910Esprit

The whole thing is a ridiculous. The outcome is pre-determined and 100% based on hindsight - Here's my prediction of the enquiry summary: There was insufficient planning (fair point - but do we really want to spend countless billions planning for an infinite number of events that may never occur?) Lockdowns should have been earlier and harder (That would only make sense if it was known a vaccine would be available - that was contrary to expectation at the time) I'm still not convinced that the overall outcome would have been significantly different had we literally done nothing...

I don't get that - That seals of the vacuum chamber from atmosphere. Without that seal, I would imagine there would be no servo effect and you may also have a rough running idle. As a very simple test, I would have thought you would hear the servo sucking air from the joint between the master cylinder and the servo just with the car running. To answer you other question, I recently replaced that valve using a similar kit.

I couldn't find the answer after changing a boot, so simply added a 'reasonable' amount (using a syringe between the boot and tie rod. I would have thought the quantity you suggest sounds OK.

I had a look on Permatex's website and the MSDS and none of the example usages are for moving or sliding parts. Its specified as an anti-seize compound for static parts such as nuts, studs exhausts etc. Having said that, the main ingredient is graphite, so I guess it will be OK

According to Denso, ND12 is still a PAG46 lubricant compatible with both R134 & R1234, so I would assume you'll be fine. But good practice suggests you should ideally use one or the other, if possible. (not an informed opinion! )

You could also check by removing the lower aluminium casting and not disturb the attachment to the adapter manifold

Airbus Max - No thanks. Its only the software that makes it flyable (usually). I too spent a career on 370 architecture machines (a homogeneous environment that supported all applications on a single platform) Many problems of recent years arose when computing became fragmented (eg mainframes interfacing with 3rd party packages or the Web) etc and you have a nightmare mixture of different platforms and operating systems all trying to interface with each other on different upgrade cycles and ongoing incompatibility (I would wager this is what's caused some large projects to fail or spectacular banking failures etc). That's one of the reasons why cloud computing is 'the future' for now. But I do wonder what will happen to pricing when it becomes ubiquitous. I always thought it was strange that IBM didn't licence a version of the MVS/TSO (mainframe) environment that could have easily have run on modern small or mid-range machines, allowing customers a viable alternative to the prohibitively expensive mainframe costs, which are pretty much pricing themselves into obscurity for commercial use. (sorry I seem to have slipped into a mainframe IT forum mode...)

Hi Mark - That's excellent info. Could you do me a little favour and wrap a tape measure around its body and measure its circumference EG the wide part that the diaphragm sits inside (eg not the 'pie crust' crimped part).

Remove the reverse light switch to avoid damage (also drain oil or it will run out of here as you lift). Remove the rear disks/calipers to give yourself more wiggle room. Remove engine/transaxle as a single unit. Once you start lifting, the whole assembly needs to be angled steeply down at the rear - maybe +30 degrees or so. Make sure your lifting gear arrangement will be able to accommodate the changing angle as you lift. Ensure you have enough headroom and a long reach engine hoist.

as Steve points out, the inboard end of the axle is supported and held in position by a double row ball race in the driveshaft housings. (unrelated to the bearings that support the crownwheel) This inboard driveshaft bearing should not allow any play whatsoever. Assuming all bushes are in serviceable order, I'd start taking some measurements off all your suspension pick up points to make sure there is no accident damage. Also double check that things like driveshafts, dampers etc are absolutely identical on both sides. You never know what bodges have been done before your ownership

We absolutely do. Legal power limit is a modest 250 watts and 'throttles' are not allowed (legal versions must be accompanied by pedalling for the motor to function. Electrical assistance must also be limited to 25kph. However, Every Deliveroo rider's versions are clearly illegal (you can see immediately by the physical size of the hub motors, or the lack of pedalling). However, the police clearly turn a blind eye to it.

I'm sure the 'escapee' will put up a plausible defence that he was having a mental health crisis or was in fear of his life from another inmate etc... On the plus side, by going back through the court system he can have a new sentence imposed - assuming he is found guilty

Also another Tesco user... Used it more years with no issues. Probably worth changing your engine bay hoses as a matter of course with good quality Ethanol rated stuff

Yes I saw that and it was the price that sent me in a different direction!

Your existing system can use modern gas (R134a) if you drain the existing mineral oil as far as possible from the system (condenser, compressor & hoses) and refill with POE oil (which is tolerant to some contamination from the residual mineral oil). You would also need to replace the receiver/dryer (cheap) and fit R134a adaptors to the R12 shreader type valves. If everything is in working order that would get you up and running. However, the older hoses are porous to R134a which has a smaller molecule size, so replacing the old hoses will make the system much more reliable. Dont understand the tensioner question there is just a single pivot point and a nut & bolt running in a slot to adjust the tension?

It certainly looks that way. It just seems odd that PNM & SJ dont appear to list replacement CV joints, which made me wonder if there was something odd around the Esprit versions

Esprit CV Joints appear to be 108mm diameter, 40mm deep, 28 Spline, 10mm bolts with 94mm PCD. (Originally manufactured in Germany by Lobro). These dimensions are the same as the Porsche '930' CV joint used on many 911 variants of a similar age. If the Porsche item is not suitable, I can only assume it does not articulate through enough degrees (doubtful) or perhaps the internal Spider somehow has a different offset, or there is something else I have missed? What's puzzling me is that if it was that straightforward, the Specialists would be selling them.... Had anyone else used the Porsche spec items as a replacement?

There are also 2 valves in the circuit, one is the ball bearing/weight and the other is in the accelerator pump casting beneath the carb. As Dave suggests, I'd make sure there are ultrasonically clean. There are also different spec springs for the diaphragms, so make sure both of these are the same. I also had variable results with replacement diaphragms, so try swapping these between carbs to see if you can isolate the problem.

I'm not completely convinced that the public ever bought into Wokeism? (Certainly not where I live...) It Seems to me there has been some sort of weird cultural revolution in the West, where the MSM & Public bodies (News, Advertising, Culture, Civil Service, Unions etc.) have become dominated by 'left thinking' folk, who have effectively bypassed democracy and unleashed their vision onto the rest of us. As a grassroots counterpoint, we are seeing the rise of 'the right' in European politics. I reckon that trend will continue.

If all your plugs are similar, sooty and you can smell fuel in the exhaust, I'd just turn your idle screws in by 1/2 turn for now. Colourtune will provide similar info visually, but not sure it will tell you too much more. @jonwat Seems to rate them highly?

Took the opportunity to add central locking to the rear hatch today, which I previously decided wasn't viable as the locking mechanism is within the lock itself. The way I've achieved this was to make a bracket with a pin that the spare actuator shoots in or out. The new bracket is mounted vertically on the existing right hand steel pressing that supports the hatch latch. (which is tucked out of the way under the rear lip of the hatch opening). On locking, the pin is extended and baulks the existing quadrant that unlatches the hatch (thereby stopping it from unlatching), when unlocked/retracted, the latch works as normal. This obviously requires that the key is left permanently unlocked (but can still be key locked for extra security).

Or maybe not... There seems to be a lot of misleading info in the online catalogues - some say Trapezoid, some say Round. Most illustrations are definitely round profile. But Mike's pictures above look suspiciously round. I'd be tempted to go back to a standard trapezoid belt, as the semi-automatic tensioner needs regular examination regardless of the belt

In older Lotus (and countless contemporary BL applications) Black is Earth, Brown is unfused permanent live, Pink is fused permanent live and white is ignition, so would be powered on by the ignition key. (Same as your Spitfire Stuart!)

And the prize goes to John - T104RB is a round tooth profile belt.

It would be pretty straightforward to put a dial gauge against both No1 in/ex valves to confirm what point they are each opening relative to TDC (Which should be the same for both). That will prove definitively if you have a sprocket misaligned, or something else is going on.