bullit

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Glyn, when put new rings (they are round ) in new cilinders ( also round) no problem, but when put on the cilinder head , the cilinders wil deformate a bit .(they are not round anymore) now the round (new) rings must runing in into the cilinder wals , (and also the wals formate to the rings (visa versa) the result is a perfect match between the rings and the cilinder wal , the case is running in wel, hopeful it is oil consumtion free. and take a lot off miles google the "abbott curve" also the ruf pixels are disapeard from the rings , and from the liners -------now you dismantle the cilinder head, maintenance, and put the old stuf again into the used cilinders. put the cil.head back on, and suprice the cilinder deform again , but just a bit else than before, the ring are smooth surfaced, the liners are smooth surfaced, and the rings wil never run in, they wil not fill the unroundnes of the liners , and result in oil consumption . if you have luck , it 's ok. ( do you take the gamble?) ( it is for me dificult to write down the hole case, i am not english ) in the past, the mini (blmc) have a lot of problems when skim the head and put it back on, even when the pistons are not removed, today the opel (vauxhall) have the problem a lot. sietse

any tekst printed on the rings are at top side

hi steve, don't worry , be happy, if the pin is soaked in oil , and you could not feel play it is ok new it must move under a low thumb pressure see part of my movie on youtube when renew the bearing it must be honing or cutting to the right size, not reaming , only with special equipment. sietse // holland

not so important Travis.. the rings are moving al the time around...while engine running but for (between the ears ) I agree normally Glen, you renew used rings , the rings are bed-in ( running in) into the cylinders, and so are the cylinders ( a bit ) so if you use used rings in used cylinders , you get oil consumption , they never running in again and if you use new rings, let the cylinders honing again, ( not the normal way, because they are nikasil they must "lapping" the cylinders ) if it is alusil the honing work is different, then with nikasil) use cast iron rings, the running in time is short, as Travis mentioned the rings lotus used, are cast iron (they broke) if there is no other way than use old rings, use R.I.C. (running in compound) from BP, to let them running in. greetings sietse // holland

hi, i put a gt28 twin ballbearing turbo on my 90se, produced my own translation between exhaust and turbo (see picture) not the quick spoolup is the big case, but you have the full presure even at high revs. i use a normal cheep wastegate controler ( 20$) and get 1.2bar al the time , blow-off valve on the intake pleanum . and its working awesome.

hi, i mounted hispec, (brembo disc's ) cheep , and easyfit.. work wel , but suprise... after a check about te pads they use....volvo amazone......

what a long story.... first, the most hobbyist do not have the equipment to measure the guides, (only measure with two point bore gauge, and not with 3-point) second , I suppose there is no hobbyist that can place k-line guides, you need special equipment and a hand full off k-line guides......(besides i think +/- 7.13 mm is not common k-line size) be handsome, take the head to a engine overhaul centre, they have the experience, and the stuff to repair the head in no-time, while you have a lot work to lap or grind the valves and still it is not perfect sietse // holland

bolt overkill, use locktite or nordlock rings sk

on my 90SE latterly what is the (crank) case I've cleaned up the engine , inside and outside, the engine is empty, re-joined the crankcase halves, and measured.... the main bearing OD bore diameter, normally it must be 67.704 to 67.715 I measured up/down lets say 67.74 to 67.75,mm that is no problem, new bearings , 010 undersize, and we can calculate the crankshaft grinding size but measured left/right I've got 67.78 and 67.60 mm well the oversize 67.80 is no problem , side play left/right is normally more than std and that is regulated by the bearing ( the bearing hole must be equal round) but it is no problem when it is a bit out off the diameter.(left/right) I am a lot more concerned about the 67.60mm, that is more than the bearing oil clearance even when i remove the locating dowels, and put steel rings (67.70mm) into the main bearings holes,(both ends) still I have got more than 0.06 mm out off roundness main bearing holes... to much i think is that becomes after 250.000 km of good use? well I suppose I have to skim the lower bearing case, and line honing the hole crankcase..... wow what a tech talk........ greetings sietse // holland ( not mentioned my langauge)

hi, i changed the front to toyo proxes t1 205-55-15 and rear to toyo proxes cf1 225-55-16 smaller tire makes the car extreme better handling on the dutch roads more grip (other materials) and mutch more better handling when you use heavy brake and the wear is lower i think and last but not least , the price is a lot lower then the original tires (sorry for the language mistakes) .gr sietse

hi, looks to me, a he... of a job to take off the w-pump while the engine is in the bay.. but doing nice , normaly you push the shaft out of the impellor.. i did not know if lotus manage the job in the opposit way..be shure, don't do it with other type pumps.. you did a good job alan. nice work

hi, 200 k miles ago i changed the support bearing of the selector schaft put stainless steel on the schaft, and an bigger support bearing, more material = more stability i think working outstanding . greetings sietse // holland

for usa V8 (chevy, ford) it is a exchange item, remove the old pump, and bolt on the electric one..so far so good, what is the problem to get those pumps, bolt it on a "fake"engine plate, and put it somewere in de hose...(if there is place) sk

wat ? ... i replaced mine with a gt28 ball bearing turbo, and used an classic boost regulator (hand regulated) price 30 dollar. working outstanding no problems at all , full power always some pictures of this project in the treat of http://www.lotusforum.be/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5873 vr gr sietse // holland

is there no solution to replace or sealed of the housing, and use an electric pump instead ?, like the v8 usa engine use to do... than you could manage the streaming by microprosessor ? i prob. go for that solution in the future if there are problems with the water pump.... vr gr sietse

hi, i replaced the shaft with a home made one, and replaced the bearing with four normal ball bearings.. it is working more than 100 k miles now. (the seal is still ok, so i did not replaced that)

hi, i replaced the studs from the exhaust manifold to the turbo now i can remove the turbo within 20 minutes greetings sietse / holland