Shanesprit

the forum help here is so good I am regretting selling my Esprit, and buying a VW Splitscreen, the forums for that are quite poor. I miss driving the Esprit as well, I will buy another light project when I find one.

Your a lucky boy I have only ever seen this once before, on a diesel Citroen. Crank was damaged well.

Thanks for the help All back on the road now. Had an oil leak maybe 2. So rear main, sump gasket, and gearbox split and seals replaced Just the a check over and top up the gear oil left

Oh yes I bet you don't have a really distributor? I don't know the different models very well, but I do know about cars and engines. If it's only driving a pump then it does not need a mark. I have a carb model I long for fuel injection and modern ignition. Mine is spread all over the shed awaiting parts delivery. Using the starter to undue the crank nut has been done many times.

Sorry but Your mark on the auxiliary cam is useless as the flywheel is not at TDC. You will have to follow the manual to align it all up, but don't worry.

Hi Normally you would choose to place the fly wheel at Its timing mark and then check the cam sprockets, more likely that the cam is not as aligned as you think. Any way it's not a big concern, I have seen many engines running a tooth out. However don't put it back like this, put all points at the correct timing marks, the distributor is the hardest to keep in line while getting the belt back on, and if the distributor pulley is out can always turn the distributor to correct it. Just follow these very simple rules always turn slowly Never use force to turn A minimum of 2 turns of the engine by hand before starting Check the belt tension. If you do this even if it won't run at least you won't damage anything.

Thanks Think I can manage that, using a heat sink to stop the heat traveling up the pipe. Just wish I had pulled my finger out and started this 2 days ago, instead of waiting for the rest of my gearbox parts to arrive from SJ

I was hoping to get advice on just separating the strainer from the pipe? Like heat or tapping and twisting? I want to do this with out removing the pickup if possible. Strainer has fallen apart

Any one know the best way of removing the oil strainer? And what's best to stick the new one on with? Thanks

i am steadily replacing all my connections with Deutsch connectors where possible, there is an expensive crimp tool needed, but i am sure its possible to solder the ends if you dont have it. i know its not original but its quality and robust.

hi well should i use 40N on an 89 2.2na? i will be changing the crank rear main seal and gasket just to be sure also intend to fit a 40 way Deutsch connector between the boot floor electrics and engine compartment to make removal easier next time,

I think you spotted me Driving gently due to an oil leak during the chatsworth run. Hopefully I will be back on the road next week or this weekend if all goes very well

Definitely check the differential preload. - can i do this with the shaft's still in place? and do i really need to by a spring balance?

I am sure you are right. Just looking at a PDF service notes Looks like I could end up doing a rebuild to cure a weep of oil, I haven't rebuilt a box for a long time, and never this type.

It should be all ok plenty of oil still in there. Just not sure why I have to split the box? Looks like just remove the bell housing, I will ask at lotusbits when I collect the parts.