FSzalay

Is the window regulator part of the latch component or is it a separate part? My understanding was that it was all in one piece and the latch component cannot be taken apart (without destroying it)

My car has developed the same problem on the driver side. Plus the window in the same door started to move up and down randomly. I saw a couple of prior threads about a past recall and replacing the door latch mechanism. Since my car is way past warranty.... Did anyone do a DIY upgrade from the original S1 mechanism (with sill button) to the newer design without sill button? Beside checking the fuses, is there any other things worth to check before going for the replacement?

The part under the door, and the panel between the door and the rear wheels is also subject to damage. I would recommend to cover that area for sure

What I meant was that there was an additional cable coming in from the main wire harness, which was not coming from the ICE loom connector (not from the white connector that is marked with an R on the pic) but was tied to the loom with the black plastic shrink (?) tube that is also visible on the pic. So even if I unplug the white connector, I cannot take the ICE loom out from the dash completely. Anyway, I'll make a pic on the weekend or just cut off the black plastic tube and see where that additional wire goes

How did you remove the complete stock Alpine harness from the car? I could unplug the connector but there is another black cable coming from the left (from the wiring loom behind the dash) that goes into the cable wrap... just wanted to ask before I cut off the cable wrap that held the stock loom together. I connected all the Sony cables to the stock but I don‘t want to use the heat gun (for the shrink tubes) next to the dash leather

I wish I saw your pin out chart earlier..... I just changed my original Alpine 505 for the Sony xav-ax100 and spent significant amount of time pairing the two harnesses.... obviously they had different color coding... at least I got a confirmation that I got the mapping right :-)

Both the dampers and the calipers I've ordered turned up within a couple of days.... Actually, they sent two sets of calipers by accident .....but they arrived fast!

Thanks for the service docs! It's a shame that I bought the calipers at the higher price, but I'm still looking forward to have the painted ones on instead of the old unpainted ones. The dampers are a bargain. A complete set is on the way.... Just as some of the fellow Evora owners, I'm also building a second car piece by piece.... I hope my wife doesn't figure it out before it is complete....

Doesn't look right. As far as I remember it should point downwards. There are pics on the web of cars with the rear clam off. Just google Evora engine...

Hi, could you pm or post here the link where you downloaded the service notes from? I bought a set of black calipers to replace the mon-painted ones.

Thanks! Added to the before the season start to do list ... Just to explain why I was thinking about the cable change... The first picture is from my car, with the cable housing/sheath cracked and broken near the ends. The second picture is what I'm afraid of.... (picture taken by someone else)

The gearshift got a bit sticky. Especially if the car sit in the garage for a while. The biggest improvement I would like to have is a faster / smoother from 3rd to 2nd change. It would make the mountain road driving more fun... The gearbox oil change was on the list for the next service anyway but I read mixed feedback about it.... So I was thinking about going all the way and getting the cable change done... Maybe it make sense to first check the difference the oil change made and then decide about the cable upgrade The other thing is more of a concern then an immediate issue (fingers crossed), what if the cable breaks... the plastic cover is well of the metal inner cable. Did you lift the car to lubricate the inner cable? (I have only a ramp)

Is it a clam off job or can be done without it?

As far as I remember the part that has to be pressed was on the top. I had to use a very thin / small screwdriver to press it (like the ones that are used to tighten the screws for glasses).