dmottram

Great colour.

The gauges would be in parallel, fed from the voltage stabiliser. If it is faulty they would see the same faulty applied voltage and react the same way. The stabiliser needs a good earth to operate properly. D

IF you carried out the compression test without having the throttle fully open when cranking the engine the readings would be low.

Remove all the spark plugs and ensure that the throttle is fully open when doing the test. Do it a couple of times on each cylinder.

VW used to do 8mm brass nuts with a reduced AF size. Very handy in this type of application. This is where I purchased mine from but they must also be available in the mother land https://www.justkampers.com.au/catalog/product/view/id/3047/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7KqZBhCBARIsAI-fTKJofvL4Yy0jqIufGWG3-cmTiKLITLGHZtsKyUXQiCvwutgYkRPMCiEaAgMGEALw_wcB

Give the carby a sharp hit with the plasitic end of a screwdriver in the area of the needle and seat and t will probably free up the jammed needle.

It looks fantastic as it is. It must be a hoot to drive, well done I say.

The other test you can carry out is a proper leak down test whereby compressed air is introduced into the chamber via the spark plug hole when the piston has just reached TDC on the compression stroke. Most such test instruments have two gauges which show applied pressure and "retained" pressure. If the valves are defective you can hear a hiss of air at either the exhaust outlet of carb inlet. If the rings are defective you can hear a hiss of air into the sump (listen at a breather hose). Around 10% leak down is where one starts to ask questions.

The hot test results look reasonable to me. I'd leave well alone. There is some wear evident n the ring dept but not enough to warrant a full strip down.

Dion, the Webers are pretty straight forward to set up and tune. I had this pair of 40DCOE carburettors on the shelf. The factory used 45 mm Dellortos which will produce more power at the top end as the choke size can be bigger. I will be using 34 mm chokes (perhaps even 33 mm chokes) so the higher depression thus generated will actually make them easier to tune and more responsive to drive. These days Down Under we cannot drive fast on the public road (110 kph max on the motorways but lots and lots of 100 kph, 80 and finally 40 kph in many situations. The default limit is 50 kph in built up areas unless otherwise sign posted). I have a couple of other cars I race for the speed bug and am happy enough to just enjoy the roads at the maximum allowed.

Richard, I agree that my airbox may well be less than optimum but the car will do everything I need it to do. My other Elite (Type 14) has Webers and performs well with a couple of simple air filters attached straight onto the Weber face with short trumpets inside.

I have today fabricated an air box for my Elite. The engine was fitted with Zenith/Stromberg carbs but when I rebuilt the engine I decided to fit a pair of Webers which I had on the shelf rather than overhaul the existing units. I obtained an inlet manifold from a JH to which I fitted the Webers. Then I needed air filtration so I made a back plate to suit the twin Webers. Next I used some foam sheets to mock up a plug for a GRP airbox. Once it was done I glassed over it to produce an airbox. Getting air into the box was fixed by some 90 mm plastic plumbing pieces. I will fit a pod filter to at least filter the worst of the dust.

I enjoy your approach to your Lotus, please continue the videos. Tell the trolls to "F k Off". Alternatively ask them if they have a Lotus and if so, can they contribute positively to the collective Lotus community rather than being negative and critical. They do not have to read your posts or watch your videos, they choose to do so. If they do not have a Lotus or wish to contribute then back to the start of my note....."FO". Like all trolls they would not have the gumption to say it to your face, preferring to hide behind the veil of anonymity.

Best to use an annealed copper washer instead of a fibre washer if you want it to be free of oil leaks.

A valve stuck open. Remove the valve covers and compare each one of a pair of valves. When an engine stops turning there are always one or more valves open and when sitting for so long corrosion can occur and cause a valve to remain open even when the camshaft position wold indicate that the valve(s) should be closed.