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Hello, sorry if I missed it, but is this wonderful set of brackets etc still available for purchase, and at what price? Please kindly advise. Anton '95 S4s

Thank you all; my apologies for an obvious typo, I meant to say IAC was in 21-31 range, not BLM which was 116 (that seems to be OK, doesn't it?). That's for the car stationary, warm (after a ride),with engine running for 36 seconds just to get the log. Same, with engine off, gave IAC = 152, BLM = 116. New IAC was provided by JAE, with the correct part #, looking exactly the same as the old one (I have pics of both). I thought about a bad O2 sensor as a possibility but I don't see any of bad symptoms yet. Both logs are attached, can somebody please take a look and advise? diagn27_eng_off.xlsx diagn28_eng_on.xlsx

I followed the procedure in Freescan manual, p. 30 re: poor idle (reset IAC via Freescan, disconnect battery (with cold engine), re-start engine, let idle for 15 min's with AC on then 5 min's with AC off, drive normally, over 20 mph, let ECU re-learn). I did all that and the engine idled at 900-1,000 rpm. When driving, all seemed normal, idle never dropped below 900 when slowing down/at stops. No CEL. After the ride, I got another Freescan log, with engine on (car stationary; AC, accessories off), and BLM this time was in 23-31 range which looks almost normal compared to the range 25-40 from the Service notes (EMH, p. 62). Before all this, I also checked for vacuum leaks (the different circuit that includes MAP etc), didn't find any. So this time everything was OK, it seems. Under very similar conditions, last time it wasn't, so my question is - why? What can trigger the lower than minimal idle? Clearly this problem is intermittent. I'm trying to rule out: weather conditions, vacuum leaks (checked), bad IAC (good, new). I didn't touch the throttle stop screw or TPS. I will keep an eye on all this but I would appreciate any extra insights, thank you.

Derek, yes, I did all that multiple times. I suppose I have to double check again. Barry, I appreciate your info; I doubt though that it's applicable to my S4s which is a much later fuel injected version. BTW, I replaced VSS 9 months ago.

Derek, thank you, so you are saying that the connectivity between VSS and ECU is intermittent? I checked it multiple times and it was always good. Besides, I replaced the VSS with a new one. All that - prior to replacing the speedo. So to speak, I don't need VSS anymore, not for the new speedo anyway. If so, how can this be fixed? Barry, thank you, how is VSS related to fueling, can you elaborate?

Hi All, This problem with the rpm's dropping below the minimal idle level (900) had not appeared for a while, but it did occur with my S4s again recently. Trying to keep it consistent, I happened to have 2 Freescan logs - one from a most recent ride, call it Ride 2 (amb. temp. around 49F) where this problem occurred, and a log from a prior run, call it Ride 1, under similar conditions (amb. temp. around 39F), where it didn't. Ride 1 log was taken from the car stationary, after a ride, with the engine running at idle; Ride 2 log - with all the same but the engine off. I checked BLM and IAC parameters and found that: After Ride 1, BLM stayed at 102 (within normal range 80-130), IAC varied within 61-68 (within normal range 40-70 for driving). After Ride 2, BLM dropped to 64 which is lower than the range; I reset it via Freescan so it's back at 128. (Right after this reset, IAC dropped from 170 all the way to 7 and jumped back to 170; I hope this is normal when a reset is done?). So something during Ride 2 made BLM drop low. Could it be the amb. temperature/weather change (as Freescan manual says)? The rides were very similar (45 miles each, same route, similar driving), 1.5 months apart in time; between them, I drove the car and didn't have this issue until recently. During Ride 2, when slowing down, coming to a stop, the car didn't stall but rpm's dropped to 600 and then back to 900. I'll keep on checking, but I'll appreciate any insight on this as well, thank you. Anton.

Hi All, I successfully replaced the old non-working speedo on my S4s with a new GPS one and it works fine. However, sometimes CEL comes on and off (may be a few times during a ride, and not on every ride), after which I read the code (with a paperclip method and via Freescan) to be the code 24 - VSS (vehicle speed sensor). From the 3 existing speedo wires, I'm reusing the two: ground (black) and power (green), but not the 3rd one: speed signal (orange). It seems that ECU at times senses there is no connection to the speedo (probably via that orange wire) and generates that code 24. Is there a way to fix this? Something like connecting the unused orange wire to a resistor or something similar? Please kindly advise, thanks in advance. Anton '95 Esprit S4s

Thank you, I already checked it out. Most of that discussion pertains to the European sizes: front 235/40-17 front and rear 285/35-18 though. I'd like to stick with the original US sizes.

Hi All, What would be the Forum's recommendations for tires for an S4s? The sizes are: front 215/40-17, and rear 245/45-17. I've done some initial research and found that the Continental ContiSportContact 2's that I had 2 sets of consecutively on the car are no longer available. Namely, these sizes have become harder to find. TireRack has only 2 kinds in these sizes, one of which is Falken Azenis RT615K+; did any Esprit owners have experience with them? Any other recommendations? Thanks very much in advance. Anton.

Derek, yes, thank you, I can see this value as 'IAC Position' on the Freescan's 'Engine Data' screen indeed. I haven't taken a fresh measurement yet, but I looked up snapshots of Freescan from my previous diagnostic 'probes' - usually after a run, when the engine is warm but off (and so are all electrical accessories), and I saw a typical value being around 170. This was from a few probes during past summer and fall months. You said it should be within 25 - 40 range. Trying to reconcile this with my setting, I'm checking Freescan pdf manual and I see that this IAC Position value should be: 1) Engine on at idle, warm-up cycle: 170, will slowly drop down to about 70. 2) Engine on, normal driving: should now be between 40 and 70. Sadly in my case, the only way I can test it with the engine running is when the car is idling, stationary. I wonder what the expected range should be for that? Please advise, thank you.

Derek, if so, how do I check what IAC position is? In particular, in Freescan, what parameter corresponds to that? Among others, I see "IAC" there, is it the one? I take it, I should plug in Freescan to get IAC position when, like you said, the idle stabilizes at closed throttle. I'd say, it's pretty stable even right after a cold start. So should I take the measurement when the engine is cold, or when it's warm before a ride, or after a ride? Re: throttle stop screw setting, I made sure not to change it. Please advise, thank you.

Derek, thank you. So if get this right, the lowest idle rpm is one of those parameters that ECU keeps dynamically re-learning, based on the ongoing/changing driving conditions? Just sharing my further thoughts on this: I also noticed that when the car was doing that - dropping the idle below the lowest mark, so the engine would stall, it was usually after a brisk deceleration, say when coming to a stop sign/traffic light (never mind the untimeliness/inconvenience of such a mishap - I'd have to re-start the engine approaching an intersection, with other cars usually before and after me ). I wonder why it was the case (pattern)... And it wasn't the first deceleration during a ride (before which the battery would be re-connected), but it could a first brisk one. I guess I'm saying the ECU already re-learned at least a part of parameters for slowing down, but for some reason - not yet for slowing down quickly. To learn that, I guess that scenario had to be repeated a few times.

Derek, Ajhep, Thank you for your replies. Indeed, I disconnected battery a few times lately. And in part, I thought it would save battery's life (as I drive the car once a week at most) even though it's a new one in my case. I'll try to use a battery tender from now on. However, I'd like to understand something here: do I get this right that this lowest possible idle (rpm), below which the engine would stall, is not 'hard-coded', but rather re-learned by the engine every time (during initial 30 minutes of driving) after the battery was re-connected? Please kindly explain. Anton.

Hi All, I finally got to try it. As I don't have a laptop, but only a PC, I could connect it and run Freescan while the car was stationary. So I've reset BLM via Freescan - and, while doing it, got a datalog (ignition on, engine off, before cold start). From the log, I noticed 2 things: 1) BLM switched from 128 to 126 (what does that mean?), 2) Des Idle changed from 1,450 to 1,250. I also followed the ECU reset procedure: with ignition on, engine still off, floored the gas pedal. Then started the engine. After that I let the car idle and engine warm, as it was chilly outside, even after idling for 10 minutes, the fans didn't kick in. So I drove the car for 10 minutes at various speeds, slowed down and stopped multiple times, trying to imitate the conditions during which the idle would drop all the way. It didn't. The car drove normally all the way and would never stall (after a slow-down). I don't know what this is indicative of. I'll keep an eye on how the car drives. What I take out of this is at least this: lately, I disconnected the battery a few times, but didn't do ECU reset and didn't reset BLM, so perhaps the ECU didn't go through a proper learning cycle - well, at least re: the idle rpm. I will appreciate your opinions on this, thank you. Anton.

Barry, Yes, I replaced the IAC with a new one from JAE (correctly spec'd, I'm sure; part # A910E6942F as per parts manual). I will try to plug my PC with a serial port (through which I run Freescan) and reset BLM (I checked that I can do it via Freescan), and then, as you advised, to start up from cold and wait until the fans kick in. Filip, I'll double check all vacuum lines (to MAP etc) (noted it's a different circuit). I checked it recently, but I'll check it again (yes, I have the Engine Management manual with all the diagrams). Thanks very much for your help, I'll let you know then. Anton.