alzmoore

Rambo Yes. Strangely when I shorted the link to fans came on...? I think I best try Freescan. Cable on the way Thanks

Bibs, Yes and you are right, there is no code 11 but it's flashing 11.....!!

Hello, Shorted A to B and after code 12 three times, it then flashed 11.....There doesn't seem to be a code 11 (or 20) or anything less than 13 in the manual. Does this make any sense to anyone? Thanks Alan

Many thanks. Pulled fan motor out and very dry and stiff and one of the blades has picked up a small metal clip from somewhere... Hopefully that's it sorted.

Hello, all running well on my1989 turbo SE until on a nice run today heater fans stopped working (the heater gives out no heat anyway due to stuck heater valve that is on the to do list) and engine warning light came on. Left it to cool for a while then started to loop out the acdl socket. For no particular reason, I turned the heater fan switch off and the cooling fans came on. If I turn the heater fan switch on, the cooling fans go off. (ignition on only, engine not running). Does this make any sense to anyone.. The fault code is 26. Many thanks Alan

Thanks..That make sense. Jump wire from front to back seems to have solved it now....

Thanks all. Checked with freescan and ecu is seeing the temperature and it matches the gauge closely. If I've got it right the ecu outputs 12v to the relay until the temp reaches 92C and then it earths which energies the coil relay??? Does that sound right? It appears that there is no voltage arriving at the rear relay from fuse 13 at the front of the car so it looks like another broken connection from front to back....

hello, Just failed MoT because the car boiled up on the lift and so could not be emission tested.......the tester thinks that the fans didn't come on. (Strange that I could idle it forever and it never overheated but hey.....) The first fault I found was that a voltage from the rear relay wasn't arriving at the front relay which was due to the little spade terminal in the front relay holder being pushed back so not making contact. That got me to the point that if i send 12v from the back of the car to the front relay via the connecting wire the fans came on........however, I now find that I don't appear to be getting any input to the rear relay from the ecu so the fans aren't triggered. This is the case even when the indicated temp on the dashboard is about 100C. The sensor in the inlet manifold must be working, firstly because it's new and secondly because I have no fault codes and if it wasn't working it would affect other system and trigger fault codes. So I'm baffled again. Does anyone know at what temp the fans should cut in at? I understand that the thermostat opens at something like 82C but surely the fans should trip in by 100C???

Thanks Andy. As soon as the skin grows back on my knuckles I will try and get it out..

Andy. No they don't. The pipe from the back of the head gets hot for as far down as I can reach

Hello, I've tried the following: Backflushed the heater core (from the outlet at the rear of the cylinder head all the way through to the connection back at the water pump. No dirt and full flow at mains pressure. Flushed both ways Tested the movement of the heater valve. It moves through 90 degrees from hot to cold (but I cant see the stop referred to in the manual) cracked the hose at the highest point on entry to the heater control valve to bleed out any trapped air (this resulted in a little bit of warmth, but it didn't last long) There is some kind of thermostatic control thing on the water valve. Could it be something to do with that...…………...i hope not as I've got no skin left on both wrists trying to reach the water valve. I'll cry if I have to change it...(or buy a warm coat) Thanks Alan

I am ready to reassemble my 89 turbo esprit SE gearbox and wanted to check the diff preload. I only stripped the box to replace the primary shaft seal so didn't remove primary and secondary shafts. The manual has a procedure for diff checking but it looks like it's done with these shafts removed. Is there another way that avoids me removing the shafts? Alan

I have finally got round to checking valve clearances and have the following measurements (in old money..thou) Inlet (5,3) (4,7) (3,3) (3,3) Manual states 5-7 Ex. (5,7) (9,7) (8,8) (6,5) manual states 10-12 So these are well out of spec, but all smaller... What I can't understand is why as things wear, the gaps have got smaller, or could they have been wrong from the start? Sorry if its a stupid question but I wanted to get it straight in my head before I start taking the cams off. Thanks Alan

Yes it's gearbox oil... You are right it has a particular smell....

Filip, thanks for the encouragement.... I guess I better just bite the bullet...