the cylinder liners and the block (formerly Hylomar) has been changed to Loctite 572 adhesive/sealant (A912E7030V) in order to reduce fretting and noise; improve sealing durability; reduce the risk of liner disturbance with the cylinder head removed. The use of Loctite 572 has been introduced together with the new block and head castings, but may be used on all Lotus 900 series engines. Loctite 572 Application Procedure:

Thoroughly clean the liner spigot and seat, and the corres­ponding areas in the block.

Dry fit the liners and check that there is a nominal clearance between the top ends of the liners. 
Check the stand-out of the liners above the block deck face (liner 'nip') which is unchanged at: - 0.03 mm to + 0.05 mm (- 0.001 to + 0.002 in);

Maximum variation between adjacent liners: 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
Apply a small bead of Loctite around the seating face of the liner.
Apply a thin smear of Loctite around the outside of the liner spigot.
Apply a thin smear of Loctite around the top edge of the liner spigot bore in the block.
Slide the liners into the block and fit the cylinder head within 4 hours to ensure that the liners are seated correctly before the adhesive cures.
If this procedure is used on an “old” engine, apply a red paint mark for reference to the cylinder block at the end of the engine number stamping.

Note that when assembled as above, the liners will subsequently require the use of a liner puller tool (TOOOT0012A - existing part of the dealer special tool kit) in order to extract a liner from the block. 
The improved security of the liners also means that if care is taken, there is no necessity to reseal the liners in the normal course of cylinder head removal/refit

Cylinder head layout and orientation

Lotus Esprit cylinder head tightening sequence                 

Summary
Vehicle manufacturers specify torque values for certain fasteners such as cylinder head studs and nuts. 
This is to make sure that fasteners are not over-tightened or under-tightened. 
The torque wrench is used to apply a specified amount of torque to a fastener. 
The torque angle gauge is used to make sure there is equal tightness across all fasteners on a particular component.

Has anyone measured the liner nip without the special tool using a engineer straight edge and feeler guages?

Edited October 17, 2015 by Lotusfab

[910Esprit]

The Goetze gasket has a 'rubber' bead built into it, so I've always fitted them dry, however its not unknown from them to weep water to the outside world (whilst still being completely gas tight).   I think thats what makes 'nip' critical.   I use the procedure above (new type studs and the angle gauge).   Mines a 910, but don't think there will be any difference - other than increased combustion pressures.   I've seen other references to people successfully using sealant on the outside edge of the gasket without any apparent problems.      

[Lotusfab]

Just run the engine after some more bleeding up to operating temp. The radiator is now working!!! Must have been air. The engine is running cooler. But just noticed a potential disaster, whats wrong with this picture? The timing belts runing about 4 mm of the oil pump pulley! Cant be long before belt failure? Im sure I would have noticed this if it was like it before. What has changed? Maybe the pulley is about to fall off or can it be the camshaft pulleys are in the wrong place? Any help gratefully accepted.

Edited October 17, 2015 by Lotusfab

[Paul Coleman]

I spent a long while talking to Gary Kemp when I had my head gasket issues (nice bloke and very helpful). He's built hundreds of 907 engines for both race and road use and he always uses the torque figures in the workshop manual (not the angle torque figures). I did the same and applied Wellseal to both sides and it isn't leaking. The company who fitted the liners for me used a straight edge and feeler gauges to check the nip when I thought that was the problem.

I bought the gasket and studs from Steve.

The belt does run right on the edge of the auxiliary pulley and almost touches the housing - there's only about a millimetre of clearance.

[Lotusfab]

Thanks Paul,

Just been back out there. The belt was running 4 mm off the pulley, got a torch and mirror, the allen screw holding the pulley was almost completly undone and the pulley had slipped half way off the shaft so you could see the key! I have tightened it and the belt is now running on the edge of the pulley. Dont know ho long its been like that but I guess the timing belt now must be changed! What a lucky escape.

[Paul Coleman]

Another little job to keep you amused and busy I think by now, if I were you, I'd be regretting ever buying the thing! I thought mine was bad enough hahaha

Has it damaged the belt? Do you have a Borroughs gauge or a Krikit to check the tension?

[Lotusfab]

The dreams still alive and I see Roger moore tomorrow, but its only just hanging on. Wasnt expecting to change any belts or rebuild anything on the engine. The gears clutch are pretty good. But now it seems I should have taken the engine to pieces and checked. Every part whilst it was on the chasis. No I dont have any guages! The belt is still intact and it runs fine.but needs changing because its been running on the edge. The engine no longer overheats with the bleeding and new pipe arragement. The radiators finally working and the coolant no longer empties, it runs at about 86 degrees, but there is still a residue in the new header tank! Seems like it could be oil residue. However the cars now running pretty good. It starts first time hot or cold.  Have a block test kit coming. Have driven the car across the drive no backfiring or spitting idles at 1000 rpm pretty sweet. So do I take it all to pieces or just upgrade the radiator, new timing belt and drive it. In theory should easily be able rebuild it in a matter of a few weeks. The thought of doing it is not appealing. Sixteen months every day has taken its toll. Will once again require a lot of research to ensure the best possible rebuild if I go down that route. Will also have to buy a lot of tools. May just drive it and see what happens! 

When I change the timing belt why do you have to remove the crankshaft pulley? Cant you loosen the belt tensioner, pop the oil pump pulley off and remove the timing belt?

Edited October 17, 2015 by Lotusfab

[jonroberts]

You have to remove the pulley (not the sprocket) otherwise the belt won't come off because the pulley traps it. Just change the belt and drive the thing !!!!!  

[Paul Coleman]

You don't need to remove the auxiliary pulley but you do need to remove the pipe off the bottom of the water pump - that's fun The pipe goes through the belt so that will mean bleeding it again!

When you refit the crank pulley put some anti-seize on it for future.

I'm with Jon just drive the bloody thing.

[Lotusfab]

Glad you told me that Paul. Have been flushing out the coolant and was going to refill but will change the belt first. Where did you get a tensioner from? Cant go very far till my seats come back which maybe next year! Went a few yards today, at least the doors and electric windows work. Would be a great car if you just wanted to sit in it without moving!

Edited October 17, 2015 by Lotusfab

[Paul Coleman]

It will be interesting to see if it's a disappointment when you come to drive it. I've got a leaking water pump to block seal but I'm just driving it and re-filling now and again as I can't be bothered to fix it right now! I still haven't fixed the electric windows and I don't have any door cards at all. I now also have an irritating rattling noise that I can't pin point. It disappears when I drop the clutch though?

I bought a new tensioner bearing from Steve. My car doesn't have the automatic tensioner though. You'll need a gauge to check the tension unless you use the twist method. I have a borroughs gauge which I bought off an ex-owner for £25

 

[Lotusfab]

Now witness the speed of this fully operational Esprit S1! Have put the rear spoiler on and plan to drive when I get the trim back!!! Well almost fully operational?????

Well it looks quick anyway!

[gvy]

What a fabulous S1 . Love it.

Geert

[Lotusfab]

Thanks Geert. Just been to the Roger Moore show. Someone asked him how did he find driving the Esprit in the spy who loved me? He said it was a good sports car, but overheated whilst he was in the car running the engine whilst waiting for the next scene! He also said he didnt buy one because Lotus would only give him a ten percent discount!

[Bibs]

Heard exactly the same when I saw him last year in Pompy! 

[Lotusfab]

Bought the Bond on Bond book at the show. Didnt realise the info on the Lotus is inside! Its says the car was plagued by overheating and the battery kept going flat. It also says it was decided to drive the car from London to Cannes for the film festival in May 1977. They took bets on how far it would get. It made it to Lyon before being towed to a local garage. It limped into Cannes and was parked outside the Carlton Hotel. Where it could not be moved due to a flat battery. A team of mechanics fixed it during the dead of night! At least I have a garage and a feeling I might be using it a lot!

Edited October 19, 2015 by Lotusfab

[Lotusfab]

[Rolls]

. I now also have an irritating rattling noise that I can't pin point. It disappears when I drop the clutch though?

If it's worse when the engine and gearbox is warm just tighten your clutch cable slightly. Easy fix.

[Paul Coleman]

At least I have a garage and a feeling I might be using it a lot!

I seem to spend more time fixing it than actually driving it hahaha

If it's worse when the engine and gearbox is warm just tighten your clutch cable slightly. Easy fix.

Yes it does get worse when the engine is warm. What do you mean "tighten the cable?"

[Lotusfab]

Has anyone got any pictures of the original S1 tool kit?

Close up pictures of each tool would be great!

[Lotusfab]

Found this on the internet, is it correct?

[Paul Coleman]

I have been trying to find out exactly which tools my S1 would have come with. The parts manual calls for this...

All of Renn's tools above are correct but there're some missing... there should be an adjustable spanner, a tommy bar and a wheel brace. There should also possibly be a small spanner.

[Lotusfab]

Mmm must be someone on here with an original full kit that could take some pics? The pliers look like they came from the 30s!

Edited October 19, 2015 by Lotusfab

[Paul Coleman]

I haven't found anybody who still has the full toolkit for their S1. The pliers and spanners are marked TW Made in England and the spanners had the work Superslim on them. The spanners are 19/17mm and 13/10mm. The box spanner fits the spark plug. The loopy wire screwdriver looks like something a school boy would make for his first project in metalwork. Don't think you can get the tool roll anywhere.

Have you got a jack, handle and wheel brace? They're as rare as rocking horse excrement.

The previous owner of my car found a load of the tools in his garage over the weekend and he also found the original owner's manual (which has unfortunately suffered some water damage) but I've never seen another original copy.