The_Del

That was probably me, It's been awhile since I was on those runs, fun times.

Thanks for the comments, I intend to fix some of the issues as time passes but good comments on car seats. Extra pictures will be beneficial for buyers and intend to get more done next week. Paintwork is not too bad except for the noted bad area at the front and wing. Will give it a good detail over the coming week. Good point on carpets will try and get that done. Trying to be a genuine sale to someone that can give the car a bit of luv

Just listed my Lotus Esprit S4s on carandclassic initially, for the moment and want to get a bit of feedback before I expand out a bit. https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C1750100 Any useful honest comment useful.

Hey let's get back on track with helpful info, this is not really who can read or not, and as Ian states lots of issues nothing kit-related but always worth double checking because of the differences in every Esprit as above. Mine is standard Brembo brakes with EBC discs and after a mail from Ian, I am changing the Pads, cleaning the discs, and upping the Vacuum a bit. For information and comparison purposes if anyone does have their MOT brake figures it would be nice to see. Just to add to good info if nothing else. If every Esprit was built identically they would be boring, the fact they have such variance makes them fun to work on but does mean that things are never one size fits all. It's always good to verify things and compare variances.

That is how it was factory set, i.e. delivered and instructions stated the starting point is 18" HG which is about 0.6 bar, and with variance when the motor pumps it up, it seemed ok to stick with the default setting as a starting point. My real inquiries were not just about the vacuum but also the pedal movement and MOT brake force figures etc to make sure everything was as expected. Just upping the vacuum is a brute-force fix and want to make sure there is nothing else potentially incorrect before simply turning the juice up. We did go through all the documentation multiple times and I am used to pilot checklists but they also have a co-pilot often to verify settings hence the enquires.

lol, a little to much right foot. I remember being the only one happy to drive onto lowloader...

Used the preset value as received as did not have off-road area to test brakes out to fiddle with the setting. Will up a little and get a retest with new pads and see if that improves it. If everything else seems the same as other people it just needs tweaking. Good to know, what is a suggestion for a softer feel pedal?

Hi Mate, yep been hovering around silently and the old girl has been in various states of repair over the years.

Finally got to test out the new brake conversion after various other issues that needed to be fixed first but got some issues and want to get other users views and comparisons to their setup to make sure I haven't done something silly. First off the kit is very well put together and the installation was ok but need time and make sure its not rushed. First, the issue is very hard pedal not much travel, and MOT braking stats were 210kgf front and 110kgf rear. My expectation would be near the 400-500 front but has anyone got MOT braking figures ? The servo is working, with the ignition off, pump the brakes until wooden, turn the ignition on pump works and the pedal goes down about 10-20mm. Guage is showing a nice 0.5 vacuum and holds that overnight+ so no leaks. The pump works every time the brakes are pressed. Pedal height is, resting 165mm to bulkhead approx, no server hard press goes to 130mm, with ignition on, and after vacuum pumps up will go down to about 110mm. Other parts I am looking at are discs ok, a bit of rust in places but the surface is generally clean. The rear pads are new but the front EBC are old, so changing to some new standard pads just to zero that out. Rear hand brake efficiency was 160/200kgf so the handbrake on the rear is giving better results than the service brakes, which sort or rule out disc or pads on the rear and would suggest a lack of braking pressure. Any thoughts or comparisons to your installation so I can rule out a few bits?

77 1.Del 2. S4s 3. Solo 4. not required 5. Cambridge

Although quiet lately myself, this is just one of those not to be missed opportunities. I should have the old girl operational if in September+

I mentioned that I had a replacement exhaust and that it was a standard stainless steel replacement to origional spec and they didn't add anything on. If it's not stated as performance enhancing part and just a standard replacement for the OEM part they usually don't mind but it's still on the paper work for reference.

Got EBC discs and pads on front and rear of mine and can't really fault them. Them took a hile to bed in but now they bite quickly and no fade issues so far. I'm not a slow driver either. I only put green stuff on as I do a lot of normal driving and didn't want any issues due to not getting to temparature. Also with the grooved and dimpled discs red-stuff wouldn't be required except for trck days IMHO.

The Esprit uses a pressurised coolant system that effectivley rasies the temprature that water will boil at. The temp's in summer traffic you suggest are high but not unexpected IMHOc. The Esprit really prefers to be moving to get airflow over the radiators and the water pump needs some revs to pump effectively. As stated it is worth ensureing your raditor is clean and unblocked, used decent water to stop stop any furring up of the system. After market radiators are possible to get that have more cores and a better cooling effect when moving but you will still see the temps raise high in traffic. An alternative suggested for other cars is to seperate one or more of the fans onto a seperate temprature switch so that a single fan comes on at a lower temprature say on at 90 off at 85, this could reduce overall traffic trempratures or delay temp build up.

Never heard of this as a potentila problem in any Esprit and have never heard of any such failures in the Nikasil liners. I'm thinking it isn't just a sulphour issue and maybe the Germans used a different coating process or other such manufacturing process that didn't protct from this issue. I know of cars over 10 years old, with near 100k on clock and liners seem perfect ?