mik

You can fit the “fan” nozzle from a focus instead, but if you imagine that producing an arc pattern - the top of the arc hits the edge of the hatch we are discussing rather than making it onto the screen, so it’s not perfect. i took mine off again and refitted the OEM nozzles, added in a y-pipe and put another 4-nozzle spray head on my wiper arm. Works well, and is pretty much invisible unless you are specifically looking for it. Like this kinda thing, but mine is a little different (had it on about 7 years now) (edit - I still have my fan nozzle If you want to try it out? I won’t be refitting it)

It could be a number of things, but if you want to try a MAF sensor - I have one that I swapped out of my car a couple of years ago when I was chasing an issue. New one made no difference, so the original was clearly working fine - I just left the new one in though. Very easy to swap over (2 small screws and the electrical plug). I'm west of Glasgow, but could also post it to you to try if you want? Not looking for any money for it.

FWIW - I can do more with my OBD2 WiFi dongle and the “car scanner” app than I could with a plug in code reader. Possibly worth a call to Craig Moncrieff in the morning - if this is a known fault (I haven’t heard folks talking about this issue before) than I expect he’s aware of it.

Do you have a code reader Keith? Any faults thrown?

I was at Anglesey last Monday (first time on track with the Evora) and took my DeWalt tyre inflator with me. Much faster than a 12V plug-in job, and uses the batteries you already have for your tools. Almost everyone in the group I was with (10 cars) ended up using it at some point during the day. Great piece of kit. Other tool manufacturers make similar. Library image

That’s awful to read - sincere condolences. Wishing you and your family strength. 😔

Sparco previously offered a huge range of “fashion” driving shoes, but they seem to have reduced this significantly 🫤 Always worth checking out Okitsuka Tigers too. I got a pair of EDR78 recently and they are superb - slim design with good heel-pad.

2ubular back box gives a lot more volume than OEM, and possibly a smidge more power (?) 2bular headers give a notable volume increase (but less than back box) and definitely bump the power up - particularly at the top end as you would expect.

Just had discs & pads replaced by Craig, as he was able to source parts I couldn’t. Be aware folks that cross-drilled front Discs are like hens teeth at the moment. Leave yourself adequate time if you will need some soon, and be ready for the possibility you may need to either revert to vented but non cross-drilled discs, or to upgrade to alloy bells & floating discs. 🫤

Nice. Best Evora colour too 😉

I guess 22-Sep-24 at 17:00 for reasons….

Decent video of series 1 door card removal here - including all the sneakily hidden fixings 😎 Once you've done it once, it's a very quick job to repeat. This vid also shows how the cables connect to the door handle. Possible the circlip wasn't properly seated on the cable end (?) (Not sure what's going on with the sound - lots of clicks and pops - bit annoying. Edit: that might actually be my computer speaker acting up... ignore) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LenwL8pRXl4

@Cdm2018 Yeah I'm going to give Craig Moncrieff a call in the coming week. I have the space/tools/knowledge to do this kinda thing myself though, so it always seems a bit of a shame not to DIY.....

Easier to tag onto this than start a new thread..... Anyone have a source for OEM (or decent quality non-OEM) front discs (cross drilled) and DS2500 pads for a series 1 EvoraS? Lots of places showing out-of-stock at the moment on the discs (although some have vented non-crossdrilled).... Thanks in advance!

Not easy to tell from your images. The glass is gripped into the riser mechanism with two clamps - one fore one aft. Black rubber pads (for obvious reasons), with clamp bolts/nuts. I don't think that's what I see in your images (but I am not sure). You can see the black rubber clamp sections on this image from @EuropaSman (the nuts & bolts aren't in place in this pic). If the bolts aren't done up tightly enough, you can move the glass forwards and backwards. Another potential culprit could be the rail adjusting screw, which varies the angle of the forward/rearward guide rail. This has the effect of dictating how forcefully the glass pushes into rubber seal at the top of the door aperture when the door is closed, in order to create a seal. Part no.6 on the deroure page that @21gg posted the link for. If you adjust these without knowing what you are doing - they can fall out and end up rattling around at the bottom of your door. Ask me how I know. If they fall out then sitting in the drivers seat you can press gently and make the top of the glass move away from the seal. They are easy enough to re-fit, but you need to turn them in the right direction - one end is standard thread, the other a reverse thread (so that when you turn it one way the gap between the adjuster blocks grows, and turning it the other way the gap closes).