An idea for rusty petrol tanks (or not rusty infact!)

[Stimpy]

When I decided to add a little protection to my Stag against the dreaded 'metal cancer' I did some research and found a product that you could spray on panels to convert exiisting rust and cover non-rusted metal against future rustage.

 

The point to this is that the aerosol came with a 3' long tube with an end that sprayed the stuff out sideways (like putting your thumb over a garden hose).

 

The question is..... considering how difficult swapping out tanks is, maybe this is a method to arrest the rust in place and also to coat the tank in the stuff so it doesn't start.

 

I was told that you could get up to the tanks via the scoops behind the doors but I suspect you could feed the (very thin) tube down from inside the engine area as well.

 

This is a 'double style' post - ie 1) An idea for everyone and/or 2) Whether people think its possible to do (ie get to the right areas).

 

On my mini I drilled a small hole under the chrome covers of the door frame (not the door, the body side) after drilling the hole I could guide the pipe either way to coat everything within.

 

So there's my "idea of the day" - hope you like it!!

[Bibs]

The scoops behind the doors are air intakes mate, rhs is your air intake and lhs onto manifold area. The fuel tanks are under the carpet covered boards you can see through the rear quarterlight windows. 

 

Esprit fuel tanks rust because they're sat on a piece of open cell foam, which is a sponge. This gets wet, the tank rusts. The answer to this is to remove the foam and replace it with closed cell foam, no other option. 

[dodge1979]

As above. Once its set in thats it. You cant eradicate it without removal of the tanks. Steve dont try and short cut now!

[Stimpy]

I take what you say on - don't worry!

 

I was told that water can ingress through those scoops and make there way to the tank area - but maybe not.

 

I think it's a good idea to use a metal protectant even if there's no rust - like waxoyl (although waxoyl is awful to put on!)

[dodge1979]

Well once the rust is removed they can be protected properly..without skimping on the cost. Not that its expensive to do.then theyll either outlive the life of the car or the owner..

[Stimpy]

Makes you think why didnt they make the tanks out of aluminium.

[DanR]

When I did my tanks I used door mats. The type that look like a tangle of fishing line. Being so open against the metal they breathe and keep the tanks dry. Fold and glue one so there's weave against the tank and supporting glass and cut to shape.

 

I did check out the closed cell foam. If any water, there are large holes under the tanks open to the road, does happen to get forced between it and the metal there's no where for the water to go which could initiate the rust again.

 

I've taken my tanks out a few years later to check and there'd been no change from when I did the work.

[Chillidoggy]

What's involved in removing the tanks for inspection/replacement? I can't imagine it's a walk in the park, is it an engine out job?

[Alex Carter]

On my thread there's pictures I did both

[Vanya]

What's involved in removing the tanks for inspection/replacement? I can't imagine it's a walk in the park, is it an engine out job?

To put it shortly, yes.

Are your tanks original? I found someone had replaced mine with alloy, without documenting it. Quelle surprise! You might be just as lucky. 

[Chillidoggy]

I don't know if they are original yet, I believe the RHS one has been out, but not entirely sure. I don't mind doing the work, as long as I know the procedure, and whether it's necessary to get under the car, or simply employ a very small person with 10" long fingers, one of which has an eye at the end of it.

[Vanya]

One of the tanks (passenger side I believe) doesn't require the engine to be entirely lifted out but considering the hassle I think you might as well pull it if you're going to be changing the tanks - that way you can get all sorts of other things done while you're at it...

 

Inspection of tank condition is also impossible with engine in situ, although you'll instantly know whether they're alloy or original - the originals are painted black. Just remove the quarter panel covers in the boot and you'll know soon enough! 

[espritmania]

Hi,It's a bitch of a job.Did both of mine with the engine out and it was still a pain.

[Chillidoggy]

Can you enlarge on the 'bitch of a job' bit? Awkward? Rusty bolts? Poor access? Or simply all three?!

[mdw]

The bulk of it is getting other stuff out of the way to get the tanks out.  Its just time consuming.  Allow a day a side and work methodically  and you will be fine. You can do it with the engine in place but may need to remove the l/h mount to lower the engine a little although  some esprits you can do it without.  If your 1/4 light seals are on the way out maybe cut the glass out with a wire and then refit them afterwards.  There are loads of threads on here re the tanks and the 1/4 light glass refitting.  

[Chillidoggy]

Much obliged!

[mdw]

Oh and whilst you are undressing half the engine bay there is plenty of scope for those "oh I might as well replace that bit whilst I am here" moments  and not forgetting the "oh $%^&*% that bit broke  and needs replacing " moments as well.

 

There are 3 or 4 rivnuts and bolts each side that hold the tank side panels on and 1/3rd of those bolts were rusted resulting in the rivnut spinning.  You can loose  an hour dicking about removing them so maybe get them off the night before then you can crack on with it.  You will probably need to make up new plywood top panels  as my r/h one  had totally disintegrated and there is a fair bit of kit fixed to the panel.   I did mine with engine in ( its an n/a so a walk in the park).

[Stimpy]

The info I got was RHS tank = no need for engine removal

LHS= engine out.

 

Depending on your finances at the time (ie low!)  you could isolate the LHS tank and have the RHS renewed.

 

Surely the bottom of the tank can be examined by one of those thin long camera type things?

[pete]

have been running on one tank for a while without a problem. Yes you can get a camera in but on mine there were some baffles in the way which meant we could not see right down the bottom and into the swirl tank

[dodge1979]

you can just look through the large underside hole in the body and get an idea..if it looks damp or corroded by any amount then your probably looking at the better part..itll be worse when you take them out and get them shot blasted..then youll see the extent of pinholing etc..but they can be repaired and at a lot less than replacement of them. If you block off the l/h tank youll have no sender unit so your gauge wont read correct. And im sure you've had enough experience of running out of fuel so far Steve... Unless theyre dripping fuel, don't worry about them just yet..its a winter job so why don't you get the actuator sorted and use the car for a few months over the rest of the summer and enjoy it, then compile a list of job or things to look at and take it from there over the winter...

[mdw]

A lot depends on the model.  The only one I have done was my Stevens n/a which was easy. Didn't even need to lower the l/h side  of the engine.

[Stimpy]

you can just look through the large underside hole in the body and get an idea..if it looks damp or corroded by any amount then your probably looking at the better part..itll be worse when you take them out and get them shot blasted..then youll see the extent of pinholing etc..but they can be repaired and at a lot less than replacement of them. If you block off the l/h tank youll have no sender unit so your gauge wont read correct. And im sure you've had enough experience of running out of fuel so far Steve... Unless theyre dripping fuel, don't worry about them just yet..its a winter job so why don't you get the actuator sorted and use the car for a few months over the rest of the summer and enjoy it, then compile a list of job or things to look at and take it from there over the winter...

Some good points.

--as well as a reminder of my little 'incident' - I now know that 'Empty' is actually a bit up from the 'empty line'.  The last time I did that was with a car that became empty halfway through the red chunk on the petrol gauge - It was a mk 1 vauxhall cavalier and happened in the 80's as a teenager!   :-)

 

As Taff said - the tanks could last a year or 10 years - at this moment it's too hard to predict.

 

The actuator is right up there at first place on the list, as it happens.

 

It's not meant to be my daily drive-2-work car but for the moment I can't help myself from using it.  As I remembered - these cars are addictive!

[Chillidoggy]

There must surely be an Esprit technical instruction manual for dealers? If so, does it detail fuel tank removal?

[Bibs]

That's the workshop manual, available to buy still. The only extra dealers get is a warranty time guide for work.

[Chillidoggy]

And I reckon from what I've read it could be a wide time range!

 

Just curious if it states engine removal is required for the passenger side tank, though.