fjmuurling

Many thanks Sikaflex info, didn't think about looking in the parts manual. The reason i asked is that I have a small leakage and ordered new parts. Freek Many thanks Sikaflex info, didn't think about looking in the parts manual. The reason i asked is that I have a small leakage and ordered new parts. Freek

Hi Glyn, which kind of Sikaflex do you use? Freek

I did mine a couple of months ago on the left door and the two ends of the new (original Lotus) were already glued together. Installing the new rubber only involved removing the old one and fitting the new one by means of pressing it into place. BTW the left and right are the same. Freek

Also on my 1990 SE, Freek

Condensation is always (if the AC is on) formed on the evaporator which is the thing which cools the air which is supplied to the inside of your car, that's why they always have a drain. If I remebered correctly I read a topic in this forum about the same problem. My idea is you have a problem with your drain. Freek

Hello, The Tune!it site: http://www.zeta.org.au/~dvolkmer/tuneit.html I just checked and now the version number is 3.43. The microphone I use is a good PC microphone from Trust (around 25 euro's). Make sure you buy one which has a starting frequency range at around 20 HZ. See also this post: http://www.glcforum.com/esprit/forums/inde...=&pid=76244 Hope this helps, Freek

The pads were changed 2 years / 7000 km's ago and are still in good shape. The handbrake cables are also new and the tire/tyre pressure is 2.1 bar all around and I check the pressure very regularly (almost every time if I take the car out if the car was sitting still for more than 2 weeks ar so). This is not a recent problem, I had it in the past also a few times but 2 days ago I had to brake hard in order to avoid a crazy volvo v70 driver who thought he could drive on the wrong side of the road. The brake system is airfree. I hope somebody has some more idea's, next week I'm going to check on the caliper but from memory when i changed the pads they were all ok. Freek

Hello, When I brake hard my right front wheel locks up (Only that one) The car is a LHD 1990 SE with the TMC front brakes and has EBC Greenstuff pads. When braking normal all is right ie the car doesn't pull to one side. Any idea's as what is causing this and which one is the most likely one. The calipers are free and not sticking on the sliding pin. The right hand front disc has some dark spots which are equally spaced around the circumfence of the disc. I don't know if this is the cause of the problem or if this is the result of locking up the wheel. Furthermore all the brake hoses are of the stainless steel braided type and the brake fluid is fresh. Any idea's are welcome. Freek

Hello, I had a similar problem with my two windows, opening and closing went slower and slower. I removed the hole mechanism and cleaned everything up and used new grease. Furthermore I opened the motors as wel and there was a lot of dirt etc between the collector and the carbon brushes. Cleaned everything up and put some new grease in the sliding bearing (opposite end of the collector end of the rotor). Mounted everything back end tested the whole mechanism on my workbench (without the windows) power comsumption went down from 4 or more amps to about 2 amps so this was a huge improvement. Fitted everything back and both windows are working like a dream (I must say that the alignment of the frames can be just a little bit better but never the less windows are going up and down smoothly). Freek

Very Nice Freek

Hello Jonathan, maybe this http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EM...ift_Kit_LC.html can help you. Freek.

Hello, The Alternator is adjustable in order to tension the belt by means of a plastic (white) strip which has been slotted. Make sure to loosen the long bolt on which the alternator can be rotaded. Acces for the bolt which holds the white strip is best gained from below (under the car). Freek

Hello, Normally the O2 readings should be jumping up and down for a good working lambda sensor. I had a similar problem after fitting a new exhaust and cat complete with a new aftermarlet lambda sensor. The car ran poor, stuttered and stalled until the engine was warm but even then it didn't run very well, it still hesitated when I applyed the throttle. After struggling with the problem ( Freescan log showing a working O2 sensor) for several 100's of kms I fitted a new original O2 sensor and since then the engine is running perfectly. I also read in other posts on this forum that the only way to go is for an original O2 sensor. Just my thoughts. Freek

Hello Jonathan, The sensor for your dashboard gauge is mounted near the waterpomp and the ECU uses a different sensor mounted in the engine block (under the inlet manifold if i'm right. So if the Freescan readout is correct (not fluctuating like you said) than it will probably a bad connection on the sensor for the gauge (ground for sensor is waterpump and the signal is a wire). Hope this helps, Freek

Found this on internet http://www.develgendokter.nl/ among a lot of other links while googling with "velgendokter". Hope this points you in the right direction. Freek

I fitted the kit from Lotus and it included the rubber boots as well. I don't have the Lotusnumber for the boots though only the Lotus number for the whole overhaul kit. Freek

I have a 1990 SE and the recommended interval for the beltchange is 20.000 km or every 2 years. Freek

or try http://www.ramspott-brandt.de/ Freek

Hello, maybe this might help also goto www.espritfactfile.com and then click on models (top row) vin (column on the left) and then decoder. Freek

Hello, I had similar problems after fitting a new (Larini) exhaust system (cat and silencer). When fitting the new system I also replaced the old Lambda sensor for a good aftermarket one. The problems after a few kilometers were that a code 44 came up once. Furthermore when the engine was cold it would stumble on idle and die a couple of times until the engine was warmed up. Also when accelerating on the highway there was hesitating on throttle pick up. After checking everything (nothing found) I finally put the old sensor back and guess what no more problems. I have now fitted a new original sensor (

It looks like it is an earthing wire in order to prevent a built up of static electricity as a result of the turning of the tensioner wheel. Freek

Roll over valve is there also. Freek

Artie Do you have the lotus service notes section EMH, it is all about the fuelinjection system loaded with diagrams and faultfinding. D082T0327J is the lotus number of the manual. My scanner is already a long time in storage somewhere so atm I'm not able to help you with scanning specific pages for you. Let me now if I can otherwise help you. Freek

Hello Artie, According to my service notes the ballast resistor is 3.3 Ohm. (Service notes section EMH 4 page 4). However I don't now the wattage. If I'm right the two secondary injectors are around 15 Ohm each. They are connected in parallel and then connected in series with the ballast resistor. So the total resistance of the secondary injector circuit is around 10.8 Ohm (15/2+3.3). So if you calculate with a 14V battery voltage (running engine) then the wattage of the resistor should be (14/10.8)^2 * 3.3 = 5.5 W minimum. Freek

Glyn, You are right a pitchfork is really something else, I meant a tuning fork. Freek