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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

The Has anyone bought this alternator, if so can you recommend it? 

Do you have AC, if so thats no good.   Not much of an upgrade, looks to be 5 amps less than the original!    However, its very cheap, so I assume its a generic Chinese unit, having said that, I'm sure it will work fine.  

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Fabain,

I'm following your thread with keen interest.  Your efforts are EPIC.  I am so inspired.  As everyday passes another ghastly shapeless electric vehicle plugs to the IoT and it's another 24hours more where mechanics, engineers and people like you who solve problems with their hands are assigned to history.  It's truly amazing this entire nut and bolt re-build of yours.  All the things you've got to know, understand, anticipate and then do.  Awesome.  Keep it up.B-)

Meanwhile, I bring up the topic of ski racks.

I posted a comment a year+ back and now can't find it, but I've a ski rack project this year as I intend to take my S3 to the alps with my skis on the back.

This is NOT a 'make my car look like a Bond car'. Here's why:

  1. Bond is a fictional (albeit brilliant) character; and what happens in films isn't a reflection of real life.
  2. The ski rack on his Turbo was a prop.  In all likelihood enhanced with painted balsa and a bit of tape.  The skis were probably drilled into the prop so they didn't fall off when making a turn. Any photo I see on the net look like the skis would flap about and rattle unless clamped down somehow - what happens at 70mph+  the vibrations and bouncing could rip things apart...
  3. Bond has a Copper Turbo.  I have a blue S3.

 

So i'm taking all this into account. mine is a 'ski rack for a Lotus' project - this is an important mental concept.

For stimulus in your design, I'm deciding whether to drill the racks into the tailgate, find a tailgate, build a new tailgate or mount the racks onto a separate surface that is then placed onto the body using suction cups... if anyone reading this has a tailgate, then be in touch. Ta.

I know if I screw/bolt the racks into the tailgate, I've put holes in a Lotus - but it's my car and the point is to use it and not keep it under a blanket for the next generation. :)

 

Have a look at the profile of the MDF experiments.  I have a contact in a design company with a fancy laser cutter so I think were going for a plastic build. Again, not sure if I need to copy the Bond design, but instead a different profile perhaps.

I appreciate yours will have to be authentic to the original.

If it's of help for your own experiments, the base for the rack (top piece) is a square 260mm x 260mm. I did this to allow for the wider skis you get in 2017.  Your Olins are longer and thinner (it's a miracle people could control them in '77).

The bottom rack, where the base of the skis sit, I've called the cradle.  Those dimensions are 260mm in width and 160mm from front to back.  Both the top piece and cradle I shall re build with different dimensions as when I offered it up to the car (see photo below), I think it's an okay fit, but could do better next time.  Things are easier and quicker with a laser cutter and some prototyping foam than doing it all by hand with MDF and a handsaw...

What measurements are you working off, or all by eye and 'does it look right? method.

 

Andy

 

IMG_1715.JPG.966fe092b2c4530eaa50ac32f1a94323.JPG

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Hi Andy thanks for the kind comments. I havn't had any time to start making these yet, as I'm too busy at work and doing the other parts.  Thanks for the pictures they are very informative. I agree with your thoughts the film racks were props and not designed for real use. I have thought about the best way to construct these. For me they must be identical to the originals or pretty close.  The best place to start I think is with conventional racks that have been sold and tested then adapt the design. I have some Peugeot ones that are like a metal opening bracket with rubber jaws and a lock on the side.  I believe they must be bolted to the tailgate with a spreader plate on underside of the Fiberglass.

I like Matts!

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When I finally make something I will stick some pictures on here. I have no problem with drilling the tailgate. I will also be modifying the rear louvres to early dry sump config!

Ps Matt, I also like your other car!

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IMG_1702.JPG.c377604835494cc87885977d75510ddc.JPG 

Hi Matt - thanks.  Good to heat there's the actual mould out there.  Have you other images and dimensions (the cheek!).   I'll post up the drawings of my v2.0 experiments once they've been cut.   I've been looking at the car from all angles and placing different ski's on them to compare.  @Fabian - I was thinking of a screw thread that sits between the two skis that pushes down a metal plate onto the top of the skis - easier to show the bar napkin sketch here...

IMG_1744.JPG.2da393948e7133305f157ecf021bbd3d.JPG

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It's clear there's a number of ways to do this.  You're all capable of working up complex or simple ways to do it.

It's all about balancing 'need to stop these skis falling off en route to the alps' = grip solution 1.  This means a tight, locked and secure fixing to keep secure from vibrations etc.

There i also the 'need to clamp these down for the short ride from hotel to the ski slope and unhook them in a smug fashion for all to see' = grip solution 2'. that'll be easy release 'pop'/'snap' down affair.  There's no point in an over complicated bracket to save time in the car park as getting ready to ski for the day is not a 5minute job and a few extra minutes wont' make a difference in the big scheme of things - consider the people that queue to get the first lift and then spend 2 hours for lunch...

 

It could be that solution 1+2 are the same thing OR different and require changing...  so many things to think about. clamps and grips and snap fittings etc. I'll keep you posted and share my final idea.

 

meanwhile, @SweatowMatt, if you've got those measurements or rough engineering drawings (profile, plan, elevation etc.). I'd be super grateful and will send nice (but affordable) gifts to you. I've had word that the machine shop has provisionally given a green light... having your original mould dimensions will be great stimulus for our fabrications.

 

Andy

 

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If it helps I believe the original had a pin holding a clamp. Like this. I posted a picture on here where you can see the metal bracket.IMG_2741.thumb.JPG.f5566da14f07b59a7e5fe436f70d928b.JPGI will probably use this idea with rubber each side of the skis and mounted on the underside of the bracket with a lock and key to retain the pin. The main part will be steel covered in fiberglass. The steel bolted to the tailgate. The bottom will be all steel again covered in fiberglass, bolted through the tailgate and a spreader plate on the other side. 

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Thanks Fabian about comment on other car

Andy its probably best if I post you one of the top and one of the bottom as would be very difficult to do profile measurement's, is a 2-3 week loan enough time, the top one should be identical to the one in the movie, the bottom one has an extra 4 inches of fiberglass on the bottom as it needs trimming at a strange angle you will see what I mean when you receive, wont be able to post till next week, with regards to the bottom mount bracket you may not need them as the skis should hold them in place but that's up to you to decide.

My email is mjsproperties@hotmail.co.uk  

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Thanks to Matt, i'll be experimenting with the original moulds.  Fabian, that's a good spot about the pin mechanism.  Now you've mentioned it, I can see it in a few of the shots of the car on the web.  

My sketches are below.  I think no.1 is close to you thoughts.  I was working out a cam/ratchet design so you turn a handle to tighten down the skis onto the rack and then they'll lock tight.

I think rubber (or the underside of a mouse mat) stuck to the surfaces will protect the ski edges (important) and prevent any unnecessary scratching.

I'm probably going for a 'plate and push down' design.  I'll make the plate nice and wide so it can accommodate a large knob in the centre or two small ones at either end.  A bit like this guy:

keep you posted... and THANK YOU again, Matt. 

rack_clamps.thumb.jpg.ecb134c442512b681aaad5cfb59262b2.jpg

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Thanks Dave.It a very strange colour in that it looks very different under different lighting conditions. One thing that is consistant is that it's not very reflective( a necessity for film work). This is why the new A19 formulation doesn't look like the Bond car, there's far too much metallic. Although I think, like many others, the later formulation looks more modern and better. Not much use though if you are making an exact copy of the Bond car! Thanks to Matt I have been able to get it spot on. I went to a lot of effort to get this correct, but hope it will help anyone who wishes to get the correct colour. Just contact Neil Thompson at Thompson Body Repair and he will be able to supply as much of this colour as you want! 

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It's going to take me a while to progress this project due to work commitments, but I'm not in a rush. Far more important to get it right. I'm still working on the engine. I have repaired the strainer gauze, just need to wire lock it. I then have to check and reset the valve clearances if required. I've been cleaning the engine for a couple of days, it's a very long process to get it up to standard! 

The body should be back on the rebuilt chassis next month! 

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I think it will be enough for everyone to just see the painted body back on the car once it's done Fabian and if it takes a while as you say, to do all the rest, best that way so you get it the way you want it. Just watching the progress with the posted updates is brilliant!:thumbup:

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I think the only way you'll be truly convinced Fabian that it's as good a match as you hope is to take that trip over to see the Dezer collection - flight booked yet?:thumbup: Bet your glad Neil took his time doing the prep.......as a trip to Miami earlier this month wouldn't have been fun with the weather they've had!:huh:

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