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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 145 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - TLF - Totally Lotus Jump to content


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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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I have swapped some of the silicon pipes for rubber. Despite having matched the diameters I'm not convinced sone of the silicon pipes will seal properly because of the manufacturing tolerances of the original pipes. IMG_5884.thumb.JPG.25eab1597b80ef65b4586c1f92a8f1c5.JPG

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They look the same, thanks. The only trouble is Ferrari prices! I now have the Audi boots which are £3.99 each. The trouble is sourcingbthe bolt spacers as the are slightly different in design. I may have found some but am just waiting for conformation. The VW cv joints on the T4 appear to be 108 mm, whereas all the older VW stuff is 100 mm. It's frustrating as the pole of unusable parts is increasing. I will find the solution eventually! 

11 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

Was it a particularly difficult divorce, Fabian?

It's not happened yet, but Ive got a feeling if I mention ski racks that  might be the final Straw! 

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

 The only trouble is Ferrari prices!

Superformance are the SJ Sportscars of the Ferrari world and prices are pretty good generally , for example timing belts : £8

The CV washers at £7.95 are not that brill though have to admit. Must be available somewhere cheaper.

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I have started to think what is the purpose of these washers? Are they to apply equal pressure to the cv boot holder so it can't distort and let grease out? If so the new A3 design boot has reinforcement  built in so the washers would not be required. On some other VW forums they have been fitted without washers. 

Or are they used to help prevent the bolts from moving under vibration, so they don't wear a flat spot and undo? Judging by how difficult they were to remove ai dontbthink this is much of an issue!

With the new boots I have the original washers won't fit because of the reinforcement bulge in the Lip between bolt holes.  . Vw do a shaped washer but so far I can only find one for a 100 mm cv joint. Some T4 transporters use a 108 mm CV joint. The hunt continues. Anyone got a source for these? 

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Defo would not leave them off, they are made from a hard steel and spread the load of the bolt heads which are quite small. The boot holders are just thin mild steel.

Its interesting that on the Esprit with inboard brakes the CV joints are loaded both directions. This is quite unique. Normally the advice on driveshafts is they should always be fitted back on the car the same way they came off to avoid reversing the load but this happens all the time on these cars! Doesnt seem to cause any problem though.

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thanks Andy, that's what I thought. There's a lot of rubbish on the internet!    

Well I think I may have a solution. I will confirm when the parts arrive. Just Kampers sell the T4 boot for the 108 mm CV joint. The T4 has a 100 mm or 108 mm cv joint, so be careful you order the correct one.  They may get the spacers in, but at the moment don't sell them individually. I mention if they did Lotus people might buy them! I believe the spacer is part 1K0407-357D available on eBay or VW directly. It's £13 for six. I have ordered them and will confirm if they fit.

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Engine

Well I have started. The engine has been rebuilt before. The whole bottom end. All I have is receipts and no pictures. As the engine is already out I have decided to take it all to pieces and check all of it and rebuild anything that is required. Many parts are new but I don't know who did it. With a rebuild taking about 42 hrs it's small fry compared with all the other jobs so I have started to strip it. Quite easy as it's all been apart recently! IMG_5903.thumb.JPG.b1510387afcc67079af16bb3e7660746.JPGThere's a lot of dust built up. Everything I can getboff is going in the Ultra sonic cleaner after a parts bath. Shouldn't  take too long to do it all. Plus this job is fun! I want it pristine otherwise I won't be happy.👍🏻👍🏻

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2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Engine

Well I have started. The engine has been rebuilt before. The whole bottom end. All I have is receipts and no pictures. As the engine is already out I have decided to take it all to pieces and check all of it and rebuild anything that is required. Many parts are new but I don't know who did it. With a rebuild taking about 42 hrs it's small fry compared with all the other jobs so I have started to strip it. Quite easy as it's all been apart recently! IMG_5903.thumb.JPG.b1510387afcc67079af16bb3e7660746.JPGThere's a lot of dust built up. Everything I can getboff is going in the Ultra sonic cleaner after a parts bath. Shouldn't  take too long to do it all. Plus this job is fun! I want it pristine otherwise I won't be happy.👍🏻👍🏻

what ultrasonic cleaner do you have? as im looking to buy one. thanks

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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Hi Chris

Its a GT sonic 9 L. This is about the smallest you can sensibly get away with. Used with carburettor cleaning fluid or soap and water. It's really good! Supplied by Mr Bezos, via Amazon.IMG_5922.thumb.PNG.c21c4c33063f512ee787e013688679ee.PNG

With the carbs you can get all the parts from Eurocarb on eBay. They do a Dellorto rebuild kit and sell all of the parts so if screw heads  are damaged they can be replaced.

Graphogen grease forvthe rebuild eBay. 125 ml more than enough for the  job. 

Engine rotation clockwise when viewed from the front belt side of the engine. No 1 piston closest to the pulley wheels.

That and the manual with some specialist tools and you can rebuild the engine. 

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Glad the ultrasonic is getting lots of use Fab. Here's some simple solutions to use with different parts.

3:1 Ratio Pine Sol and water carbs/aluminium parts 30-60 minutes

1:3 Ratio Lemon juice to water for brass 30-45 minutes

1:4 Dawn dish soap to water for steel 45-60 minutes

I have half a dozen 1 pint plastic cups I put the solution in then put them into the water bath in the cleaner. That way you can do different metals at the same time.

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Alternator

my original is perfectly ok but looks tired. Has anyone sourced a replacement on eBay? If so can you please supply a link to save me the time if researching it. Thanks.

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Have check the valve clearances, here they are.IMG_5928.thumb.JPG.87f291ccd1bbab53977a5d4513cb1b59.JPGIMG_5929.thumb.PNG.6cadd9437eea3ccdcdb619552fac8a1e.PNGfrom this we can see three are outside limits. The water pump bearing is making a noise on rotation and the some bolts havn't been replaced. I can conclude the F1 guy who allegedly rebuilt this couldn't have one many races! So it has to be a full rebuild with a tolerance check and replacement of any sub standard parts. There is evidence of a weld repair to the cyclendar head. It's at the front on the corner.. All the valves beneath are clean and it looks like it has been reconditioned. Only way to be sure the repair is  acceptable is to dismantle it all and have a look. It appears the repair  is only on the edge of head casting beneath the cam holder, so it may not cause a problem. It's nearly all in pieces just awaiting magnets for the cam holder removal.

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Fabian, please look again at the numbers as I see your findings to be 5 exhaust and 7 inlet out of spec. Your Turbo should have Spec 9 cams I believe.

Cheers

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2 hours ago, drdoom said:

Fabian, please look again at the numbers as I see your findings to be 5 exhaust and 7 inlet out of spec. Your Turbo should have Spec 9 cams I believe.

Cheers

Thanks for that Steve, you saved me a lot of hassle! I found a separate page for the 910 engine which confirms the inlet and exhaust clearance Cold are the second specs in the list, as below on the Turbo page.IMG_5932.thumb.PNG.ab0d54b52e36a9ece4b77427e51f1032.PNG

Now I have to ask the question why are all of these valves set wrong? A simple mistake or something else? 

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