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mik

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  • Name
    mik
  • Car
    2014 Evora S SportsRacer, 2020 Audi E-Tron 55 Launch Edition
  • Location
    Glasgow

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  1. Not easy to tell from your images. The glass is gripped into the riser mechanism with two clamps - one fore one aft. Black rubber pads (for obvious reasons), with clamp bolts/nuts. I don't think that's what I see in your images (but I am not sure). You can see the black rubber clamp sections on this image from @EuropaSman (the nuts & bolts aren't in place in this pic). If the bolts aren't done up tightly enough, you can move the glass forwards and backwards. Another potential culprit could be the rail adjusting screw, which varies the angle of the forward/rearward guide rail. This has the effect of dictating how forcefully the glass pushes into rubber seal at the top of the door aperture when the door is closed, in order to create a seal. Part no.6 on the deroure page that @21gg posted the link for. If you adjust these without knowing what you are doing - they can fall out and end up rattling around at the bottom of your door. Ask me how I know. If they fall out then sitting in the drivers seat you can press gently and make the top of the glass move away from the seal. They are easy enough to re-fit, but you need to turn them in the right direction - one end is standard thread, the other a reverse thread (so that when you turn it one way the gap between the adjuster blocks grows, and turning it the other way the gap closes).
  2. Have been invited to the house of a mate this evening to watch the SCO/GER game. I have less than zero interest in kickball, but I haven't seen the guys for a while so I'm there for the beers & banter only. I'm relying on them to guide me on which one is the ref vs the keeper etc....
  3. Any idea if the lower front wishbones have been replaced? I had to get both of mine done last year as the balljoints had failed and were allowing some vertical "jiggle". They aren't cheap unfortunately.
  4. Gotcha. And to clarify - my original post was intended to refer to a stonking rather than stinking mid-range 😬. Lovely phone autocorrect..... 😆
  5. @E18VRA just food for thought : I went the other way and kept the OEM back box but added 2bular headers and sports cat. It’s deep in tone and a little louder, but more importantly (for me) the character of the power delivery has changed. It still has a stinking mid-range, but as you might expect it breathes more easily at higher RPM so now pulls hard to the 7.2krpm redline rather than the power feeling like it’s starting to tail off. Definitely a few more horses being released at the top end too.
  6. Car sounds like @MatB but the plate doesn’t match
  7. And if you are in there anyway - I’d strongly recommend fitting some Osram Xenarc Laser bulbs. (No other owners seem very excited about this, but more light = better in my book)
  8. I was going to direct you to my thread on uprated xenon bulbs, but I can’t see the images in it? 😐 Click Access to the adjustment screws is via a round panel in the front wheel arch. 3 thumbscrews. This image shows the rubber cover protecting the bulb removed, but you don’t need to take that off if you are adjusting aim only - you will see 2 white nylon screws. The upper one at each side adjusts vertical aim. The lower one at each side does horizontal. caution - they only need small movements!
  9. Lengthy post warning. Mrs mik has run a launch-edition E-Tron 55 for 3.5 years. She was really keen to get an EV, so we got an EV. Generally it’s a superb thing, with tech that all works and integrates well. It’s fast and extremely quiet, rides very well (air sus) but it’s not particularly efficient, and doesn’t therefore have a great range. Charging at home for normal daily use is awesome. Charging on the public network for longer journeys is pretty dismal. No revelations there. It’s now 3.5yrs old with just over 30k miles on the clock. I took it for a “larger car task” last month. 25 miles from home on an A-Road the car suddenly sang out some loud warning chimes whilst flashing up “Electrical System Fault – Safely stop vehicle!” followed immediately by a 4WD system fault message, and then a warning related to the drive system, with “Limited Performance Available”. Audi’s definition of “limited performance” actually translated to no performance whatsoever, so I was lucky to be able to pull up safely at the entrance to a rural driveway. Once stopped I decided “actually I’ll shuffle it forward 2m to give the house owner more space to get in and out”. Nope. Zero drive. A quick look underneath - fluid was leaking out towards the front of the car – not a very pleasant smelling one. Called the AA and asked that they just send a flat-bed. Zero drive. 2.6 tonne car. Fluid leaking – it’s not going to be possible to do a roadside repair. Computer said no, so I waited 3hrs for a patrol to arrive, who looked at it, sniffed it, and said “I’m not even going to touch it mate”. 🙄 Another 75mins for a sub-contracted flat bed to recover the car to their holding yard for delivery to the dealership on Monday morning, and mrs mik came to pick me up. In the Evora. A car she has driven for a total of approximately 1.5 miles, when I got it 8 years ago.…erk. 😐 Luckily she, the Evora, all of it's gearbox ratios, and all originally fitted pistons & valves arrived unscathed. Phew. 🙂 E-Tron is 4wd of course and has motors both front & rear. Audi took a look and confirmed that the front motor had lost all coolant. Unfortunately that doesn't require a seal and refill, it renders it junk. Yes the entire motor unit. 😬 A new replacement motor is <tap tap tap> £6.2k fitted. Thankfully I had previously opted to extend the 3yr manufacturer warranty (full cover for a very reasonable price), so this was a warranty job with courtesy hire car. Like really thankfully. Some people might suggest however that this doesn’t appear to be a particularly good advert for EV’s. I might agree with them. A quick web search suggests that – whilst its a long way from being a “common” occurrence - we aren’t the first E-Tron owners to suffer this issue. It also appears to be an ongoing low-level problem for Tesla and presumably all other manufacturers who use fluid-cooled drive motors. Which triggered me to go and learn a little more. I'm still scratching the surface as opposed to diving deep, but I understand that in order to maximise (particularly continuous) output, manufacturers are deploying motor cooling circuits that go around the stator (sounds absolutely fine, and that was what I expected), past the electronic controls (erm - probably ok, but wasn’t aware of that) and through centre of the rotor itself (blimey – definitely wasn’t aware of that). The first two seem straight forward in terms of keeping coolant appropriately isolated - in a similar way to the water jacket around an IC engine. The latter however appears to require “mechanical seals” that run on the main shaft of the motor. I know a bloke who works on ship engines (amongst other massive power units) who assures me that these types of seal are common, and generally extremely reliable, but I suspect that they might have a harder time in EV’s in terms of rapid heat cycles and speed changes (?) Below is an Audi motor graphic (front & rear E-Tron), but I believe Tesla (and others) are similar. So the point of my post? EV’s are still pretty new tech, so we remain on the lower slopes of understanding in terms of longer-term running issues. I think most folks are pretty aware of battery longevity concerns, but I have to admit I assumed the motors would last the life of the car (in as much as the vast majority of IC engines last the life of the car). Full motor swaps are clearly (potentially ruinously) expensive and quite some way from eco-friendly. The push towards EV is going to require development/creation of new skills/businesses to perform preventative maintenance (such as motor coolant seal replacement), or refurbishment of failed units that the manufacturers aren’t interested in getting into (you might suggest it’s not in their interest to get into that type of activity). Tens of decades of IC engines means we have specialist places that can strip & refurb IC engines, gearboxes, diffs, but it's not yet there for EVs, and if that doesn't change we may be looking at a lot of EVs deemed uneconomical to repair at a fairly young age. I’ll be extending the warranty on the E-Tron again this year, but at some point Audi won’t offer that any more.... 😶
  10. All zero / ultra-low mileage sports cars destroy me. Car crime. 🙁
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