MrDangerUS

No, I did not experience any extraction incidents.

Mark, Would you please convey to Leon a couple of suggestions for further improvement of the CNC cut components of the system. 1. Add ~35 deg chamfer to the mounting holes to facilitate initial installation over the head studs. Runners can and will misbehave (rotate or droop), no matter how well you pre-position them. 2. The top nut pockets in the flanges need to be tad larger to be able to withdraw the ring spanner after final torquing. Apparently, there are a couple of different stud length and gasket thicknesses. Original studs seem to be longer and come close to the relief pocket edge, often closing the stud-to-exhaust flange clearance. Note, that 12mm hex nuts would not work with CNC cut flanges in this location. I had to use expensive K-nuts, which accept 10mm sockets and ring spanners. . If too long, the studs should be modified by grinding the tips little bit shorter. Older header versions have ample room for larger nuts. CNC CNC flange relief pocket, top stud location only. Shortened stud works much better.

Accel-s are yellow only. MSD-s are red only

Alunox prices are still very reasonable. Raging inflation makes this purchase a good investment, which will never depreciate. Keeping money on hand or in the Bank makes cash value loses pretty painful over the time. Not too many realize that inflation is a Geometric Sequence (Series), which affects pricing in a horrific magnitude. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geometric_series For example, with an actual true annual inflation in USA of ~14%, the $1,000 item would cost $1,688 at the end of 4-th year. Yikes! For real statistical data see: http://www.shadowstats.com/alternate_data/inflation-charts

I'm running yellow ACCEL 140017 coils, which deliver 5KV more than MSD 8224 . The same everything, plug-and-play.

Apparently someone identified this as a critical problem. JAE in Goleta,CA, sells super hard tensioner studs made by ARP. The thread holding the roller bearing has a revised pitch, from 1.5 mm to 1.25 mm.

Alunox header, which eliminates the OE "turbo adapter”, offers a great opportunity to to open up free-flow of the exhaust gases and improve your car performance. OE turbo turbine exducer diameter is small because of the restrictive "adapter" inner passage tube ID, (only 1,9"). Thus, the engine cannot breathe freely. Whilst ordering a new header, one may consider revising turbo at the same time. Stock turbine cover (A/R .63) can be machined to accept a larger wheel. Stock compressor (A/R .48) cover can be ported to Super 60 trim. If you want a bit more power, with minimal lag, ask to port the turbine a bit bigger than stock using exducer diameter 2.1 to 2.2 (53 to 56mm). Use a T3 compressor 60 trim. T3 60 trim has a smaller flow capacity (34 lbs/min) Vs the Super 60 (36 lbs/min) 60 trim has a smaller inducer than the Super 60 Trim. You could consider the Super 60 with a ( stock) 0.48 A/R compressor housing to improve drive ability. When increasing air flow, fueling has to be adjusted to achieve correct AFR. Also ignition has to be retarded little bit.

Hi Mark, Yes, please add my name to the list. Thank you John

Great! Please add my name to the List. Thank you John

Mark, If it is the system bolting directly to the turbo flange like in the picture, I'm in. I'd like to eliminate the OEM "adapter" which is a restrictive antiquity (junk!). The car is 1988 USA Federal, which still has 87 Giugiaro turbo position/location/geometry, but different body clearances. My modified turbo requires 59mm ID at the turbo flange. I'd like to get the header, straight downpipe without the CAT, wastegate, single muffler w/right side exit, all stainless, exactly as shown in the picture, attached. Would you be able to accommodate these requirements? Thank you John

FYI, OE components weights are: Turbo adapter 1,900 kg Wastegate bypass 2,381 kg EBPV valve 0,451 kg Wastegate 2,500 kg Cast iron exhaust header 12,700 kg Pre-Cat downpipe 3,000 kg Main CAT pipe w/CAT ? Muffler w/outlet pipe/tip 15,000 kg

Mark, Is it possible to get the system bolting directly to the turbo flange like in the picture? The car is 1988 USA Federal, which still has 87 Giugiaro turbo position/location/geometry, but different body clearances. I'd like to eliminate the OEM "adapter" which is a restrictive antiquity (junk!). FYI, the OE muffler, CAT and EBPV valve weighs 45lbs. Now, add to it wastegate & w/g extension! It would be interesting to calculate the total savings, if someone had the weight of wastegate, w/g extension, OE cast iron header and turbo "adapter". Thanks John

I decided to replace my original (30 yrs) old filter/drier. On my car the drier was Japanese made SANDEN S1440-A0030. I don't know if this is an original "Hethel" installed part or someone replaced it before (I'm the 3-rd owner). So, I'm looking for R134a Drier Sanden PN: S1440-A0030 (w/O-ring fittings), which may be NLA. I would gladly accept any generic substitute part, as long as it has a viewing glass, female O-ring fittings/receptacles w/ 9/16"-18 thread and 1/4" pipe thread hole on the left side of the "tower", to be able to install the pressure switch. Desired dimensions: the approx total height =8-9.25" and the body (can) diameter = ~ 60mm (2.5" max). 9/16-18 nipple thread The O-ring measures 6.35mm ID, 8.95mm OD and the nipple thread is 9/16"-18 in/out (it is NOT 14mm thread!). Thread size is critical for this application. Changing any lines/fittings to accommodate some other/different thread size is out of the question. Have you had any luck finding a correct replacement tor this part? Thanks for your input.

Hey, I have a "reverse" question. What would it take to retrofit 81-83 dry sump system onto 88' Esprit with A/C and P/S?

Hi Steve, Excellent! I looked everywhere and I couldn't find any decent pictures of the OE dry sump system. Thank you! In your opinion, what would it take to add D/S to 88' US Federal Turbo (910 engine with A/C, power steering, still Citroen gear box and inboard brakes)? Is it worth doing it? IMO, it would be fun doing that, providing that I can find all the bits. Thanks for any tips. John