Kristof Thys

It indeed is a bit of a pain, but really the rubber part needs to slide off. Will take some persuasion.

When you say "downpipe", you mean the Y-pipe after the OEM headers, leading into the S-pipe, which in this picture has a cat incorporated? Now this is already an aftermarket Y-pipe in this pic; yours will have 2 flanges with 2 bolts, one for each manifold. However, I don't recall it being difficult at all to access as the flangs are +- located where on this picture you see both clamps going to the manifolds? (in fact they will sit a bit closer to the engine block exhaust side, but should be easily accessible) With what are you replacing the OEM Y-pipe? 380 Y-pipe? If so, would strongly advise the replace the gaskets too. (now come to think, I don't recall if gaskets are used... Best check deroure)

? You need to remove in any case the engine undertray (so THE undertray)... But if you have access to all the bolts, for sure you have already remove that one. It's just loosing the nuts and removing the pipework. Like I said, for the bolts on the inside of a bend, I use S-shape spanners. Everything else are basic tools. Good luck, it should all be fairly easy.

It is dead easy. Remove undertrays & diffuser and clear sailing. You might need an S-shape spanner for the inside nut to the S-pipe.

Hi Rob, they break 🙂 See here:

@alias23 It is not the best when I got it. I had it refilled (have the GRP one) as quite some weaviness and because I wanted it to be in gloss black (the first ones were all matt black with a red stripe), it had to be spot on. Fitment is good, albeit it sits a bit higher on the front (headlight side). Then again, the Eltech one is made from the original part (as my friend provided an original Lotus bonnet to Matteo) and also this one is not 100% spot on (it is a bit narrow at the windshield side). Would say both are 90% on fitment out of the box. With some tweaking you can get (close) to 100%. I am 100% satisfied now with my WinAce one.

That is awesome! Must get me one too! 🙂 Thanks for sharing @Team Lotus

@WayneG Thanks for the update. And a good thing it was the obvious thing (the solenoid) being defective. 👍 Comes to show that "the specialists" not necessarily are attacking such issues the logical way. And that the "non specialist" idiots (like myself 😉) go by elimination. To start with the replaced part, like you would too. Good!

@Jcx like you mentioned, some feedback from @WayneG would be nice... let's hope the lack thereof is that he is onto Spain with his fully operational car 😉.

@Seriouslylotus Dave is absolutely right, sorry I wasn't clear in my explanantion. You need to reclock the actuator arm: loosen the 13mm nut that connects the arm on the motor (no need to take off) and loosen the arm from the motor spline. Then rotate the wiper and tighten. Sry

@Woots not as far as I know?

@lwalling It's BOSCH 0 258 006 127 International EAN: 3165142838984 Available everywhere 🙂

You really should chat with Nicolas (geartox) on here like @Hangar 111 Dave suggested. He also has an EXTENSIVELY modified IPS car. His IPS EX460 was measures by KT @437 bhp and 469NM. But I do think the TCU throttles back more when temperature rises (not sure, Nicolas will now). See here:

As the wiper motor uses a park cam, you need to physically reclock the wiper arm to 12 o clock position. Because of this non-electronic "land mechanism", it happens that the wiper doesn't stop dead center, so few mm's off, which will show. Anyway, reclock the actuator arm with 13mm spanner and reset to 12 position on the motor spline. You might need to remove the fuse box and the wiper mechanism cover. Good luck, plz show us the final result.

@GoldenGun the cat is easy. Just get a quality one eg. from HJS or Jim as he also uses HJS iirc. You can get the S-bend with cat pre made (also from Jim). Alternative Larini or others, have no experience with them. No remap needed. I also run a CAI. FYI: Dixie runs NO cats, cai, headers etc. Also here no remap needed, contrary to what you read sometimes on Lotus forums 😈

@GoldenGun based in Belgium, all the installation done by yours truly (with moral support from DixieV6 who is the pioneer in the Lotus world in modifying Exige V6's since early 2013). Back box is built by a friend who sadly passed away. Sportcat was built by Europipe (as a favour, they only do Porsches... And are the best in the business!) Valve override is a simple +12v extra wire, switchable from the cabin. I can choose between 'normal operation' or override always open/always closed. No issue on back pressure as with the OEM boxes (and especially the 380 and onwards back boxes due to the very very small bypass pipe) because all is built in 63.5mm tubing. Added bonus: OEM look and no issue with (Belgian) MOT.

@GoldenGun I have Larini headers, Europipe sportcat and completely modified OEM valved back box (valve open= straight pipes, valve closed = absorption track). All in 63.5mm piping. I can control my valve independently from rpms so valve closed is "quiet" all over the rpm range. Valve open is... well...inferno 😁👌

Mechanism causing too much friction causing the motor to draw too much current hence blowing the fuse? Can you lube the mechanism?

I was talking from a technical perspective... ideally YES you also need the 380 downpipe. It's 60mm diameter on both pipes compared to 51mm on your 350 system. So yes, Schitnzel is 100% correct, it will work with the 350 downpipe... but the 380 downpipe will yield (very) slight performance gains. However, the 380 back box (and indeed the same for the 4xx versions) is a pretty bizar design. At 76mm diameter not the best in terms of performance on the <380 engines with valve open and 48mm on the by-pass with valve closed. But again, just my .02 I do admit it sounds good (but too silent for me 😉 hence I went the custom route)

The OEM ceramic (600 cpi) cats are the weak link and on track duty they probably will break up. No need to worry, good aftermarket headers and sport cat WILL NOT require a retune (other than the one that comes with the kit) and you'll benefit for a freer breathing engine, no exploding cats and for sure a lot less heat in the engine bay. Easy decision IMO 😉😉

@Jcx I'm in Sales... So not really my day-to-day stuff. But I do like tinkering 😉 @WayneG aha, solenoid being faulty is a good thing! (you tested it with 12v on the terminals out the car?)

doable; you need to step up the piping diameter however. Either on the S-bend towards to back box or by also installing the 380 down/Y-pipe.

Just my .02: get the TVS1900 for obvious reasons, ditch the OEM manifolds and get a sport cat. Price will be equal to EX460, but with more potential and less stress on the SC. Best of both worlds.

Auto electric guy will be able to sort this out with the above schematic. Without it, it is just guessing.

Ok, thanks for this clear answer. Fuse R7 is OK. IF that Pierburg solenoid (the molten one) is still functional (12v on the terminals will show that) then the resistance is not picked up by the ECU and cabling must be bad (molten?) going into pin CB4 of the ECU. long shot: IF that Pierburg solenoid is no longer functional, albeit very unlikely, the new solenoid doesn't create enough resistance to be picked up by the ECU. A 2Ohm - 5Watt resistor over the terminal can rule that out. Below schematics shows where to diagnose off connector 3 / fuse R7 terminal to ECU pin CB4. Simple test: Run a testlamp over the connector of the solenoid and rev over 4000 RPM to see it gets triggered. Will be a simple fix, just needs some fiddling.