electro_boy

Wondering what the forum views are on shock absorber lifetime and if they need servicing or replacing after a while? Reading though the manual for my Evora I couldn't see any info regarding servicing the shocks on the car after a certain amount of time appears they last the lifetime of the car without any maintenance. One of my hobbies is riding mountain bikes and the shocks on those are supposed to be serviced every X hours of riding, lubrication oil is changed regularly and damping oil and seals and o-rings are changed annually. I was recently at the Lotus driving academy chatting to a guy who rode motorbikes a lot and he also services his bike's suspension every year. So based on my limited experience I find it surprising the shocks on a performance car have no maintenance schedule, surely the oils break down or become contaminated over time and its beneficial to flush old stuff out and replace with fresh new stuff?

Thank you guys, I'll try cleaning the wheel / hub interface. My S1 does this when taking left hand corners at ~20mph+. Going to the right or slowly round a car park no problem but turning left on a twisty B road and I can here some clicking noises, think its coming from rear right wheel.

All cars do this not just Lotus. Its a lottery between the polarisation on your glasses and the one on the car's info screen. I have no problem in my S1 but on a BMW 535GT I loaned for a while I couldn't read the HUD with my glasses. Maybe there should be an international standard for the polarisation angle of cars and sunglasses to ensure compatibility?

Anyone struggling to actually get a quote from AIB? I called up on Monday afternoon to get a car insurance quote. Spent a while no the phone with the rep giving details etc ... Said he'll call back in an hour or so with a quote. Never did .. I called up again on Tuesday afternoon, explaining I was still waiting for a call back with a quote. I was left on hold for 8mins then the rep came back and said he'll chase it up and get back to me in 20-30mins ... Never called me back ... Its Thursday morning now and still no contact from AIB. I'd like use the advertisers when I can as they support the forum and this great Lotus community but its a bit hard when they won't even give a quote.

Yep it was particularly hot that evening, probably what caused it. Removing the dash sounds like a pain in the backside. hmm will see if I can live with it ... thanks all for the feedback

Driving home on Monday evening and heard a loudish pop coming from the passenger side of dash board. Wondering what the sound was I pulled the car over to take a look and noticed the passenger air bag panel had popped open slightly. Its not fully open and doesn’t flap about but it is not in line with the dash anymore and sits proud. Any idea how to fix this? Can I just force it back into alignment with the dash? Any chance this might set off the air bag?

My 2010 Evora with TPMS appears to use standard Schrader valves. I've used a few different petrol station tyre inflators and they fitted fine as does my 12v car tyre inflator thingy-bobby.

OK so as I thought, its not a Sports Racer edition. hmm wonder if this effects the insurance premium or not ... ?

I have a 2010 Evora NA. Its insurance renewal time and when I type my number plate into the form, it returns back with Lotus Evora Sports Racer. I don't have the black exterior panels and my interior appears to be the standard black leather trim. There is no red piping on the seats or other any marks to suggest anything other than standard? I always assumed it was a NA with all the option packs. So do I belong in the club or not?

Hi, Looking for an induction kit for my Evora NA 2010. If you have anything please let me know. thanks.

Download HERE maps, allows you to save offline maps and does offline routing too. I believe should work fine on Android Car but you'll have to wait till Apple release iOS 12 till you can use 3rd party mapping software with Apple car play.

If you can't get hold of templates its easy to make your own using the existing protection on the car. Cover existing protection film with paper and use a chalk or crayon to rub around the edge to make an outline of the current film shape. You can then enhance the edges with a marker if required.

Who did you get that quote from? I rang round a few dealers last year a was quoted more along the lines of £3.5K-£4.5K Luckily the dealer I bought the car from accepted it as warranty claim so was free of charge (phew).

The following post may help with the wiring loom:

If you want a replacement headunit, I have the original head unit from the S1 Evora CD player is a bit dodgy skips a few times I think it needs one of lens cleaning discs? But other than that it was working fine, bluetooth, radio, GPS, reverse camera image etc .. Currently its just sitting around doing nothing, no idea what its worth, if you are interested send me a PM with a fair offer.

Fantastic, thank you for the info that was very helpful. Glad to see the wax will easily buff to a shine with just a wipe or two. I feared it would be like polishing and require a bit of elbow grease.

@Greg | ValetPro, I have one of your starter kits boxes and have a few questions regarding applying the wax. I was planning on giving the car a good clean with supplied shampoo, drying the car and then applying the wax using the supplied foam applicator. People above are suggesting a polish is needed before waxing. Is this just for optimal results or because it really is needed? ie for a basic finish can I skip this step? Do I also use the foam applicator to buff the wax or is this just to apply the wax? Would a basic budget level rotary polish machine be ok to buff the wax? http://amzn.eu/9epD0oJ. What material should the pad be made out of for buffing the wax? If a polish is needed will this remove the ceramic coating I have on the paintwork? From my understanding polishing uses a cutting compound which is abrasive and removes a very fine amount of paint so am wary that the ceramic coating will be removed too? thank you.

Hi Evorasteve, always happy to meet up with other Lotus owners, send me pm some time if you fancy meeting up. I was out on a drive yesterday evening and passed another S1 orange Evora while going through Dagnall on my way towards Whipsnade ! was exactly the same as mine. I think both of us had to do a double take when we passed each other 😄 It was like driving past a mirror.

great thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

I'm no car mechanic by a long way but here is what my plan of action would be. Take the ignition relay out and check the pins on the board that the ECU (or some other thingy) is actually telling the ignition relay to switch on. If that results in a pass then I guess the problem is between relay and the starter motor otherwise problem is before the relay. Try and have a look on DeRoure to see if the parts diagrams show what else is in the whole ignition path. https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?MDL=20&MAK=1&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 Then try checking the nodes between each component in that path to see where the fault is.

Thank you very much guys, thats very helpful and doesn't look too hard (famous last words), looks like even a newbie like me could have a go without getting into too much trouble? @Bravo73 Where can I get a copy of the notes?

Howdy all, any one know how to get the door cards off in an S1 Evora? My door locks are playing up, especially the passenger side. The central locking actuator is moving the locking pin but the pin does not rise up fully and the door remains locked. I either have to fully pull the pin up by hand if on the inside or the car or use the key and have a 2 or 3 goes at unlocking until the pin is sufficiently raised to unlock the door. Central locking works fine to lock the car just the unlocking is causing problems. I'm thinking of opening up the door and taking a look inside to see if something is actually broken or just needs a clean and grease. I had quick look around but couldn't find any info on how to get the door cards off, if any one had done this before or knows of a guide, I'd be very grateful. thank you.

Quick update guys, I went to clear the codes and see whats what with the car. Engine started and idling and error light was still on. The code reader was still displaying the same two codes as before. I tried to clear the codes but the code reader kept displaying an error when trying to clear the codes. So while I was scrambling around looking for the instruction manual I noticed the engine warning light had gone off. Not sure if the code reader did clear the codes or the ECU reset it by it self? Either way, no light and engine is idling fine with no weird noises. Too much rush hour traffic at the moment but will try taking it for a gentle test drive later. Fingers crossed all is good. Didn't fancy spending money I had reserved for exhaust manifolds on fixing a fault. 🙂

Thanks for the feedback guys, appreciate it. Always use premium fuel so 98/99 RON. I thought this was fine? It’s only when you use lower RON fuel that you could run into problems? Could possibly be a dirty or faulty MAF but after the initial hickup the engine was running smoothly. I would have thought if faulty MAF related it would stay constantly rough? Or at least oscillate between smooth and rough? I’ll try clearing the codes and idling for a few minutes. If no error codes appear, I’ll take it for a gentle spin to see if the problem arises again. If not, I will just put it down to a hickup.

Was driving the car yesterday and the MIL light came on and limp mode was enabled and the engine sounded a little lumpy too. Switched the engine off, inspected the engine and nothing looked like it had blown up. The oil dip stick was clean and showing good level, coolant levels were good and no mayo on the cap. Switched engine back on and it was running normally again no smoke or smells from the exhaust. So I slowly drove back home, the car was still in limp mode so revs were limited but other than that it felt fine. Went out a bought a OBD2 reader and got the following codes: P1302 - which I gather is a code for something has gone wrong and will possibly cause damage to the cat. P0305 - which is misfire on cylinder 5. This evening the car is idling OK and I slowly reved it too 3K while in neutral and it sounded OK. I'm thinking maybe it was just a glitch or maybe I floored it too hard when the engine was still cold causing the misfire? Current thinking is clear the codes and go for a gentle drive to see if the errors occur again? Sound reasonable to you guys? or am I going to damage the engine and I should really take it to a garage to get checked out?