MrDangerUS

Wat is the advantage of 4.250 ratio which makes it so "perfect"? Can anyone explain why? FYI, the stock CWP ratio is 4.375 and no one ever complained about Esprit dynamics.

SHAFTED? Shouldn't a bespoke one piece shaft be made (just for Esprit) to get rid of continuing circlip calamity and the nasty spline joint in the middle? In large scale production this design probably made sense for economics reason. Since g/box was used across a multiple car lines/models throughout the world/years. Therefore, several different shaft ends had to be manufactured to fit different applications. However, we have just one (two?) application to deal with! Do we really need this Rube Goldberg convolution? Renault UN1 transmissions with EMCO or GTO/Quaife one piece shaft conversion kits work pretty well all day long!

Last summer, I noticed that timing belt shifted forward and is not taut as before. I suspected a tensioner problem(s). Last weekend, I took out the tensioner hub and bearing and discovered that the pivot stud is bent. No idea how did it happen. Ordered a new (high alloy steel) stud from JAE. Part is high quality, made by ARP. I hope this will cure the problem. ALSO: IMO, in critical applications where high loads and vibration are present the nylock nuts should be avoided. I just barely avoided a catastrophe! Esprit 4 cyl. engines don't have a harmonic balancer, thus torque impulses are quite severe. The source of the oscillating stresses is created by the sudden impulses from combustion gases and the inertia of the crank rotating geometry. For every combustion event the crankshaft twists and then rebounds like an elastic band. A series of these violent twisting motions occurs a number of times during one crankshaft revolution which will loosen threaded fasteners. On my S4s, the OE Nylock nut holding timing belt tensioner hub "walked back" under hi load and vibration. That's why my belt felt suspiciously soft. I caught it just in time. I'm replacing this critical fastener with prevailing torque all metal GM lock nut, PN# 21006320 J

Hi Dave, Would your old spoiler fit my 95 S4s? Thanks

Well, the puzzle has been solved... I'm lucky that I took off the rear bumper for painting and could peek into the nooks and crannies from the bottom. I saw rear marker fasteners through this small hole in the bottom. Nuts can be taken off using 10mm long flex ratcheting spanner. Front is just a little bit better (or not?). Fasteners are above the FG fender filler marked "x". I'll have to remove screws holding the wheel well liner front edge to the front bumper/valance, pry these panels apart and work through the narrow slit. I'm glad I don't have to put these tiny nuts back on the studs. The same tedious procedure has to be used if one needs to replace burned side marker light, bulb. PITA!

Perhaps not quite related question, but... How to Remove these fugly side markers (probably borrowed straight from some agricultural manure spreader) ? I don't see any fasteners on the inside, just big holes. BTW, I can't imagine how to even replace the regular bulb? I want to replace them w/Elise style LED "edge" markers

Hey, Jacques, any updates on the Red Riding Hood? OR.. you're done modifying it? In October, I started working on my 88 Esprit Frankenstein. I abandoned her in 2017 when I bought the s4s. Now, back to old good friend. Just to prove that it is possible, I started fitting a power steering rack to it. For a week, I researched many different marques/types and configurations, on the web. I even bought (and returned) 4 of them, the common problem was, that they were too "tall" and could not insert the past the "triangle" in the left side of the chassis. Finally, after taking power tubes and grinding the top "tower" sides, I could insert an original (1998 Firebird?) rack without cutting out the support beam (hypotenuse of the triangle). Now, I'm working on developing an attachment brackets, because pre-93 chassis is different in this area. Attaching points are different all-together.

What hex size are the nuts? Thanks

A/C Compressor PN#-s for R134a? It's Winter, so it is a right time to think about Summer driving. Recently, I found AC Delco PN# 1135418 on eBay listed as x-ref for late 4 cyl Lotus cars. I checked my old notes and have a different number(s) , like 1998 Buick Skylark V6, 1998 Pontiac Grand Am V6, Delphi PN# 1135153. and ACDelco: 15-20335, 15-21209, also General Motors: 1135089, 1135153, 1135208, 1135270, 1135418 What is correct ? Here is a picture of my S4s (original?) leaky compressor.

Phil, Here is some info on SPALs: SPAL FANS 1. Mine are: PN# 30102057, diameter 10”, 2.25kg, 1103cfm @ P=0 H2O. Current draw: 5-5.5 A steady state, ~ 21 A in-rush current Similar, but larger, are 30102157 2. Diameter 11”, 2480 m^3/h, 1465cfm PN# 30102157, also known as VA03-AP76/LL-68A * 11"P/12V/PKSL https://www.spalusa.com/ 3. I have tried "pancake" fans, but they did not flow enough air. I don't remember if they were original Italian SPAL-s or chinese clones. I took them off and replaced with 30102057-s. I expect that any fan supplying over 800CFM would work fine. However, for US southern states- bigger are better! Remember that any "puller" fan becomes a "pusher" fan upon reversing the power wires! NOTE: any 10" fan can be fitted into OEM "rings" which provide a robust support. http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/products/axial_12.aspx https://www.universalpartsinc.com/shopping/?ic=10308 NOTE: 10A fuses are sufficient, but only for steady-state operation. They can not handle the in-rush current pulse( 0.5 sec). I have used the 15A slow blow fuses for a while with a better luck. Finally, I got tired of the frequent fuse replacement and added two auxiliary 60A relays and 2 thermistors to this circuit. Now, fans start slow and rpm ramp up gradually to the full speed in 3-5 seconds. Blow up fuses no more! PM me if you need a diagram or tech. support implementing this modification. IMPORTANT: As a precaution, install an additional thick grounding wire from terminal # 85 of the main fan relay to the nearest chassis point. Factory wire gauge is too small! This thin wire caused under the dash fires in the past. 10

Mark, Alunox header installation combined with a higher flowing turbo, 3.25" CAI and Micklewright racing hi-flow exhaust (NOT muffler, but just straight resonator) morphed my S4s into a Rocket Ship! Tubular header delivers absolutely incredible results! However, in the past, the HCI version was somewhat troublesome... US cars are configured differently. Remember Jenna's problems? https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/1995-s4-turbo-exhaust-upgrade.464140/#post-5912462 I hope, that this time all the issues were carefully investigated and addressed. More food for thought here: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/alunox-header-installation.469196/#post-6149952

CWP-s with thicker teeth are still available in USA at a better price! No VAT charged for ANY purchases. \.

Need help finding bushings for a rack as used on S4/S/4s/V-8 Two rubber caps, 1.07" OD and a metal sleeve, 2.01"-2.015" long. It should have a GM part number since the rack is a GM Saginaw unit. Probably Firebird/Camaro part? Thank you.

The car has been finished this spring and running quite well, except hi-rev problem from the get going. After a couple of spirited drives the 2-nd gear stopped working. Back in the shop. Gear box was disassembled and and found that brand new (SJ "substitute" part) 2-nd gear synchro spring failed. Also, the substitute spring was too short! Old original spring was installed an shifting got "normal" again. The only problem to be solved is hi rpm when idling and between the shifts. TPS and block water temperature sensor were replaced fixing problem for the short time. After a while, the problem came back. WTF? Any ideas how to fix hi-revs problem or what to replace next? Thanks