Phaeton91

I put a deposit on an Emira 2 days after the Goodwood launch. Cancelled it 20 months later after driving one. Couldn’t realistically see it as a big enough step forward from the Evora and in terms of practicality it was retrograde. I likened it to someone ditching their wife for a younger woman. It may be all shiny and new for a while but then after the gloss has faded, it’s all very much the same - and they are significantly lighter in the pocket.

Thank you for sharing this. Look forward to hearing more about your experiences with these changes..

When you strip it all away the cabin of the Evora is effectively a composite bath tub with the acoustic qualities to match so it’s not surprise it’s a bit boomy. It’ll take some doing to reduce this but why not try? I have used (off Amazon) Canopus sound deadening material on the inside of my doors and the sub enclosure. It’s self adhesive and easy to work with. I wouldn’t know if it’s the best on the market but it did the job for what o was after. I’d say that under the back seat and behind it would be a good place to start. Then the floors, underseats and doors etc. in terms of weight, it is around 4kg for every 10sq ft. I get the comments about weight but I’m 72kg, and no one seems to suggest that a driver who is 80kg makes a substantial difference to a car and if it’s that much of an issue one can leave a couple of gallons of fuel out to balance it out Besides, having the weight at floor level would reduce the centre of gravity by a fraction of an inch to compensate. The only thing is that if you do this and don’t like it, it will be a pig to unstick it all. I really wouldn’t fancy that job.

Currently in South Africa and wondered what the local market was like for Lotus cars. There are currently 5 for sale. An Elan, 2 dubious looking non badged Sevens (ie kit cars) and 2 Emiras. Here’s one of the Emira’s - current exchange rate is around 23 rand to the pound, so north of £100k being asked. Cars here are definitely more expensive than in the UK but this is really big money!

Suggest you also research the insurance aspects carefully. A few years back I was looking to retrofit cruise control to an older car and the insurance companies didn’t like the idea of such mods.

Those pressures sound v high, certainly compared to the specification for Michelin PSS on the 400. I’m wondering whether there’s a different pressure that works better for the Contis than what the original spec tyres were for the S. Could that make a difference?

Yes this sounds pretty crappy. I can’t escape the thought that it’s a manufacturers warranty and not a dealers warranty. If it was built in September and not sold until let’s say a year later, why would that be that down to the manufacturer? Hopefully, the issues you have are more niggly than serious.

I agree with you @Bibs. Something looked very wrong there. Fortunately, I don’t have a habit of pouring sand in my engine, and I don’t drive in the Sahara with the oil cap off so I should be safe with an OE filter.

I’d normally expect a clutch that’s on its last legs to slip, but as @LotusFella said, it looks like it’s not the only reason they may need changing. My 400 is on 36k miles and whilst it’s not slipping, I’m interested in finding out more generally - hearing about clutches going at anything under 40/50k miles is a worry.

What was the main symptom you experienced - was it slipping?

Hi. Mines a 400 but I think they are the same. The surround to the head unit unclips. There are no screws but the clips are pretty strong. There are 4 clips - 2 on the top and two on the bottom. Run your fingers along the bottom rear edge of the surround and you’ll get a feel for how to pull it towards you. You need to pull hard and you will go ouch (tops of fingers) when it releases but nothing too bad. Then gently encourage the top clips to release. Then it’s 4 cross head screws and that should be it.

Very funny. I actually edited my comment to add the “any other colour bit” 😂. Anyway, I guess grey it is then. Great colour too by the way 😉

When you look at the structure of the boot there are very few possibilities for water ingress so a process of elimination should expose the issue. I’d start with removing all the carpets and leaving them out. Do the “peanut butter test”. I was taking the p**s but also serious. Use Vaseline, chalk or whatever but you want to establish whether the seal is pushing up against the underside of the bootlid before replacing it. Also check that there is no ingress from under the seal but seems that Bibs etc have tested that. You don’t say if this happens only when stationary or when driving? Do you use a jet wash? Like you said, it doubles as an aquarium and in that case there’s limited points where water can come in or out. You could for example tape small (1”-2”) sections of cloth to the inside of the boot and see which ones get wet and which stay dry?

Good luck with the search. You’re starting early enough in the year to be a little selective but if my experience is anything to go by the colour and trim is a bit like having a child. You might think you would love a boy but when you have a girl it’s fantastic and when you would love a daughter your new born son is the bees knees. Ultimately it’s the connection that gripped me and not the colour of the clothing. The 400 will deliver joy in white black red yellow or any of the colours Lotus painted it in 😁

I’d recommend that anyone attempting work in or around the engine bay lays an old bedsheet or such like over the bay. The 5 minute job can become a fair bit longer if you drop a nut, bolt, circlip or a tool - it’s easily done - especially with cold fingers.