S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

[marcbria]

Hey Roland,

 

You mentioned you have no T piece on the fuel vent lines and that it matches the diagram perfectly. Is this the diagram your referring to? I've been trying to rebuild the system on my car with rather little luck, can't make heads or tales of what was originally on mine. If you've got a different diagram do you mind posting it this is the one in my manual. 

 

Brian 

[Barrykearley]

Hmm.... Play with the swing, trampoline or chassis? Tough decision.

image.jpg

Go for the ladder!!

[Rolls]

Hi Brian

Diagram refers to my squiggles not offical parts diagrams.

My system has no T piece on the air box. Just two seperate tubes that run around the window and exit out the body on the drivers side down low (through a rubber grommet). Appears to be original as the plastic pipe was quite brittle but others will verify if it was supposed to go back to the air box per your diagram.

Cheers

[Rolls]

Any tips on how to economicaly import parts to Australia?

Currently looking at $1800 AU in extra charges to import some parts. Small bits and pieces.

because the order is over a $1000 AU there are high taxes etc. Does anyone here use, (um - I mean know someone of course) a mail redirection service?

Any other suggestions?

[Freemason]

Who are you ordering from? Importing anything over the $1000 threshold must me avoided at all costs, it's happened to me on a couple of occasions and not only do you have to pay the 10% GST but they also slug you with a host of other duties and fees. 

 

Things I have done in the past to avoid paying GST + import duties:

 

- Ask the seller to 'undervalue' cost of goods on the customs forms and include the 'real' invoice hidden inside one of the items in package. 

 

- Ask seller to send the goods in two lots.

 

- If seller is inflexible and by-the-book break payment up into separate orders that fall below the $1000 threshold. 

 

Good luck!

[langleytw]

A public forum is not the best place to discuss evading taxes and duties........

 

I do know that if the goods are for family use then the combined annual allowance may be used quite legitimately.

 

I'm sure many of the parts you need can be sourced in Oz.

[Rolls]

Q: regarding body work: should I sand the entire car then fill the cracks or repair cracks then entire car. Logic would suggest the latter.

[DaveyT]

Agree on the latter, it's the approach we are taking...

I assume that your painter will be doing the final prep tho? ( final stoppering, checking flatness after prime etc). There's only so much you can do before a single colour, eg primer, goes on as you can't see all of the imperfections until you get to that stage

ATB

Dave

[Rolls]

Started to tackle the bodywork:

Groove out the stress cracks with my trusty dremel.

Before

After

Q: Are these gouges deep enough? Do I just fill with resin mixed with thickener? Or should I make them wider and use fibreglass tape?

Looks like something knocked the rear arch in transport so lots of mini stress cracks here.

This section had some deep crazing. I hate sanding off the corners as you've got to recreate the edge. A royal PITA. Fun!

Not sure if I should gouge out these faint ones. See the one at the end of my finger heading right. thoughts?

Once I'm confident that I have all of the gouges right I'll start filling.

Dave - yes I will be using a pannel beater for shooting. Cheers

[DaveyT]

Looks very like mine at that stage. Just make sure you go a half inch past the end of each crack, then wet it down to see if you've gone deep enough.

After this stage, I took a flap grinder to the whole surrounding area to give about .5mm relief for the glass cloth to be laid over the top using epoxy. Think there's a couple of pics in my blog.

Then sand again back to the original level, stopper, sand, stopper...you get the picture

Have fun!

[jonwat]

If you just fill, flat & then paint over those cracks you've gouged out then you'll get paint shrinkage along the length of them.

 

The whole area needs to be ground away & covered with tissue before filling.

 

I strongly recommend reading Miles Wilkins' "How To Restore Fibreglass Bodywork" which is still available on Amazon (sorry can't paste link)

[DaveyT]

^^ totally agree, more detail in pm. D

[Paul Coleman]

When I did mine I went right through the gel coat about an inch wide. One of mine was about a foot long and I drilled a round hole in the ends of the cracks to relieve the stress there so that it won't just come straight back. I then used a few layers of tissue to bring the height back until a thin skim with filler got the levels all back to where they should be. As you say, on the edges it takes ages to blend the shape in.

 

My car had three (yes three) aerial holes in it - must have been a taxi in a previous life?

[Rolls]

Folks, could I ask if and who are the alternative parts suppliers to S&J? I've looked online but the alternative suppliers appear to have limited inventory.

Is there anyone outside of the UK? Say for example the U.S.?

Thanks

[Freemason]

http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk

 

http://www.espritengineering.co.uk

 

http://lotusmarques.com

Edited August 17, 2015 by Freemason

[jtmco]

http://www.rdent.com/

 

Webpage does not show all that they have and I don't know that the inventory is even as good as S&J, but it is a US option.  Ray was friendly on the phone.

 

http://www.jaeparts.com/  - Again, you need to contact them to ask what they have.  There is a "Links" page with more vendors.

 

Good luck.

 

Jim

[Rolls]

Nothing better than coming home from a crappy day at work and then pulling stuff apart. Stink of grease, cold beer, favourite tunes....

And hanging out with porno dog

[Rolls]

Engine is out at last. Much easier when it's upside down.

Very slow going at the moment. I keep staring at this hunk of metal. Very tempting to have a crack at rebuilding the engine! 

 

Edited September 17, 2015 by Rolls

[Freemason]

I know the feeling! I find that every little thing takes so long on my project, feels like it won't be finished in my lifetime...

I thought the engine rebuild was supposed to be last thing to be done before getting the car back on the road?

[Rolls]

Chassis sandblasted and POR15 posphated.

Discovered a small kink in the front strut support which will need to be straightened... Minor job. Does anyone know of the exisitance of chassis measurements? I intend til jig mine to ensure its perfectly straight.

Can't wait!

[Freemason]

Nice work! So the rust wasn't too bad then? Nothing needs new metal?

I expect you will know better than I did when I was painting my chassis and won't make the same mistakes!

How are you planning on painting the inside of the front and central box sections? I would recommend getting a can of something (I used cold gal on my front section) and doing one side at a time. You can get your arm and a paintbrush through the gear lever hole but the tight space is very awkward and you're working blind so the paint you manage to slap in there will get messy. 

Edited October 10, 2015 by Freemason

[Rolls]

Metal is excellent. Only big task is checking the chassis for alignment. Need those measurements!

Thanks - great tip on the inside tunnel. What brand of paint did you use? ive already zinc phosphated the tunnel so I guess I will need to be careful with what I put over it. I don't think I can now apply a cold gal as it will react with the zing phosphate coating.

Hoping to make a start tonight.

Wont make the same mistake - arm will be wrapped in glad wrap! Lol

Edited October 10, 2015 by Rolls

[Freemason]

Great stuff, looks like your chassis is in much better shape than mine was.

I used this stuff on the front box section:

 

 

I suppose you could go to Bunnings and find an equivalent decent rust preventative aerosol paint that won't react with the stuff you already have on there and use that. 

[Rolls]

Started to apply POR - I love this stuff!

For the second image - On the top its phosphated, on the bottom is the first coat (The brush marks disappear).

[Rolls]

Still researching engine rebuild options and I came across this article on the Jensen forum - may be of interest to some....

http://www.jensenhealey.com/html/eng.html