Through Chassis Coolant Pipes

[eeyoreish]

So today I decided to investigate the weepy coolant pipes under the nose of the Esprit. As I suspected, the ends of the alloy pipes have corroded and one has a pin hole in it so looks like they'll need to be changed.

On the N/A the pipes are curved at the front end so I assume they can come out from the front with the rad pack removed. Has anyone done this on a Stevens pre S4?

I haven had a proper look at the rad pack yet but do I need to remove the pile cooler pipes to drop the rad pack? The cooler pipes are pretty crusty so don't fancy my chances with those...☹️

Best source for new pipes SJ?

 

[eeyoreish]

Some further investigation and stripping of bits today reveals that all of my alloy coolant pipes need replacing. Every end is well corroded and at least 2 have visible pin holes under where the rubber pipe sits 😡

Looks like from SJ I'm looking at £350 worth of alloy pipes alone, plus a couple of rubber hoses I don't already have.

Has anyone found a better source than SJ or even had new pipes made up cheaper by a specialist? @Chillidoggy didn't you get some stainless pipes made up for yours? Was that a better option or just more expensive?

I'll do a routine check with the dealer but I expect they'll be NLA or more expensive than SJ.

Any tips or sources appreciated!

[Chillidoggy]

Yes, I did look into it.

The small pipes are not so much of a problem to make, they’re straight, and they just need to have a swage on each end. The issue is with the main coolant pipes where they need to be relieved to clear the master gear change. That’s the tricky bit, and I ended up biting the SJ bullet. I don’t think they’re entirely straight either, but can’t remember.

I didn’t bother with stainless as it’s more expensive, heavier, and as the originals have lasted nearly 25 years, assuming they new ones last the same length of time, the chances are that at the age of 85, I’ll have shuffled off this mortal coil, so won’t be remotely concerned about them.

Tip - The main pipe grommets are bastards to fit at the front end of the chassis, it’s sloped, and I had to manufacture some two-piece jobs to fit.

Oh, and try to insulate the main pipes with some thin rubber jointing where the jubilee clips go, that will stop the dissimilar metal corrosion. Use stainless clips for everything. 

There might be some info on my refurb thread, too.

[eeyoreish]

Thanks Ian. I haven't got the main chassis pipes out yet because I need more hands to help drop the rad pack out of the way so they can be drawn out forwards.

I was looking at the grommets at the rear and it doesn't look like the flared end would fit through them? At this stage I'm mainly worried about losing the grommet into the central chassis box as the pipe goes through 😮 I did prise at the grommet a bit but it didn't want to come out with the pipe there. Any tips?

Also am I right in thinking it's possible to do this working from both ends and there's no need to be accessing anything through the gear shifter aperture?

[Chillidoggy]

You will need to get the gearchange master out. You don’t have to disconnect it, and can get your arm in there to guide pipes through and fit the bits of Lotus rubber hose in between the smalle pipes. You may have to fit the grommets after the pipes go in on the main pipes, and lubricate the smaller ones.

[eeyoreish]

Thanks Ian. I'm only changing the 2 larger pipes. 

I'll look back at your resto thread and see what photos are there

Edited June 10, 2018 by eeyoreish

[Chillidoggy]

Check to make sure the main pipes will come out of the chassis forwards first, as I have a sneaking suspicion that they may not clear the body and chassis going that way. There's very little room to move them in any other direction other than axially. That's certainly the case with the S4s, but I don't know if the earlier chassis are different.

[eeyoreish]

On the X180 the chassis pipes are a hockey stick shape with the curved end at the front so logically they can only go forwards. I'm hoping with the rad pack out of the way I might be in business but worst case the bumper may need to come off too. I'll only really know when I try to draw them out.

[Chillidoggy]

1 hour ago, eeyoreish said:

On the X180 the chassis pipes are a hockey stick shape with the curved end at the front so logically they can only go forwards. I'm hoping with the rad pack out of the way I might be in business but worst case the bumper may need to come off too. I'll only really know when I try to draw them out.

Good!

[Glyn Harper]

Of course if you’re fitting new ones you can chop the old ones out as you go in sections.. but that won’t work putting new ones back in.

[cbclotus]

Hi .Might be wrong but I think the larger coolant pipes will come out from the front if the rad is out .And the front spoiler removed ....Good luck ....Mike 

[eeyoreish]

That's what I'm hoping. Looks like it should be possible. Just got to wait 2 weeks for SJ to get the parts sorted...

[cbclotus]

Hi Neil .Replaced mine on a g car .just bought .38 mm stainless tube from e bay .Mate then beaded the ends .stil feel the pain now .lol. My car had been modified with later renauld box. V8 rover engine .Good luck ....Mike

[silverfrost]

Pre 85 Esprit has no bottom brace on the chassis front frame that on the later cars the part of the bottom front suspension arm is attached to.  

This is where the bugger will be awkward to pull past imo