Niffty951

Could you explain briefly the issue? I only ask because I received one 12 months ago (pretty recently) and as you say about older ones, I was blown away by the unrivalled quality. I can't imagine anyone taking fault with it, but I'll look to see if I can spot anything you say. I am not a fabrics expert.

This was my old car. Traded it in for a fair bit more than that. It was in spectacular condition 500 miles ago, I keep me cars with an engineers attention to detail and it arrived with me pretty much perfect. I doubt a lot has changed in the last 500 miles, so when it does next pop up for sale I can highly recommend making the trip if you want a good one. I sold it with the intention of moving straight to a GT410 Sport, but then personal circumstances changed. Life never fails to surprise. I'll be back at some point. Loved that car.

I don't believe the sport button alters the traction control. It only holds the exhaust valve open and changes the throttle map I believe. I always have the traction control fully off on track though and advised him to do the same as it's a lot more clear in it's communications around the limit with it off. When on it's quite vague about how much Work it's doing? You get a feeling of the wheels being braked quite early. Off I find the car slips and moves in a gentile, reassuring way quite a lot before it really lets go on you, usually when it does snap to a big angle it's because you haven't given the weight a chance to settle onto the tyre well and even then it never span on me. I had a few big angle moments, looking at 90deg to the track, not sure it would come back, but it always stayed true to the line the car was on, never ploughed the front end forward like a Z4M does and always came back. A very friendly car beyond the limit.

Tyre pressures I'd set in advance so they were ~32/34 at the end of lapping. The car didn't bottom out or scrub anywhere. Although it looks very close in the photos! He got 8.7mpg vs my 8.1mpg, shows how much over braking and 2nd gear I used (but only my first 3 laps ever at the ring). Car/steering did feel a little light at times over crests, but still not enough to unsettle the tyres. The pads were smoking, not impressed with the Carbon Lorraine pads at all. They rattled in the calipers and overheated leading to a very hard/unresponsive brake pedal within 1/2 a lap with me driving. In their defence they always came back once cooled and I did another track day on these same pads after I drove home. They were removed from the car before I sold it.

I left the fold today, sold my Evora but I left a parting gift to the Evora fraternity. I will be back, in a GT410 Sport

Sold. Awaiting payment

A couple of things not clear to me about the late model year cars. This front bumper doesn't look the same as the 400 or 410 sport front end? https://www.topgear.com/car-reviews/lotus/evora-400/35-v6-gt430-2dr/first-drive When did it change, which models came with this bumper? Also the Evora GT with 416hp was that model ever available in the UK/Europe or did we only get 410/430 options? thanks in advance, these questions have been bothering me a while.

I love this boot up Graphic. Where did you find that?!

Dare I say that last pic is not flattering to the Emira. The Evora looks a much cleaner, more elegant shape. The Emira a little scrunched in the face

I should pre-state I have a positive Porsche bias. A car has to be noticably better to get me out of one. I went in with high expectations to the 981 GT4, expected to be in love, which is always a mistake. I came away very numb. I think the factory exhaust sounds phoney and digital, the gears are so long that if you hang onto 2nd out of a roundabout you're soon seeing 1 too many digits and not really feeling the joy and the cabin feels like there is a lot around you in all directions. You sit far from the glass which stops the car 'shrinking' like an older 911 or early Cayman does. On the plus side, the performance is well judged, the seats are excellent, the car is significantly more practical for a long trip than the Evora (luggage space with the front boot and long parcel area is superb) and the creature comforts of the interior do not leave you wanting. Handling, both cars are excellent, the approach is different. The evora moving in a more 2d way. Be aware general servicing and parts are more in a Porsche. I have the feeling main dealers are like london taxis, the bill meter starts at £1000 and then you add whatever job you asked to be done. Summary: As per above. Better suited on track, less engaging on the road

Didn't know this gadget existed! Definitely going to invest. I'm 100% sure I've added swirl marks to my black paint when drying the car with a damp microfiber cloth to stop water marks

Shhhh. I want one.

Another vote for Rimtec did a great job at a very fair price and managed to straighten a dent in the inside of the rim without replacement.

I'm in the same place with my Evora S the standard brakes are probably just about enough, but now a few track days in are starting to crack between drill holes. Disks get tired too quickly for me to justify £1000 on a pair of floating rotors. Last time I did it (Alcons on a 996 turbo) I regretted it for the low speed rattle and they looked just as knackered after 2 track days! I'm tempted to just opt for solid disks, but I'd love if there were some intermediate option like the EBC dimpled and grooved disks. Those i found to be very long lived on my 944 (hate the yellow stuff pads, do not recommend).

Not to jump to conclusions, but ~1hr driving ago I had an engine warning light, which OBD code reads as low Catalyst function. On the way to the garage I noticed intermittent reduced performance (a feeling of the engine being 'strangled') and at the garage the mechanic noted the exhaust rattles when shaken. I'm becoming concerned my factory cats are collapsing. The car is currently with Hoffmans who I took it to to diagnose the loss of power and engine light coming on. I read that this is not unheard of fault on the Supercharged cars. Looking at the website 2bular appear to offer a sport cat option 'power kit' & full system for £4675 plus fitting. A nice option but that's an eye watering bill for what feels like a minor fault. It could be £6k with fitting! That's 'I've shredded a gearbox' or I fitted a bigger supercharger money in my book. What does the forum of knowledge have to say on this topic? If I want to do a few track days in the car what have people found that worked well?

That's good info on the expansion gap, would instinctively have thought aluminium caliper would expand away from the pad but I guess the pad is a lot hotter than the liquid cooled lump with thermal inertia. Also yes, would still recommend RC5+ pads for fast road. Superb pedal feel and confidence. A lot more bite than standard, but doesn't take many pedal presses before you can modulate just as accurately as standard OEM. I didn't fit anti-rattle shims as I was concerned they will reduce heat transfer into the calipers. May be desirable if you're boiling fluid, but I've got a higher temp fluid in there and it's never been a problem. Seems better to utilise the brass backing plates and get the heat out of the pad fast.

Space and practically 997 wins hands down, front and back seats (though 991.1 is the first 911 to get Isofix rear seats). Plus it's just an easier car to use more frequently, visibility out, getting in etc. However, the running costs & risk of nasty surprise bills with a 997 (yes even the .2) is significantly worse. Any job that needs doing seems to start at £1000 plus the cost of doing that job on a regular car. Then there's smiles per mile. The 997 needs to be driven a lot faster to get even close to the same enjoyment you get out of driving an Evora. I used to say if I can hear the engine singing in my 911 I'm doing three figures. In the Evora I can put a proper grin on my face without breaking the speed limit. P.s. I'm also 15 mins from Rugby if you want a poke around a car without feeling guilty about misleading a seller. I won't be selling mine

So I asked the Exige guys (because there's a lot of Track experience there) and got some good options for brake pads for Road use with occasional Track days. Top suggestions were: Carbon Lorraine RC5+ or RC6 Performance Friction PF08 Warning on the RC6 pads was they eat disks, maybe a bit more Track only. So I went with RC5's as a first try. Now done 2-3k road miles and 2 Track days on them. Positives: Excellent pedal feel and bite from cold & in the wet. I'd guess coefficient of friction near double standard pads. Very confidence inspiring on the road. Also, brakes come back as good as new even after being overheated and smoking. Negatives: The pads are a nasty fit in the calipers. Though they line up well with standard pads placed back to back. Too wide tolerances mean you can actually hear them 'clunk' back and forth going from reverse to first and they can rattle on rough roads, where standard pads never did. They will also overheat with moderate track use in about ~5 miles (1.5 laps for me) at which point they transfer material onto the disk surface and the coefficient of friction becomes about half a standard pad. The moment of change is extremely unsettling, but I have since learned that if you push through this. You can actually keep driving for a good ~30miles on track and with a wooden feeling pedal and a lot of brake effort the car will still stop just as hard and stay consistent at that lower grip level. After ~30 miles (8 laps in this case) the pads do start smoking and the disks are covered in pad material. So, the results of my initial testing are that the weight of the Evora over the Exige V6 is enough to push the pads out of their comfort zone on track. They are superb for fast road use. I'm probably going to try Pagid next, Porsche guys use them happily in heavier/faster cars, but not sure which grade will give me the best bite/durability. Also note worthy, the standard fit drilled disks have not cracked from the drillings yet like the Porsche steel disks all do after one track day. Very impressed with those so far.

Most often I use: https://javelintrackdays.co.uk/trackdays/ However, I've also used these a bit. Should be a good range of dates and circuits between the two. https://www.trackdays.co.uk/

Pleasure to meet you today. Even more of a pleasure to learn that the non-hardened gear issue was only pre-2012 close ratio boxes. No issue with mine but every Evora S owner I've met so far (before you) has told me the woes of their gearbox failure! I was beginning to think this was the enviable future of my car.

"The car's dashboard is dominated by a large touchscreen display that controls everything from the infotainment system to the climate control." With this and the 2 seater comment, it's just bollocks really isn’t it. Concerning when asking about something you don't know

God that colour looks good! If I had my money again.

Not many places you bump into two others without arranging it!

I assume this is gone 😢

Searched but didn't find. Hoping this thread may become a resource for the literally 10's of others who may ever do this job. I tried to fit my new carbon hatch tonight to my Evora S 2013. First issue, can't remove the third brake light without: A. Enlarging hole in the original Hatch so the plug on the end of the cable will fit, B. Cutting plug off the light. I didn't fancy either as I want to keep the original part/be able to swap back if needed, but am I missing a trick? Also, how do you remove the soft padded panel needed to access the latch screws on the original Hatch. It took more than a medium level of force and I didn't want to snap anything if there's an approved method? Rather hoped this would be an easy job. Anyything else I'm likely to find when I get further?