Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

[Lotusfab]

Thanks Dave.

[Lotusfab]

A laborious day of parts cleaning!

[Lotusfab]

The parts are in great condition, makes a change on a Lotus! Well the worst is now behind brake lines next. I have all the new parts and this time the originals to copy. I quite enjoy making the lines it's relaxing compared with some of the other jobs! 

The tailgate is stripped, just a little more sealant to clean off!

I have ordered some black PVC trunking to replace the PVC on the chassis clips. Not sure what size to use so started with 10mm.

If it helps most nuts in this car are 10 mm, 13 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm! May save you buying lots of unecessary tools. A socket driver with a Universal joint is essential as Lotus designed almost every nut so it's almost impossible to access!

[Lotusfab]

A lot of hard work to be sure. But remember the motto, "Per ardua ad Astra". My latin is a bit rusty- "through toil to the stars".

[Andyww]

4 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

 

If it helps most nuts in this car are 10 mm, 13 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm! May save you buying lots of unecessary tools. A socket driver with a Universal joint is essential as Lotus designed almost every nut so it's almost impossible to access!

The problem is, the odd imperial one they throw in to catch you out!

Also I find most of the screws used are far longer than they need to be. I guess thats to keep down the number of different varieties they had to stock.

[Lotusfab]

Mmmmm, good job Colin Chapman didn't find out. All that weight increase!

[Fridge]

11 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

The parts are in great condition, makes a change on a Lotus! Well the worst is now behind brake lines next. I have all the new parts and this time the originals to copy. I quite enjoy making the lines it's relaxing compared with some of the other jobs! 

The tailgate is stripped, just a little more sealant to clean off!

I have ordered some black PVC trunking to replace the PVC on the chassis clips. Not sure what size to use so started with 10mm.

If it helps most nuts in this car are 10 mm, 13 mm, 17 mm and 19 mm! May save you buying lots of unecessary tools. A socket driver with a Universal joint is essential as Lotus designed almost every nut so it's almost impossible to access!

The PVC trunking I used on the S1 chassis clips was 12mm.

[Lotusfab]

Thanks. Better order some more!

Anyone know the brake pipe clip screw size? I'll end up with a draw ful of these too!

[Andyww]

I used heatshrink sleeving for the chassis clips.

[Lotusfab]

Mmmm. I must admit I was thinking of using that too. 

[Lotusfab]

Finished removing silicon from the body shell today, so ready to take to painters. The chassis is now covered in the sound deadening material. Should get the brake lines sorted tomorrow. Then just waiting for parts to arrive! The chassis won't take long to be rolling again!

[Lotusfab]

Brake lines (boring but essential)

The pipe used seems to be standard 3/16.

I have been using the complicated flaring kit which has lots of parts and comes in a box with a little clamp. This form of flaring is awkward and time consuming. So I have invested in a handheld flaring tool, American style. You have to hand it to the yanks they are streets ahead in some tools! I used to travel there regularly and buy tools!  Makes a perfect flare every time and is 10 times quicker. You don't need hundreds of anvil sizes, just 3/16. 

The connectors are M10, 1 mm thread for 3/16 pipe.

Thats all you need to replace all the lines. Oh an the pipe I'm using is modern Cupronickel. 

If I had known about the handheld tool earlier it would have save hours of work! You can make successful joints with the other type tool it's just tricky, takes too long and produces variable results. The handheld makes a factory style flare each time, enjoy!

The chassis is all silver with silver sound deadening. It starting to resemble a NASA style space vehicle! A few solar panels and it will be ready for orbit!

[910Esprit]

C'mon then, let's have a look at this device!   (I've got one that's just like the one you described.  Requires a couple of operations and requires careful use and preparation)  

[Lotusfab]

[Andyww]

I will buy one of those. I tried a flaring tool from Toolstation and it was so shite I took it back and got a refund. Those get good reviews so its nice to see confirmed.

American tools are the best. Browsing in Sears branches in malls is fun, the Craftsman range is good, but Snap-On you can get here of course and they are top notch.

In the years when I owned my first Esprit it had Aircon when very few cars did back then. There were only a few places, mainly Jag dealers, which were able top the systems up and they charged a fortune. I went into Sears in the USA and bought a set of hoses/gauges and some cans of R12 and brought them back in luggage!

[RichardJGC]

Is there a brake pipe straightener anyone can recommend? They seem to come in all kinds of different designs. What works best?

[Lotusfab]

Mk1 hand? I have a pipe bender tool.

[RichardJGC]

1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

Mk1 hand? I have a pipe bender tool.

Yet to try Mk1 hand with the coiled up pipe I have. I'd like it to be arrow straight along the chassis ?

[Lotusfab]

Straight edge and a lot of effort?

[Lotusfab]

I'm thinking of sending the master cylinder and the clutch slave off to pastparts in Suffolk for resleeving with stainless steel inserts. Futile putting new seals into a 35 year old cylinder. Even with honing the surface it will be corroded and potentially unreliable.  I want this to last with no problems, such as a leaky master cylinder! Can anyone recommend them. I know someone who says they are great?

[Rolls]

Don't need a straightenener. Manually roll it out until its reasonably straight. Then roll it between two pieces of 6'x4'

[RichardJGC]

15 minutes ago, Rolls said:

Don't need a straightenener. Manually roll it out until its reasonably straight. Then roll it between two pieces of 6'x4'

Thanks for the tips. This particular grade of brake pipe from SJ seems tougher than I remember.

[Lotusfab]

It's probably Cupro Nickel like mine instead of just copper. 

Just heading out to the garage, no wife in sight, so time to unbolt a split rim! 

[Fridge]

3 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

I'm thinking of sending the master cylinder and the clutch slave off to pastparts in Suffolk for resleeving with stainless steel inserts. Futile putting new seals into a 35 year old cylinder. Even with honing the surface it will be corroded and potentially unreliable.  I want this to last with no problems, such as a leaky master cylinder! Can anyone recommend them. I know someone who says they are great?

Why not just buy new. Save a lot of potential problems down the line. Cost isn't great. Messing about seems like false economy to me.

I just straightened the brake pipes out. Not difficult. Just don't rush it.

[Lotusfab]

Thought of new which is cheaper, but don't think the barrels are stainless steel so they will rot with time?

It's £130 for a as new stainless rebuild or about £85 for a new one. I found any new part is never as good and there seem to be fitting issues.