sailorbob

A possible solution put forward on another thread was to use a Duralast VC117 canister with a separate Delco 214-565 purge solenoid. Unfortunately there was no conclusion as to whether it was tried and did or didn't work.

As said above the rear toe is a pain to adjust and probably has been ignored. There's no excuse for not adjusting the rear camber unless the upper arms are seized. The front toe is wrong, it should be 0O12' +/- 4' toe out. The front castor is wrong too, it should be 3O12' +/- 12' and within 12' side to side.

The high wing spoiler has a different part number (A082B5018K) to the SE spoiler (B082B4931J) so they are probably not interchangeable.

I was wrong about both Cardone ECU's being DOA, only the second one was but the first one lasted less than 100 miles.

Where did you get the replacement ECU from? Another forum member bought two Cardone 're-manufactured' ECU's that were DOA.

Generally 4 AWG cable with a good insulator is rated at 170 amps so it's potentially undersized if the electrical demand comes close the alternators maximum output.

What gauge wiring has been used for the alternator?

Some of the 'specification' values in that print out are not correct (be aware there are two different values for the front geometry on the '88 - '92 vehicles). Before attempting to get it re-aligned I would check that the shims are correctly installed first, it is very common to find the number fitted or position is incorrect.

Nice work but to avoid confusion I suggest you add the suffix 'A' to the sheet numbers and change the 'MY94' to 'MY95'.

Presumably you mean a Tech 1A because of the 26 pins? The 2nd post in this thread gives some of them. https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5323

Is it the Torques Products Ltd. adapter that you've bought? If so I'd be interested to know how you find it as I've be curious about how it seals since they first came out. I'm surprised they don't make a barbed banjo too, maybe no one has asked them for one

I have a note that the bearing housing coolant ports are a 3/8" - 18 NPT thread size.

The Goodyear and the Michelin generally score higher in the tyre tests than the Dunlop. I regularly drive a car with the Michelins and find them good in both wet and dry. I haven't tried the '5' version of the Goodyear but have been happy with earlier versions of the Eagle F1.

Last night I had a look at the mounting plinths that came with my GT3 seats and all four are different, they comprises 2 types that are handed. I'm guessing it's due to the seatbelts.

The GT3 RH mounting plinth has the same part number as the S300 RH plinth (P6911301006AF) but the LH plinth part numbers are different (S300 - P6911301005AF, GT3 - P6911301008AF). No idea what the difference is.

The FAE 33370 reputedly cross references to the Bosch 0 280 130 026 Temperature [°C] Resistance Ω [Ohm] -40 45,313 -30 26,114 -20 15,462 -10 9,397 0 5,896 10 3,792 20 2,500 (+/- 5%) 30 1,707 40 1,175 50 834 60 596 70 436 80 323 90 243 100 187 110 144 120 113 130 89

The window problem could be the nylon slide guides, they can break. https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ082M0031.htm

5 forward gears and 1 reverse = 6

I'm guessing TEC went out of business as their website isn't available any more: www.turboengineering.com

I think there was a TSB for a revised latch (part number B082U7149F) to help prevent this issue but I cannot recall it's number or when it came in.

It got pulled before the end of the auction.

For that kind of money it's a shame it's not got the original cylinder head and, unless they been replaced, a few other non original parts.

Just a guess but a couple of thoughts are: The door lock motor may not be moving far enough to engage the door lock. Possibly due to wear, lack of current etc. The door lock mechanism may be stiff and resisting the movement of the door lock motor.

No experience of any of those but I use a Mahle KL158 on mine.

Yes, you are correct, I forgot about the changeover relay on these circuits.